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High Point, NC Mazda Car Consumer Discussions

Re: Yes.... [unkownuser]

by nsbio1 on Sun Jan 13 14:42:40 PST 2008

You are right - I meant OTD price in the same state. In practice, however, it is a little hard to get the price of the car excluding only the tax - true OTD price is the next best practical option. On the other hand, trade-in should be a separate transaction, negotiated separately from the car purchase (OTD) price. For example, I paid $16976 OTD for 2008 Mazda3i Touring 5sp ABS, cargo net, wheel locks (MSRP $17375) in NC. The OTD price includes 3%NC tax, title,registration, $444 dealer doc fee (high, but the overall price of the car was reasonable, so I did not negotiate). From that price, they subtracted $100 for my 96 Protege with broken engine and 201 K Miles on it.

Re: I want a Mazda 5!!! [craigmri]

by fowler3 on Wed Sep 27 22:30:49 PDT 2006

Craig: You should read Edmunds.com fair price quote and check other sources online like Kelly Blue Book for what they think is fair --- and then make the dealer an OUT THE DOOR offer which INCLUDES the TTL. Haggling over just the new car price and your trade-in value doesn't get you the lowest price. Know what the invoice price is and the dealer costs of the options on the car and to be installed by them later. Also be careful about the doc fees, as high as $450, and other things they sneak in. Never buy paint protector scams. If they won't knock that off go elsewhere. All buyers do have to pay the advertising fee since Mazda doesn't re-imbuse dealers. But don't make a rediculous offer no one would accept. When you get the survey, mentioned on this forum, read it carefully and answer honestly, it is IMPORTANT for the dealer to get good reports. Bad surveys lower the number of cars he can order later. Ignore ignorant salesmen who send bad emails. The salesman turnovers are high and he probably won't be there when you go in for service. It isn't the dealer attacking you it's a disgruntled salesman who should be working in Sears bedding department.

Re: Is "Washington DC Assessment fe" really "profit"? [vancewade]

by jfritsch on Wed Jul 19 13:01:08 PDT 2006

(somehow that got screwed up)... Vance- I get 19,900 for the car and dest.(MSRP?) and your are paying 21000 ...over msrp? or even invoice? This seems way too high unless I am missing something and not good. Keep it simple MSRP,invoice (if you know it) and then offer(s) with all fees. Congrats on being froggy and faxing up to 400mi? round trip. Putting 10 -20 dealerships in a competitive bidding situation is the best way to get the lowest price on any commodity. Which is what new cars are. You should get 50 60% response rate Negotiating by phone # and talking to the Sales or Fleet Manager (not internet sales manager) 2-3 of them will prove to be the best and most eager. Emphasize to your responses you are getting bids from 10+ dealers and you are definitely buying before the month ends. You look forward to doing business with them. If they equivocate tell them you will definitely be buying by the end of the month and something like "Give me your best ""Im a sales manager who wants to book a low profit deal at the end of the month"" shot." Numerous may say what a waste of time it is.... they all pay the same price... etc. As a general rule its better to get the names of the sales/fleet managers and direct your fax directly to them. Then negotiate by phone, not email. They may handle it personally taking a commission to a salesperson off the table if possible (good for you) or delegate it. Get the number to their personal fax line or the machine closest to them (if it differs from the fax #on the website or dealer locator) Narrowing it down to the best 2 or so dealers before you even walk into a dealership is smart. In any event regardless of fees , if you find for example a NC dealer who bids 18,000 with all fees, and another who bids 18200 with all fees A is greater than B and the choice is simple, unless we have to drive 400mi to save $200... not cool. Getting the total emphasizing with ALL fees (itemized) and everything is good anyway lest we drive 200 mi and get a nasty $500 "Dealers daughter needs expensive dentalwork fee" or such by the F&I guy who knows you drove a long way and trys a fast one. Rare but not so rare either. DC assessment fees Ad fees Dealers Horsetrack losses fees Dealers Wife's restauraunt is going under fees Are all legal and legit (as long as they aren't discriminatory based on race religion or sex) They may be itemized, included in his offer hidden or non existent. If they want to compete they will drop the fees or lower the price and keep the fees. It doesn't matter What matters is lowest price OTD. (sales tax or hwy tax from your state is a constant) Bid one off the other and see if any are especially eager the last 4 days of the month with any callbacks. If one dealer proposes a 18000 offer + 600 in processing and title fees etc, this is obviously superior to a 18900 offer with no fees for the same car. (To get silly a 10,000 offer with $8100 in fees is the best to demonstrate a point) IF you truly get a standout deal far away and your requirements arent exacting obviously offer your business to get some of the locals to meet or beat it. Emphasize they will be stop one for all service (where most dealership profits are anyway) and to all they will get the highest customer satisfaction score for any surveys on this purchase you can provide. (Don't underestimate this) When you finally walk in to the 1-2 standouts don't be afraid to walk out and sleep on it. If they are close by. Especially if we have a few days left in the month (Anyone responsible spending a lot of money would do so no? , or "that Focus is a helluva lot cheaper and may meet my needs" )If they say the offer will vaporize, good for this minute only if you walk out, give a amused smile as you graduated kiddiegarten long ago) You may get a cell call within the next few days with a lower bid for your business, or a salesman stopping you in the parking lot with a lower offer. And you can always walk right back in and accept immediately or in a day or two. As long as its before "witching hour " (end of month). The mazda 3 sedan seems to be more popular than the hatch, and 1000 under invoice or more seems to be possible (especially the hatch). Many times dealers will let a few go for a no or low profit deal (or even a loss?) to savvy negotiators towards the end of the month of a popular seller to prove sales power and guarantee a continuing or increasing allotment of a popular seller. Good business sense. Numerous other reasons exist. Your canvassing a wide number helps you find the dealer(S) in such situations if they exist that month. Keep in mind that despite invoice, Msrp and advertised dealer inscentives being public, you have no idea what their profit is on a machine. In the last decade an increasing amount of profit on new cars has been in the form of unadvertised inscentives usually based on sales performance and customer satisfaction indexes. More than 70% of dealer profits come from used cars and the service dept. I sold cars for a number of years, and many times found myself responding to customer objections with (as I was trained) "We gotta make something on this". If I had a $20 bill for every time I made this remark I'd be retired, whether I grossed $50 or $3000 on the deal, depending on how I read the customer. Regards --jjf Just sent out faxed requests for bids to dealers a couple hundred miles in every direction from our home in North Carolina. Got what I think is a good bid from a Maryland dealer (details below, if anyone wants to analyze). But it includes a $240 "Washington D.C. Assessment fee" in addition to the $99 processing fee (which I know MD dealers charge). I can find no online reference to any such legitimate fee. In addition, I can't imagine why I'd have to pay anything to the District of Columbia when I'm buying a car in Maryland and when I live in North Carolina. I'd love to get everyone's feedback on whether this is legit. Here's the deal: 5-door, Mazda3 S-GT base price: $18,135 Sunroof/Bose/6CD bundle: $1,148 Wheel locks: $32 Destination: $560 Tag and title: $83 (including $15 MD temp. license so I can drive it back to N.C.) Processing: $99 Washington D.C. Assessment: $240 N.C. Highway use tax (this is def. legit; it's instead of sales tax): $632.07 Total out-the-door: $21,784.07 OTD minus tax, tag, title= $21,069 Thanks in advance for your insights. --Vance

Re: Is "Washington DC Assessment fee" really "profit"? [vancewade]

by jfritsch on Wed Jul 19 12:58:25 PDT 2006

Vance- I get 19,900 for the car and dest.(MSRP?) and your are paying 21000 ...over msrp? or even invoice? This seems way too high unless I am missing something and not good. Keep it simple MSRP,invoice (if you know it) and then offer(s) with all fees. Congrats on being froggy and faxing up to 400mi? round trip. Putting 10 -20 dealerships in a competitive bidding situation is the best way to get the lowest price on any commodity. Which is what new cars are. You should get 50 60% response rate Negotiating by phone # and talking to the Sales or Fleet Manager (not internet sales manager) 2-3 of them will prove to be the best and most eager. Emphasize to your responses you are getting bids from 10+ dealers and you are definitely buying before the month ends. You look forward to doing business with them. If they equivocate tell them you will definitely be buying by the end of the month and something like "Give me your best ""Im a sales manager who wants to book a low profit deal at the end of the month"" shot." Numerous may say what a waste of time it is.... they all pay the same price... etc. As a general rule its better to get the names of the sales/fleet managers and direct your fax directly to them. Then negotiate by phone, not email. They may handle it personally taking a commission to a salesperson off the table if possible (good for you) or delegate it. Get the number to their personal fax line or the machine closest to them (if it differs from the fax #on the website or dealer locator) Narrowing it down to the best 2 or so dealers before you even walk into a dealership is smart. In any event regardless of fees , if you find for example a NC dealer who bids 18,000 with all fees, and another who bids 18200 with all fees A1000 under invoice or more seems to be possible (especially the hatch). Many times dealers will let a few go for a no or low profit deal (or even a loss?) to savvy negotiators towards the end of the month of a popular seller to prove sales power and guarantee a continuing or increasing allotment of a popular seller. Good business sense. Numerous other reasons exist. Your canvassing a wide number helps you find the dealer(S) in such situations if they exist that month. Keep in mind that despite invoice, Msrp and advertised dealer inscentives being public, you have no idea what their profit is on a machine. In the last decade an increasing amount of profit on new cars has been in the form of unadvertised inscentives usually based on sales performance and customer satisfaction indexes. More than 70% of dealer profits come from used cars and the service dept. I sold cars for a number of years, and many times found myself responding to customer objections with (as I was trained) "We gotta make something on this". If I had a $20 bill for every time I made this remark I'd be retired, whether I grossed $50 or $3000 on the deal, depending on how I read the customer. Regards --jjf Just sent out faxed requests for bids to dealers a couple hundred miles in every direction from our home in North Carolina. Got what I think is a good bid from a Maryland dealer (details below, if anyone wants to analyze). But it includes a $240 "Washington D.C. Assessment fee" in addition to the $99 processing fee (which I know MD dealers charge). I can find no online reference to any such legitimate fee. In addition, I can't imagine why I'd have to pay anything to the District of Columbia when I'm buying a car in Maryland and when I live in North Carolina. I'd love to get everyone's feedback on whether this is legit. Here's the deal: 5-door, Mazda3 S-GT base price: $18,135 Sunroof/Bose/6CD bundle: $1,148 Wheel locks: $32 Destination: $560 Tag and title: $83 (including $15 MD temp. license so I can drive it back to N.C.) Processing: $99 Washington D.C. Assessment: $240 N.C. Highway use tax (this is def. legit; it's instead of sales tax): $632.07 Total out-the-door: $21,784.07 OTD minus tax, tag, title= $21,069 Thanks in advance for your insights. --Vance

Re: wrong forum for that question [kirstie_h]

by slowracin on Mon Nov 22 19:54:24 PST 2004

Awww, come on gang! Can't all of you techie types out there read a little REAL page in the 2005 Mazda 3 propaganda brochure? Well gee, I hate to disagree (:, but I think this is the right forum, 'cause I want to buy a hatchback, and all I am asking is if anyone knows what color Carbon Gray Mica is -- Its right there in the back page of the folder! See?!??!?! ... it says so! Did'jya find it yet?? It says Special Edition with a Bose and 7 speakers including powered sub woofers, EQ and an in dash 6CD changer -- leather BROWN or black interior, heated front seats, rain-sensing wipers, auto headlights, pollen filter (LED taillights on the 5 door) -- for the 4 door S OR the 5 door! So... any one have an idea? The local dealer says his Regional contact in and around the western NC flatlands sure don't know -- all I get is a ... " ...well, it must be a new name for Titanium Gray," or... "...about the same color as Titanium Gray," or other such helpful, deeply penetrating insight. Its enough to make me go get a 5-speed Altima or a Jetta TDI or something... The color strip in the brochure, I swear, is the SAME color as Black Mica! The Mazda.Com site doesn't say near enough, at least when I last checked it, or even had anything on the 2005s. I get more information from the translated German or Japanese based web sites than I do from the North American site (sorry, but true -- like the Turbo Diesel powered Mazda I read about....hmmm? If gas prices keep hitting the roof, 48 MPG sounds awfully good for a torquy little clean burning diesel) So what's the real deal? I DO plan on buying a manual hatchback with most of the goodies -- who needs the high dollar exterior appearance package on the hatchback or the navigation package -- this car is gonna be fun gettin' lost in! I have just about settled on a Strato Blue or Black Mica with leather, the Xenon package, the ABS package, and the Moonroof/CD changer package, depending on which one shows up first, but I am very curious about this new color. I may even lose out and get with a Winning Blue the dealer says he has located for me, but I might regret my current, highly impatient salivating if the Carbon comes out and it is THE color I like! If the Carbon "pops" like the Velocity Red, but has a tint about the same color as the Mazda 6, then I want it! So please, all you great gurus that might have "deeper knowledge," take pity on this old man and let me know before I go nuts...!!

carliker...charvel6

by brydge on Tue Feb 03 10:01:32 PST 2004

I did tell them I was going to lease upfront, but told them I didn't want to discuss lease payments or any other lease details until I negotiated the price of the car. To my surprise, I got many very aggressive offers immediately and used took those to my local dealers and found two that were willing to play ball, then went back and forth between those two. I shopped my trade-in (99 Miata) to 5 dealers (4 mazda, 1 carmax) and all but one were within a couple hundred bucks. Obviously, got less than selling it privately, but it was due for tires, brakes, and had been in a minor accident, so it was work it for me not to have to deal with any of that. I shopped both a standard lease and a one-pay lease (discount back 36 future payments and pay upfront). I got a higher residual and a better money factor by doing the one-pay, and I had the cash available. I also saved significantly on tax (7% a month on top of the lease payments in my county in GA). I don't have the money factor in front of me but the standard lease was .00236, and I got a litter better than that. Total lease payments equated to roughly $369 if I divide cash out of pocket by 36 months. I saw money factors as low as .00139 (Charlotte, NC) and as high as .00336 (Atlanta). I saw residuals vary from 56% to 58% on standard leases in the Southeast, but most were at 56% or 57% for the standard lease. My one-pay lease ended up being with Mazda Credit, though I know US Bank had some aggressive terms, as well. Most importantly, I love this car...the drive, the style, the combination of power, comfort and handling. I'll love it even more with the 6-disc, rotary accents and fender strakes; which get installed this weekend.

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