Checklist
Now that you've done your initial research, it's time to go shopping. But before stepping foot on a lot, make sure to bring the following:
- A notebook.
- A pen.
- A calculator.
- A watch.
- Valid driver's license.
- Edmund's printout on the various used cars you're interested in.
- Pre-approved financing.
- Insurance cost information.
- Lots of patience.
The Test Drive
It is wise to make the test drive last longer than 15 minutes, so that the car is thoroughly heated up. In fact, stretch out the test drive for as long as possible. Drive around long enough, and most used-car dealers will even allow you to borrow the car for the night. In fact, we've been offered used cars for entire holiday weekends. Good used-car dealers usually want you to drive their products for a long period of time so that you become emotionally attached to them. On the other hand, a long test drive will also allow you to have the car thoroughly inspected by a mechanic, so don't feel guilty about taking a used car off the lot for a day or more. It's not a commitment; it's a test drive.
What to look for on the Test Drive: | What to look for on the Interior: | What to look for on the Exterior: |
Handling: [ ] City street handling [ ] Highway handling [ ] Two-lane road handling Suspension: [ ] Excessive body lean [ ] Body motion control Engine: [ ] Noise [ ] Acceleration [ ] Idle Steering: [ ] Ease of operation [ ] Vibration through steering wheel [ ] Road feel Transmission (Automatic): [ ] Smooth shifts [ ] Noise [ ] Cruise control Transmission (Manual): [ ] Clutch feel [ ] Smooth gear changes [ ] Cruise control Four-wheel drive: [ ] Easy to engage Brakes: [ ] Parking brake [ ] Brake pedal pressure [ ] Stopping gradually [ ] Stopping suddenly [ ] Antilock brakes | From the Driver's Seat: [ ] Seat comfort [ ] Headroom [ ] Instrument panel clarity [ ] Road visibility [ ] Steering wheel position [ ] Legroom [ ] Ease of control use [ ] Armrest height [ ] Headrest comfort [ ] Power accessories [ ] Mirror controls [ ] Radio, cassette or CD player and speakers [ ] Heater, air conditioner and ventilation [ ] Remote trunk or fuel-door releases [ ] Horn operation [ ] Interior dome light [ ] Wiper/washer system [ ] Glovebox [ ] Cupholders From the Passenger Seats: [ ] Ease of entry and exit [ ] Legroom [ ] Headroom [ ] Shoulder room [ ] Seat comfort [ ] Armrest height [ ] Headrest height [ ] Strap handles [ ] Reading lights [ ] Seatbelt operation [ ] Passenger airbag availability [ ] Folding rear seats [ ] Trunk pass-through [ ] Rear defogger [ ] Visor vanity lights Look for quality of: [ ] Upholstery [ ] Headliner [ ] Fit of interior panels [ ] Trim and moldings [ ] Dashboard [ ] Carpet and mats | Visual Inspection: [ ] Paint [ ] Rust spots [ ] Tire tread wear [ ] Smoke from the tailpipe [ ] Body-panel dents Use keys to check the following locks and latches: [ ] Doors [ ] Glovebox [ ] Anti-theft system [ ] Gas cap [ ] Trunk Check the trunk for: [ ] Key for Tire Locks [ ] Spare tire [ ] Jack [ ] Lug wrench [ ] Carpeting and trim [ ] Trunk light [ ] Secure latching Try these: [ ] Trunk release/catch [ ] Hood release/catch [ ] Childproof locks [ ] Headlights [ ] Parking lights [ ] Reverse lights [ ] Brake lights [ ] Taillights [ ] Hazard lights [ ] Turn signal lights [ ] License plate light |
Have the Car Checked Out by a Mechanic
NEVER - and we can't stress this enough, so we had to use the caps lock - buy a used vehicle without having an independent mechanic inspect it first. This will cost anywhere from $25 to $150, depending on the car, but it is a worthwhile investment. If you're shopping at a dealership, do not have the dealership's service department conduct this inspection; they're not exactly an unbiased third party. Tell the independent mechanic that you are considering purchasing the vehicle, and have them check everything out and print up a statement listing any problems they may find. If anything suspicious turns up, ask for a repair estimate. If the problem sounds too complex or too expensive to deal with, don't buy the car. If the problem is relatively minor but will still require attention, take the printed statement to the seller and use it as a bargaining chip for a better price. Otherwise, if everything checks out fine, it's time to move on to negotiations.
Emissions Test
No, you don't have to study all night for this one. In an attempt to clean up the air and lower pollution, most states have adopted emissions laws. If these regulations are in place where you live, your car will need to emit at or below a specified level of pollutants from the exhaust system. Always have the emissions tested before you agree to buy a used car. Certified testing centers usually charge no more than $20 for the test, and it could end up saving you hundreds of dollars in repair bills to have the test performed. A tailpipe does not have to emit visible smoke for it to fail an emissions test, so while making a visual inspection is advised, it is not the only precaution you should take.
Emissions tests may also warn you of impending costs. If a car is emitting borderline levels of hydrocarbons, the catalytic converter may soon need to be replaced. But by then, installing a new catalytic converter is probably only one small part of the solution: high emissions could be due to cracked or worn valve seals, malfunctioning fuel injectors, a bad oxygen sensor, clogged fuel filter, improper timing, or an indication that the previous owner simply didn't take good care of the car by performing regular oil changes. In the worst case, the engine might need to be completely overhauled. In any case, you don't want to buy a used car that will spend all of its time in the shop costing more money. If it can't pass the emissions test, the car cannot be licensed, and you cannot use it for transportation. If the dealership sold the car "as is," the repair work is your own responsibility. Emissions tests are a must.
