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Tech Center
A Shocking Expose: Your Car's Battery
By Scott Memmer Email
Automotive batteries come
in many shapes and sizes, but their operating principles are remarkably similar.
In this Tech Center installment, we'll look at the basic automotive battery.
Then we'll close by discussing ways to maintain your battery to ensure a long
life.
The modern automotive battery is a lead-acid storage design. In short, it's
an electrochemical device that converts chemical energy into electrical energy.
When the battery is placed under a load, such as when the ignition is switched
on, the device converts stored chemicals into electricity, and the current flows
through the wires to its destination.
A standard 12-volt, lead-acid battery is made up of six cells connected in series.
Each cell produces approximately two volts.
The cells are filled with an electrolyte. An electrolyte is an ionized bath
-- in this case, sulfuric acid (H2SO4) diluted with water
-- that generates an electrical current when called upon.
Each cell also contains plates (grids of active material), which are both positive
and negative. Typically, the positive plates contain lead dioxide (PbO2),
while the negative plates are composed of straight lead (Pb).
The plates are formed into a plate group, which holds a number of plates of
the same polarity (for instance, all positive or all negative). The like-charged
plates are welded to a post strap. The plate groups are then alternated within
the battery -- positive, negative, positive, negative. There is usually one
extra set of negative plates to balance the charge. To ensure that the different
plate groups don't touch each other, non-conductive sheets called separators
are inserted between them.
The battery case, which holds all these components, is made from molded polypropylene.
A maintenance-free battery, similar in design to a conventional automotive battery,
is really just a heavier-duty version of the same arrangement. Many of the components
have thicker construction, and different, more durable materials are typically
used. For example, the plate grids often contain calcium, cadmium or strontium,
to reduce gassing (which causes water loss) and self-discharge. This design
is called a lead-calcium battery. The heavier-duty parts ensure that fluid loss
is kept to a minimum and that components have a much longer life, making it
a closed system.
The charge of a conventional 12-volt automotive battery is actually 12.6 volts.
This can vary slightly, depending on the concentration of the electrolyte in
solution. Ideally, for optimum battery performance, the sulfuric acid/water
bath should have a specific gravity of 1.265 at 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Specific
gravity refers to the weight of a solution, with water having a reference rating
of 1.000. The electrolyte in an automotive battery is therefore just slightly
over one-and-a-quarter times the weight of regular water.
Battery power rating is measured by two standards. The more popular of these,
cold cranking power, determines the amount of current (amps) a battery delivers
for 30 seconds at zero degrees Fahrenheit while maintaining a minimum terminal
voltage of 7.2 volts. The higher the number, the stronger the battery. Think
of those old Diehard commercials, with all those non-Sears batteries giving
up the ghost in the cold and snow, and this will perhaps give you a visual image.
The second standard is called reserve capacity rating. This is a warm weather
rating (80 degrees Fahrenheit), which estimates the amount of time it takes
the terminal voltage of a fully charged battery to dip below 10.2 (or 1.7 volts
per cell) at a continuous discharge rate of 25 amps. The rating is expressed
in minutes. For example, a rating of 120 means the battery will run for two
hours (120 minutes) before ceasing to function.
A battery has two main cycles, the charge and discharge cycles.
In the discharge cycle, a chemical reaction takes place inside the battery in
which the lead (Pb) of the negative plates combines with the SO4
of the sulfuric acid to produce lead sulfate (PbSO4). In this cycle,
the electrolyte becomes weaker -- specific gravity lessens -- and the positive
and negative plates become more like one another. Since the voltage, or charge,
of a battery depends on the difference between the two plate materials and the
concentration of the electrolyte, and since this difference decreases during
discharging, the battery loses power. To anyone who has sat in a non-starting
car and cranked away as the battery grew weaker and weaker, this scenario will
be immediately recognizable.
In the charge cycle, the reverse is true. Electrical current, generated by the
car's alternator, passes through the plates, forcing SO4 back into
the electrolyte bath and elevating specific gravity. Voltage increases.
Safety Precautions
Sulfuric acid is highly caustic. Caution should used when dealing with electrolyte
or automotive batteries. Sulfuric acid can burn clothing and the skin and even
cause blindness. There is even a slight danger of explosion. Most battery professionals
wear gloves and goggles or a face shield when working.
If for some reason electrolyte gets on your clothes or body, it should immediately
be neutralized with a solution of baking soda and water. When working on a battery
or handling sulfuric acid, here are some safety tips:
- Always wear goggles or
a face shield.
- Use a lead-lined or nonmetallic
container to hold electrolyte.
- Always pour acid slowly
into water, not water into acid.
- Stir as you add small
amounts of acid.
- Never lean over a battery
when charging, testing, or jump-starting an engine.
- Always disconnect the
negative cable first and reconnect it last.
- Charge batteries only
in well-ventilated areas.
- Never charge or jump-start
a frozen battery; let it warm to at least 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
Speaking of charging, there
are several different methods used to recharge a depleted battery. The most gentle
of these is called trickle-charging. Other methods include quick-charging and
slow-charging. See your battery's owner's manual to decide which method may work
best for your situation, or talk to your mechanic.
One advantage of a manual transmission is the ability to start a vehicle with
a depleted battery. If the charging system (alternator and voltage regulator)
are in proper working condition, simply push-start the car and kick it over, then
drive long enough to let the charging system do its work. A good half-hour drive
should give it a solid charge.
Here are a few tips to quickly restore a battery using this method.
- Drive at a constant
speed (highway driving) versus stop-and go (city driving). This will give
the alternator an opportunity to charge more evenly.
- Turn off all accessories
(radio, air conditioner, etc.).
- If possible, drive during
the day. Even headlights use power. Having them off increases the amount of
electricity going to the battery.
Remember, this does not replace
charging the battery. A car's alternator is not designed to fully restore a depleted
battery, but rather to maintain a healthy one. As soon as possible, put your battery
on a battery charger such as the Battery Tender, and a give it a full charge for
a day or two.
http://www.batterytender.com/
If you have an automatic transmission,
you can jump-start the car instead. If the charging system is in proper working
condition, it will recharge quickly. Follow the same steps as above to ensure
that the car won't need another jump, then, as soon as possible, have the battery
fully charged by a mechanic or by yourself if you own a high-quality battery charger
.
We've included an Edmunds.com link below as a refresher course on jump-starting.
How
To: Jump-Start
Another tip: If parking a car
for long periods of time (weeks or months), it's best to disconnect the battery
to prevent discharging. Use a crescent or open-ended wrench to loosen the strap
from the negative terminal on the battery, then remove the connector. Make sure
the connector is tucked away from the terminal, where it cannot come into contact
with the post.
Battery Maintenance
We promised a few maintenance tips on standard-duty batteries.
- Check the water level
every couple of months. It should be just touching the bottom of the refill
hole.
- Refill the battery, when
needed, with distilled water. Don't use tap water, which produces corrosion
on the terminals.
- Don't overfill the cells.
Just to the bottom of the refill hole is perfect.
The following tips apply to
all batteries, including maintenance-free.
- To ensure good connectivity,
clean the terminals periodically with a wire brush.
- When removing a connector
from a terminal, twist it from side to side and pull gently upward. Refrain
from excessive tugging or prying.
- When reconnecting a connector
to a terminal, seat it down firmly on the post. A few gentle whacks from a
rubber mallet will do it. Don't overtighten and strip the nut.
- After securing the connector,
coat the whole post with high-temperature grease. This will reduce corrosion
and rust.
- If you keep having electrical
problems (battery dies, car won't start, power is intermittent or weak), it's
not necessarily the battery. It could be in the charging system, normally
either a bad alternator or voltage regulator. A mechanic can test the system
to isolate the problem.
These general maintenance tips
will extend the life of your battery.
One final note. News has come to light recently that automotive manufacturers
are experimenting with 36-volt batteries in prototype cars. Because of the increasing
number of electrical gadgets finding their way into modern vehicles, it's likely
we'll be seeing a more advanced electrical system in coming years.
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