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What New Car Fees Should You Pay?

A guide to doc fees, plus other new and used car buying fees

You've skillfully negotiated the price of your new car, and with the help of the Edmunds article on negotiating car prices, you're confident that you're getting a good deal. But when you see the contract, the total is much higher than what you planned on paying. Then you see the problem: The contract contains fees you didn't know about. It leaves you wondering if these new-car fees really are legitimate.

To answer that question, Edmunds has created a chart with the most common fees you may encounter when you're buying a new car. In addition, we show how different states charge sales tax on trade-ins and rebates. If you've never used the chart before, it's worth reading about the process first. But you also skip right to the fees chart if you like.

What are some common car-buying fees?
How is the car sale taxed?
50-state list of dealer car buying fees
Are there other car-buying fees?
A final word on fees
FAQs

Check the Contract

Don't be caught off-guard by unexpected fees. Plan ahead by using our car-buyer fee chart.

What are some common car-buying fees?

There are three primary categories of typical new-car fees: vehicle registration fee, sales tax and a documentation fee, or "doc fee." Here's an explanation of each:

  • Vehicle registration fee: This is the amount the state charges to register a new vehicle, assign a title (legal proof of ownership) and cover the cost of license plates. The dealer provides this service for you, saving you a trip to the Department of Motor Vehicles. Usually, the more expensive the car is, or the more it weighs, the higher the registration fee. Some states are now charging higher registration fees for vehicles that average less than a predetermined mpg. Similarly, there are a number of states that charge more for an electric vehicle's registration. The higher costs are designed to offset the losses the state might receive from gasoline taxes since the EV would not use any fuel.
  • Sales tax: Sales tax on a new vehicle can take people by surprise. For example, a 9% sales tax on a $40,000 car is $3,600. Cities and counties frequently add their own tax on top of the state tax, so the amount you pay can vary within a state. We've listed the "maximum sales tax" rates below, but note that the sales tax on vehicles sometimes varies from the state's usual sales tax rate. You could pay more or less than what's shown here depending on your city, state or county.
  • Documentation fee: Dealerships charge car buyers a documentation fee, or "doc fee," to cover the cost of preparing and filing the sales contract and other paperwork. In some states, the doc fee is limited by state law. In other states, the doc fees are unregulated. Dealerships may sell a vehicle at an attractive price, but then add a high doc fee to the contract.
    Review the chart below to see how your state handles doc fees. If your state does not limit doc fees, find out early in the buying process what the dealership charges. Most dealerships will not negotiate the doc fee itself, but there may be a workaround. If the doc fee is substantially higher than your state's median, which is listed in the chart, negotiate the car's price more aggressively to offset the fee. And keep in mind that dealers also charge sales tax on the doc fee.
    The estimated median doc fees that dealers charge in each state are based on data Edmunds has collected from thousands of dealers nationwide. We've taken the data provided by those dealers, calculated a median fee (the middle of the range), and rounded it up or down to the nearest $5. When you go car shopping, these estimates are a valuable guide to determine if a dealership is charging close to the typical doc fee in your state.
    Remember that the doc fee is just one factor affecting your shopping experience and your choice of a dealership. For example, if a salesperson provides you with especially good customer service, then a higher doc fee might be acceptable. And if a dealership offers you a low purchase price, it might still result in a net savings, even after the higher doc fee.

See Edmunds pricing data

Has Your Car's Value Changed?

Used car values are constantly changing. Edmunds lets you track your vehicle's value over time so you can decide when to sell or trade in.

Price history graph example

How is the car sale taxed?

You probably expect to be assessed sales tax on the amount you pay for your new vehicle, but it might surprise you to learn that there are other tax issues that can also affect your out-the-door cost. Here is how different states handle taxes:

  • Trade-in: In many states, if you trade in your old vehicle, you can get a nice tax break. If there is a "Y" in the "Trade-in sales tax credit?" column for your state, you are only taxed on the difference between the new car and your trade-in.  For example, if your new car costs $40,000 and you are getting $15,000 for your trade-in, you will only be taxed on the difference, or $25,000, as opposed to the full price of the vehicle. Now, let's say the sales tax in your state is 10%; this would save you $1,500. If there is an "N" in the column, it means that you will pay tax on the full amount of your new-car purchase, and the trade-in has no bearing on the sales tax you are charged.
  • Rebates and incentives: Customer cash rebates and other incentives reduce the purchase price of the vehicle. But most states charge sales tax on the full purchase amount before the rebate is applied. For a $25,000 car with a $500 rebate, that reduces the sale price to $24,500. But in most cases, you'll pay tax on the full $25,000.

In the chart below, look at the column labeled "Are incentives taxed?" If there is a "Y" in this column, it means the sales tax is based on the car's price before rebates and incentives.

List of dealer car-buying fees by state

Alabama2%$584YYNo limit$799
Alaska0$115YNNo limit$200
Arizona11.2%$953YNNo limit$499
Arkansas12%$51YY$129$129
California10.75%$746NY$85$85
Colorado11.2%$946YYNo limit$599
Connecticut6.35%$311YYNo limit$499
Delaware0 (Delaware charges a 4.25% document fee based on the value of the vehicle when registered)$2,397YNNo limit$483
District of Columbia0$3,882NYNo limit$800
Florida8.5%$383YYNo limit$899
Georgia6.6%$38YYNo limit$698
Hawaii4.5%$148NYNo limit$245
Idaho9%$28YYNo limit$250
Illinois7%$311YY$367.70$358
Indiana7%$563YYNo limit$199
Iowa5%$572YN$180$180
Kansas11.5%$64YNNo limit$399
Kentucky6%$48NNNo limit$499
Louisiana12.95%$169YN$425$425
Maine5.5%$1,365YYNo limit$499
Maryland6%$277NY$500$800
Massachusetts6.25%$170YNNo limit$499
Michigan6%$356NY$260 or 5% of sale price, whichever is less$230
Minnesota6.5%$727YN$275*
*or an amount equal to 10% of the value of the sale

$350*
or an amount equal to 10% of the value of the sale

(limit was $275 prior to July 1, 2025)

Mississippi5%$1,917YYNo limit$375
Missouri12%$39YN$585$585
Montana0 (Local option tax of up to 0.7% of the car's value may be charged at registration in some counties)$241NNNo limit$299
Nebraska7.5%$1,032YNNo limit$299
Nevada8.38%$829YYNo limit$499
New Hampshire0$1,032YNNo limit$472
New Jersey8.63%$138YYNo limit$587
New Mexico4%$70YYNo limit$339
New York8.88%$150YY$175$75
North Carolina3%$113YYNo limit$749
North Dakota5%$88YYNo limit$199
Ohio8%$95YY$387 or 10% of sale price, whichever is lower$387
Oklahoma3.25%$119YNNo limit$499
Oregon0$249YN$115 or $150 if filed electronically$150
Pennsylvania8%$139YN$398 or $477 if filed electronically$394
Rhode Island7%$126YN$420$420
South Carolina6%$654YYNo limit$395
South Dakota4%$128YYNo limit$199
Tennessee7%$123YYNo limit$498
Texas6.25%$93YN$225$150
Utah9.05%$212YNNo limit$449
Vermont7%$128YNNo limit$399
Virginia4.15%$98NYNo limit$899
Washington6.8%$111YY$200$200
West Virginia6%$792YY$250$250
Wisconsin7.9%$269YYNo limit$279
Wyoming8%$1,040YNNo limit$288

Are there other car-buying fees?

Yes. Here are a few other car-buying fees that buyers should know about:

  • Uncommon dealer fees: Some dealers write additional fees into the contract and give them official-sounding names, such as "S&H," "PDI," "dealer prep" or even "shipping." Find out early what extra fees you will be charged and negotiate accordingly before you sign the contract. As with doc fees, you might decide to go along with added dealer fees if you're saving money on other aspects of the deal. When in doubt about an unknown fee or term, don't hesitate to ask the dealer finance person.
  • Destination fee: This is a fee that the manufacturer charges to transport a vehicle from the factory to the dealership. Getting the car to the buyer can include travel by ship, train and truck, as well as quality inspections to locate and repair any minor cosmetic issues that arise during transport. This charge is included in the car's MSRP and is typically not negotiable. The destination fee is a standard amount regardless of where you live, with the possible exception of Alaska and Hawaii, and you'll pay it even if you pick up your car at the factory.
  • Market adjustment. In times of limited inventory, you're likely to find an "addendum" sticker somewhere on a new car. This is the dealership essentially saying that the vehicle in question is in short supply, and it's raising the price to make some extra profit. This can range from $1,000 to upward of $50,000 on some highly anticipated vehicles. Note that you don't have to pay this fee, but at the same time, the dealer doesn't have to sell a vehicle to you at MSRP. This fee can be negotiated down in some cases, but it will differ based on the dealership. Similarly, there are a number of dealerships that do not believe in marking up a vehicle. Ask if a vehicle has been "marked up" before visiting the dealership, and be willing to expand your search if need be. For more information, read: "Should You Pay More Than MSRP for a Car?"
  • Dealer-installed options: On the same addendum sticker, you may also run into a list of accessories that the dealership added to make an extra profit. Common add-ons include anti-theft devices, nitrogen in tires, window tinting, chrome-plated wheels, all-season floor mats, splash guards, wheel locks, cargo trays and alarm systems. These aren't necessarily a "fee" per se, but they are something to be aware of that can add thousands to the price of a vehicle. Read "Negotiating a Dealer's New Car Add-Ons" for more information on how to handle these.
  • Advertising fees. Sometimes buyers look up invoice prices on Edmunds and find they don't match the invoice price given by a dealer. What's going on? There might be an advertising fee attached to the invoice price of the car. The advertising fee listed on a car's invoice is an actual charge made by the manufacturer to the dealer, and you should pay it. However, some dealers will tack on an extra "unofficial" advertising fee into the sales contract, perhaps claiming they are offsetting the cost of their own advertising efforts. If you encounter this type of fee, you can challenge it or negotiate a lower purchase price on the car to offset the charge.

A final word on fees

While this chart helps estimate fees, don't expect it to allow you to calculate your final cost to the penny. Registry fees, in particular, are tricky, but DMV websites in many states have calculators to help guide you. Additionally, many states have nominal charges (less than $40) under local environmental laws. Still, this chart will tell you roughly what to expect and help you budget accordingly.

Ultimately, you'll want to pay attention to three items when purchasing a car:

1. Anything with a dollar figure and wherever you need to sign. Especially items on the sales contract.
2. The deal's overall cost. Sometimes, we get stuck on reaching a desired monthly payment and overlook other aspects of the deal, such as the interest rate and loan term.
3. The federal Truth in Lending disclosure should be present in every car deal. It outlines the most important parts of the loan, such as the interest rate, total payments and the finance charge.

Finally, doc fees and sales taxes can change from year to year. Edmunds updates this information regularly, but please let us know if you find any information that's out-of-date.

FAQs

How do you calculate sales tax on a car?
Find out what the sales tax rate is in your area by running an online search with your city and state. The sales tax on the vehicle purchase is often based on where you live rather than where you're buying the vehicle. On a calculator, input the price, plus the sales tax number, then press the "%" button to get the sales tax. And when you hit the "=" button, you'll get the total with tax included. Or you can ask the salesperson to send you the "out-the-door" price breakdown, which should include sales tax, registration and other document fees.

How much is sales tax on a car?
Sales tax can vary by city, county or state. The sales tax on the vehicle purchase is often based on where you live rather than where you're buying the vehicle. If you have a trade-in vehicle, some states will only apply sales tax on the difference between the selling price and the trade-in's value. Refer to the chart above to see which states allow this.

How much is tax and title on a car?
This amount will vary based on the vehicle and where it was purchased. The easiest way to get this information is to request an "out-the-door" price breakdown from the dealer.

How do you calculate tax on a price?
Multiply the price of the item by the decimal figure of the percent. Let's say the sales tax for your city is 9% and the car costs $30,000. In this case, you multiply 30,000 by 0.09, which gives you a total of $2,700.

Are dealer fees negotiable?
Most dealer fees, such as the documentation fee, registration and sales tax, are not negotiable — which is why your efforts are better spent negotiating the selling price of the vehicle, where the dealer is far more likely to give you a discount.

How much should I pay for dealer fees?
These fees can vary based on location and the dealership you're buying from. Ask for a detailed pricing breakdown to get an accurate figure. If there's something you don't recognize, speak up before signing any paperwork. This article should help you get a basic idea of how much the fees might be.

How much are dealer fees on a used car?
It will likely have many of the same fees as a new car. You should expect to pay for sales tax, registration, title, documentation or dealer preparation fees, and other miscellaneous state fees.

Do I have to pay dealer doc fees?
While there aren't any laws we know of that say you have to pay the doc fee, the reality is most dealerships won't budge when it comes to these fees. Sure, you can raise enough of a fuss, but your energy should instead be focused on the selling price of the vehicle, which is more flexible and likely to yield greater savings.

Footnotes:

1. Maximum sales tax: Often, you pay a combination of state, county and local taxes. This is the estimated maximum tax you should be charged, depending on where you live.

2. Average DMV fees: This data is for new vehicles only. It includes unweighted state averages and is valid as of April 23, 2025.

3. Trade-in sales tax credit? A "Y" in this column means that you will pay sales tax only on the difference between your new car purchase and the value of your trade-in. An "N" in the column signifies that you will pay tax on the full amount of your new car purchase.

4. Are incentives taxed? A "Y" in this column indicates that the buyer will pay tax on the purchase price before the manufacturer rebate is applied.

5. Doc fee limits: This will tell you if your state regulates the documentation fee and the maximum allowed amount.

6. Median doc fee: This is the typical amount you can expect to pay for a dealer documentation fee. In this case, we've provided the median amount charged per state rather than the average because we think it gives a truer representation of what most buyers will pay. The data was collected on April 23, 2025.