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Re: Altima 2.5S with SL package [tltc]
by sincraft on Wed Apr 09 12:45:01 PDT 2008
If you get that deal, please come back and post. I highly doubt you will however as that number is not a number that you would see on a total. I've had TWO dealers write me slips with prices saying OTD with prices. When I inquired about fees etc - they of course failed to mention that they do not quote prices with the tax, title etc as they are always added at the end to every car. All dealers do it in my area. So beware. I, located in Pittsburgh, PA, am having a hard time believing some of the prices posted on here. In fact, I started calling different states. WV, OH, NY, NJ, MD, NC, SC, IL for pricing. I've gotten prices from dealers in all of those states except SC hasn't gotten back to me yet. The best I've done is $500 under invoice for a 2.5 SL. BUT they all have much higher doc fees than PA which is $55. I've dealt with some real assholes recently in other states. I've had so many tell me that I am wasting their time after initially the salesperson agreeing to a below invoice price. Then their manager talks to me to work the deal and tells me I'm wasting their time and mine. None of them believe the $200 under invoice deal I currently have on the table.
Re: hey guys [scrugh_77]
by dat2 on Mon Jul 30 15:28:53 PDT 2007
If you buy a base model, the biggest problem is the lack of a limited slip differential which is essential for this car. Also you don't get cruise control which is a big problem for most people. If you don't need cruise, and plan to upgrade to an aftermarket limited slip diff (like the NISMO unit), then go for the base model since it is a couple grand cheaper than the next step up model. There is about 2 grand in markup on the base model, so you probably can't get more than that off the MSRP, while models like the touring or higher up have 3 grand or more markup, so there is a little more haggling involved. Anyway, for non-daily use, a base model with upgraded limited slip would be a great toy. Just be very careful on the street without stability control. If you punch the gas mid corner the rear will step out and you need to know how to control that. Most of the aftermarket wheels are crap for this car. You don't want to get wheels that are even heavier than stock because it will affect the balance and performance of this sports car. If you want to upgrade the wheels you should go with a forged wheel like NISMO or others. These are very expensive. The stock wheels are really pretty nice, but they weigh about 26 lbs, if you can upgrade to some lighter forged rims you will improve accel and overall performance. Also don't go with an extremely wide rear tire or you will increase understeer, unless you correct with a thicker rear sway bar. There is just a little bit of understeer built in from the factory, it's just right for most people, but you definitely don't want to increase this especially for track use! Good luck with your purchase. The 07 model has a significantly upgraded engine, so try to swing for the 07 models. To get a good baseline when shopping for a new model, go to carmax.com and check out the price of their new 350Zs at the Nissan store in Baltimore. You will be hard pressed to beat these prices for new models. However for a used 350, you want to try to get a better price than the used carmax prices. That would be a goal for used 350 shopping.
opinions on 07 model
by dat2 on Thu Mar 08 00:05:49 PST 2007
Can anyone give a rundown of their opinion on the chgs to the new model? How is the extra power and the other revisions? Is it worth upgrading from an 05 model if you get a good trade-in value? I like the chgs such as the extra power and the now 1000 extra revs. At least on paper it all sounds great. Any ideas what the 08 models will be like? Maybe the new 3.7 engine (370Z)? :confuse:
Re: 2002 Maxima SE with 100K -- What's it worth? [krony]
by dat2 on Thu Jan 11 21:57:56 PST 2007
maybe good you passed on it, sounds like it may have had some issues.
Re: 2005 Nissan 350Z Touring - good deal? [rtong]
by dat2 on Thu Jan 11 21:42:02 PST 2007
Sounds like a pretty good price. Just check the values on edmunds, if it's anywhere close to the trade-in price on edmunds then it's a great price. Check the rear tires before you buy it, if they are completely bald that's a clear indication of a lot of hard launches...though by that mileage they will have a lot of wear under normal conditions.
Re: 2002 Maxima SE with 100K -- What's it worth? [krony]
by dat2 on Sat Dec 30 21:50:04 PST 2006
Why you so concerned about reliability? I think a used Max is a very reliable car if it's maintained properly. You should expect to spend a few hundred dollars a few times a year to replace sensors, plus the usual wear items. The clutch should be good for another 50k unless it was abused. You can tell a lot about the car during a test drive, especially the way the shifter and clutch interact, whether or not it's been abused. This should be a really sweet car to drive! Remember that it cost over 30g new, too.

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