Update from 70k to now 80k -- Bought XLT used in 2012 w/16384 mi. turned ~80k~! No problems to speak of. Been great! The 2010 is the last model year of this style before the new/current style came out in 2011, so you'd think most every problem was worked out by 2010 :>) I bought a battery 1/16 to rpl orig. One set of tires around 45k is all. MPG rating of 14/20 is wrong - I consistently get 17.5 mpg around town [ in New England] and strictly hwy is 23+mpg...! All around excellent SUV; comfort, 7 passenger, rear AC, 4WD etc... The 200hp V6 is a very good engine. What it 'might' lack in [V8-like] power, it makes up for in mpg and all other areas. And you feel safe driving it! AnFeels like a nice, good sized solid SUV that rides like a car! What's your life worth, right :>) Problem areas [typical at 70k+ on most any vehicle]:
1.>- On the 2010 Expl - If you smell antifreeze or notice ever so slight 'wetness' on top of engine at BASE of rad hose housing, it's because housing for the thermostat is made of plastic and where bolts to manifold, gasket leaks. There's a metal therm housing for sale, though what I did was simply add a small bottle of Stop Leak [pellets] to the radiator, think is about 12-16 oz.(?). No more small leak there. Note-Make SURE you shake bottle well and ENSURE the PELLETS go into the rad too-first time I tried it, I poured in half the bottle thinking that would do it, what didn't realize is none of the pellets went in-pellets heavy and sink to bottle bottom, SO drain/syphon 12-16 oz coolant out of the radiator [not overflow tank] and try stop leak. Prior to this, my rad CAP was bad [yes, really;>)] <$5 solved that-new cap. 2.> Common: Rear diff seal drips very slightly, forget specific name for it, costs about <$80? to have mech replace. 3.> People complain of 5 spd auto trans 'clunking' on occasion. For me it's been simply the re-engaging of the trans after 'coasting'. Ex. You're in traffic [5-20mph] you move up then coast, THEN gas again-that's when it '''may''' clunk''' back into gear - is in my case anyway, maybe 4x/yr. No problem with mine here at 80k. Change trans fluid, oil, and diff 80w gear and transfer case fluids, and coolant flush when needed and you ''should'' be good to go. Good luck.
My 2010 Explorer XLT has been awesome! I do not put a lot of miles on a vehicle (have 36,000 after 3 years) but I have only had to replace the battery & tires. I will say the Goodyear tires that came on the Explorer was almost bald after 35,000 miles- I was disappointed in the tires but replaced them with Michelin Tour brand and it rides even better, smooth as silk now. Leather seats & great lumbar support-excellent! Other than these issues the vehicle has no rattles and looks like new. The paint, body quality, interior, brakes etc. are excellent quality and I am more than happy. I plan to keep this one for 10 to 12 years total and have no doubt it will make it.
Interior, smooth ride, great quality, great lumbar support.
Tires- wish they had been better quality than the Goodyear radials that were gone at 35,000 miles.
I bought the car in March only thing I didn't like no leather seats. After shipping around found a leather kit had it installed looks just it came from the factory. Lots of room really quit engine not as fast as mustang gt I traded but it gets me there. Love the adjustable gas and break pedals. Did a lot of looking but I think overall the explorer was the best bang for the buck.
quietness,adjustable pedals and the color love the copper color and best of all 0% interest for 72 months