Bought it new in May '99. Since then have put 213,000 miles on it. Have had a few repairs along the way. At 66K miles, I replaced the battery, otherwise the first major service (besides routine) was at 72K miles; a check engine light required a $170 meter. Had all the struts replaced at 96K miles. I switched to synthetic oil at 97K miles. At 100K, the engine dying while trying to start required a $270 IAC valve and a $265 something called "Assy, Idle Spe." At 123K, needed new rear brakes. At 135K miles, spent $900, because it needed a new timing belt, all (3) engine drive belts, water pump and 3 light bulb (some of the bulbs can be replaced by anyone and a few are hard to access). At 141K, had to replace the air fuel sensor replace battery at that time also). At 147K, a passenger side CV joint was noted to be damaged. At 166K, the right front door lock actuator was replaced. At 180K, another 90K service was done and in addition an exhaust system gasket leak was repaired, a transmission pan gasket was leaking and replaced, and the power steering rack & pinion unit was leaking and was replaced (I spent over $2,000 dollars that day). Again at 200K, a front right inner CV boot and the transmission pan gasket were leaking (these were fixed, both front CV boots were replaced). Replaced the air-fuel sensor again at 201K miles. The high beams became inoperative requiring a surprising amount of diagnostic work-up; in the end it was just a bulb that was out. At some point, the radio antenna gear strip broke (antenna would not lower), but I found out how to repair that myself from the internet and it only cost about $25. Finally, about a week ago I ended up paying for a $1400 repair because the ignition switch locked up (requiring a ride back to civilization aboard a flat-bed wrecker).
I would say the majority of my service is just tire rotations and oil changes. Every once and a while a sensor goes out (especially the air-fuel sensor), A few gasket and CV leaks (but despite ruptured CV covers, the CV joints were fine). If you were to see the vehicle, it appears new inside and out.
I still like it. For a sports utility vehicle, it is very quiet, smooth, handles well, has lots of storage and more than enough power.
I purchased this car with 130,000 mi. on it. The car still drives like a new car, minor wear on front leather driver seat & basically still looks new. I was aware of the transmission troubles with this model, but hoped it wouldn't happen to me, but it did! At around 160,000 mi., it went. I had a transmission put in & I am now at 180,000 mi. I drive around 100 miles daily, so it is a work horse for sure! I will be satisfied if it will take me to 300,000 with no major issues. I will then feel that I got my money's worth!
2000 AWD, purchased used in 2011 w 110K.
The good-smooth drivetrain, ride, reasonably comfortable seats.
Only replaced 1 O2 sensor in first 40K miles.
The bad-$$$ to fix: $1200 for timing belt/H2O pump.
At 152K, knock sensor and sub harness, air fuel ratio sensor, valve cover gaskets: $2100.
At 156K, front 2 catalysts: $900. The ugly: TERRIBLE MPG: Avg 16-17 around town, rarely more than 20 all highway.
The big culprit seems to be the gearing - very short geared - about 2900 RPM at 70MPH.
Extra weight for AWD does not help, nor do the side mirrors, the size of small flat screen TVs.
No compass. Radio and HVAC controls look the same.
Too expensive to own-would not buy another.
I bought this car used and have had no problems with it at all. I take my RX 300 in regularly for oil changes and that's about it. I currently have 78k on the car now and hope to drive it for another 100 thousand miles or more! I would recommend this car used over many other brand new makes and models. Although my vehicle is almost 7 years old now, I trust it's reliability 100%.