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How To
How To Choose Tires and Wheels
By Miles Cook Email
We know you've heard it before,
but it's critical enough to bear repeating. It's also a bit daunting, too, that
the tires on a vehicle are the one single link to the road surface. Think about
that for a moment. You can have the most powerful engine, the most sophisticated
transmission, the most elaborate super-trick suspension, and every other automotive
widget known to mankind, but it all ain't worth a tinker's damn if the tires (and
wheels) are subpar. In a way, it's really a bit strange but that's just how the
operation of the automobile is.
Luckily, after examining the facts in the above-noted fashion, you can rest assured
that tire technology is at an all-time high and it keeps getting better. In fact,
it's actually quite amazing that while crummy tires can hurt a great car, great
tires can do wonders for a less-than-fantastic car. In other words, there are
some instances where tire technology is way beyond many of the cars on the road.
The technology that makes wheels and tires as good as they are is also what can
make the subject quite intimidating. Our purpose here is to try and put a finer
point on some of the basics of wheels and tires, and how to select them, too.
Think of it as a wheel-and-tire primer that will provide you with some ground-floor
facts when it comes time to make a replacement tire purchase or a wheel-and-tire
upgrade.
For starters, there's tons of information on the sidewall of any tire and we cover
that thoroughly in Sidewall
Graffiti. There you'll find the full scoop on exactly what all the numbers
mean.
If you've bought a vehicle new and come to the point where you need to replace
the tires, there are several ways to go. Of course the easy way is get the exact
size and make that came on the vehicle when it was new. Beyond that, you might
consider going to a better quality tire or one that improves dry and/or wet handling
that's still the same size as the OE tire. The next step would be to switch to
a different wheel and the reasons for doing that are numerous. Some people merely
want a different look for the wheel while using the same tires that came on the
original wheels. While this might be OK if you want to make an appearance change
right away, we think it's better to wait until you need new tires anyway, then
upgrade to a larger diameter wheel and tire all at once.
Known as the plus sizing concept, this basically means that if you have a 15-inch
wheel, plus one would be a 16-inch wheel and plus two would be a 17-inch wheel.
But before we get further into wheels, we want to shed some light on what you
should know when walking into a tire store to buy tires for your existing wheels.
And, of course, this info also applies when you're doing a wheel upgrade, as well.
Choosing the tire that's right for you involves numerous considerations. But to
make the process less scary, keep these two simple guidelines in mind when considering
tires. First, know your expected needs and driving uses. This consideration is
important to overall driving enjoyment and a well-run tire shop will help you
determine your tire needs before you lay down any green. But be sure that you
and the salesperson communicate accurately as to your true requirements. Second,
find a source or store that you trust enough to recommend the type of tire that
fits your needs. Remember, the salespeople don't know your needs, you have to
tell them. If they're good, they'll ask you the right questions to come up with
the right tire. For example, they'll know to factor in tread life, ride and handling,
and driving conditions to help you determine which of these parameters are most
important to you.
You might be wondering what some of the questions could be. Here's a list of what
you should think about before entering a tire store.
- Tread life considerations:
What's your idea of how long a set of tires should last? Keep in mind that
in some instances, a tire's wear rating is done through manufacturer testing
and may not be the most accurate representation of a tire's true life expectancy.
One way to get a handle on a tire's projected life expectancy (besides what
they're warranted for, say, 40,000 miles for example) is to look at part of
the UTQG (Uniform Tire Quality Grading) rating. The U.S. Department of Transportation
requires each manufacturer to grade its tires under the UTQG labeling system
and establish ratings for tread wear, traction and temperature resistance.
These tests are conducted independently by each manufacturer following government
guidelines to assign values that represent a comparison between the tested
tire and a control tire. While traction and temperature resistance ratings
are specific performance levels, the tread wear ratings are assigned by the
manufacturers following field testing and are most accurate when comparing
tires of the same brand. Tread wear receives a comparative rating based on
wear rate of the tire in field testing following a government specified course.
For example, a tire grade of 150 wears 50 percent longer than a tire graded
100. Actual performance of the tire can vary significantly depending on conditions,
but the tire's UTQG tread life number can help you get in the ballpark as
to how long a tire will really last.
- Wet weather requirements:
Most of us live in a climate where inclement weather is a factor at least
part of the time. Clearly if you live in, say, Washington or Oregon, you'll
want to look more closely at a capable wet-weather tire than if you're in
Arizona or Nevada. For those of you in Snow Belt states, some kind of four-season
type of tire will be the minimum you should consider if not an all-out snow
tire for the winter that you swap for standard tires in the milder months.
- Speed rating: Even in
the plains and Western states like South Dakota, Nebraska, Idaho, Montana,
New Mexico, Colorado, Wyoming, Utah, and Nevada where the rural interstate
speed limit is 75 mph, how often do you think you're going to need a tire
that's speed rated for anything over 150 mph? Be honest and knock down your
required speed rating to, say, and H-speed rated tire that's still good for
130 mph. You'll pay less and likely not notice the difference in the real
world. For reference, the most common speed ratings you'll come across on
the majority of tires are shown in the chart below. Speed ratings signify
the safe top speed of a tire under ideal conditions. For just about any street
car, a V-rated tire will be more than adequate, unless the car will actually
go faster than 150 mph. Usually, most ultra-high performance handling tires
have a speed rating of at least V, so while you might want the ultimate handling
of that type of tire, be aware that part of what you're paying for (the speed
rating) is something you'll never use. For those who want tires that make
a car really stick in the twisties, it ends up that many get the speed rating
anyway, even though they don't need it. That's not a bad thing, but also be
aware that tires with higher speed ratings are usually made from a softer
rubber compound and generally will have shorter UTQG tread life ratings and,
furthermore, will not actually last as long in the real world.
Q= 99 mph
S= 112 mph
T= 118 mph
U= 124 mph
H= 130 mph
V= up to 149 mph
Z= 149 mph and above
W= 168 mph
Y= 186 mph
- Ride Quality: A low-profile
tire such as a 50 or a 40-series looks great, but can be harsh over bumps
or potholes when compared to a 55 or 60. In general, a lower profile tire
also exposes the wheel to damage more easily. Lower profile tires also have
stiffer sidewalls, which improves handling but increases rides harshness.
It's all about compromise and there's no such thing as a free lunch.
- Noise: Some tread designs
are noisier than others and it varies significantly between tire brands and
tread designs. If most of your driving is on lower-speed city streets, then
this won't be much of a factor. But for highway driving, you'll want to consider
your options, especially if you're driving an SUV on pavement most of the
time. A good salesperson will be able to tell you which tires are quieter
among those you're considering; even those of the same make that are in a
different line can vary in road noise.
That's the basics on tires,
now we'll move on to wheels. Tires wear out, but wheels don't, so why would
you want to change wheels? For many there's no reason to, especially when you
look at some of the very attractive wheels that come on many of today's cars
as original equipment. The way we see it, why would you bother to change wheels
on such cars as a Corvette C6, late-model Mustang GT or Shelby GT500, or the 17-inch
or 18-inch sport package wheels that come on the current 3 series BMW?
But, of course, some cars have hokey wheels that need to be turned into flowerpots.
As such, one of the two main reasons most people consider a wheel change is
simply for looks. A better-looking wheel makes a world of difference on many
cars and trucks.
Besides appearance, the plus concept is a key reason to switch wheels. Plus
sizing your wheels and tires is the best way to improve both the performance
and appearance of your vehicle. By using a larger diameter wheel with a lower
profile tire it's possible to properly maintain the overall diameter of the
tire, keeping odometer and speedometer changes negligible. By using a tire with
a shorter sidewall, you gain quickness in steering response and better lateral
stability. The visual appeal is obvious; most wheels look better than the sidewall
of the tire, so the more wheel and less sidewall there is, the better it looks.
The idea of plus sizing is illustrated in the photos that accompany this story.
Pretend that the four wheels we show you are for the same car, rather than the
Focus, Miata, and two 3 Series BMWs they're actually mounted on. Two of the
wheels (the Miata and Focus) are 15 inches in diameter, while the BMW 323iT
(a wagon) and 328i have 16- and 17-inch wheels. If a car has a 15-inch wheel,
then upgrading to a 16-inch wheel would be plus one and a 17-inch wheel would
be plus two. You could also say that if a car has a 17-inch wheel (such as many
performance cars do) then going to an 18-inch wheel and tire would be a plus
one. If the car has 15-inch wheels, the 18s would be a plus three.
Besides plus sizing, other factors should be considered before shelling out
big bucks for wheels. The benefits of a good-quality alloy wheel are numerous.
And, of course, many cars come with them as factory original equipment. Either
way, you end up with reduced unsprung weight compared to steel wheels. This
is a factor affecting a vehicle's road holding ability. Unsprung weight is the
portion of a vehicle that's not supported by the suspension (i.e. wheels, tires
and brakes) and therefore is most susceptible to road shock and cornering forces.
By reducing unsprung weight, alloy wheels provide more precise steering input
and improved cornering characteristics. The added strength of a quality alloy
wheel can also reduce tire deflection in cornering. This is particularly critical
in a car equipped with high performance tires where lateral forces may approach
1.0g. Better brake cooling is another benefit. The metals in alloy wheels are
excellent conductors of heat and improve heat dissipation from the brakes. The
risk of brake fade is also reduced under more demanding conditions such as spirited
driving on a twisty mountain road. Additionally, alloy wheels can be designed
to allow cool air to flow over the brake calipers and rotors. The lighter rotational
weight of alloy wheels can even provide a slight increase in acceleration and
fuel economy.
These days it's tough to buy truly bad wheels and tires. While some wheels are
lower quality than others, as is also the case with tires, there are so many
good ones out there that you will usually have several possibilities from which
to choose. As we've said here, be straightforward with what you really need
and factor it in with that ever-present budget consideration and you'll be well
grounded when it comes to keeping your car or truck on the ground.
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