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Black Creek, WI Car Consumer Discussions

Re: 08 MDX Creeking noise from driver window [xlr84life]

by brahda808 on Sun Nov 02 06:53:54 PST 2008

The third time I got the vehicle back, Acura replaced a black plastic trim molding on the outside of the the b-pillar. They stated it was "bowing" outward and when they pressed on it, it made a "squeaking" type of noise. But that didn't seem to solve the problem. Acura Quality Assurance Dept. called yesterday and inquired on the repair. I told them the problem still exists, so someone will call me on Monday to schedule another appointment to bring the vehicle in, again. I'll let you know the outcome.

Re: Nissan will fall apart [skarie]

by habitat1 on Mon Oct 13 18:02:26 PDT 2008

Almost every new cars that are made have a few bugs to be worked out, this Nissan is no exception. Give it time it will work. I'd give them slack for a "bug" or two. But a transmission that breaks and an instruction to owners NOT to use the "Launch Control" feature or you will invalidate your warranty?? That's not a "bug", that's a major mechanical engineering meltdown. I've always though "launch control" was a hoakie gimmick to satisfy stop light drag racing boys. But when you take that away from the GT-R, the acceleration goes from super car to merely above average. Forget the 911 Turbo, GT2, GT3 or even the new 911S, the GT-R will be neck and neck with a 2009 base 911 coupe with sport-chrono, which costs about the same as the GT-R. I only know what I've read in the GT-R owners forum form the link above. So hopefully, for Nissan's sake, the problem isn't as serious as it sounds and/or will be addressed directly and professionally by Nissan. And to be honest with you i would'nt even buy any of these two cars if i had the money, i prefer the CLK AMG Black Series or the Porsche 911 GT3. More fun to drive. Two damn good choices, but IMO you can't really compare them in the "fun to drive" department. The CLK63 has gobs of torque, but a slushbox automatic that appears to be the only transmission those testosterone laden AMG engineers can manage on any of their offerings. I have driven several AMG models and, after you mash your foot to the floor a few times, you've had about as much "fun" as they offer. They make some enormously fast cars, just nothing I would call a satisfying sports car. The GT3, on the other hand, is serious "fun". Light, tight, 8,400 rpm redline, and a proper 6-speed manual as the ONLY transmission choice. If you can't have fun in a GT3, you probably don't have a pulse. By the way, my issue with excess weight isn't that you can't engineer around it to make a heavy car perform very well at extreme limits, especially with AWD. Nissan has done that. Acura has done that. Even Audi and Porsche (911TT) have done that. My issue is that the excess weight dulls the nimbleness of the car at subsonic speeds and in quick transitions. That was my biggest gripe with the 350Z vs. S2000 when I test drove them. I didn't take them to Nurburgring, I took them through Rock Creek Park in DC. And the S2000 was considerably more fun to drive in that setting. Again, personal preference. .

Re: Won't start... Help... [fastford1]

by zaken1 on Sat Jul 19 10:38:26 PDT 2008

It would be a good idea to check the compression. That would be a way of confirming that the engine was assembled properly, the valves are seating, and the cam timing is right. The normal compression spec is 195psi. If the compression is less than 170, I would expect it to be extremely difficult, if not impossible, to start. A weak spark could also prevent it from starting. If your battery is old, or run down, that alone could cause this problem. You might try hooking up a good set of jumper cables from another vehicle, and then running the engine in that vehicle for 5 to 10 minutes, and then leave it running while trying to start the Metro. Metros used different parts in the ignition systems of cars that had 5 speeds; and those that had automatic transmissions. Some of those parts will not work well if they are mixed and used in the wrong type vehicle. Similarly, you can't substitute any other type of coil for the stock unit. In order for it to work properly, it must be a coil intended for that year and model car. And the spark plugs on Metros can easily foul, if the car is attempted to be started too many times. Try removing the plugs and seeing if the center porcelain has become wet with gasoline, or black with carbon. The plugs must all be clean and dry, be of the proper heat range, and the gap should be set to .041". It also might be that when the plug wires were installed in the new cap, the firing order was accidentally changed. That would do it... And if the distributor has been removed and replaced, then the ignition timing may have changed. Just to be safe, I would position the distributor so that the mounting bolts are in the center of their slots. If you've already done that, then try turning the distributor more clockwise from that center position; and be sure the mounting bolts are securely tightened before trying to start the motor. I hope this helps, Joel

Re: 95 geo 1.0 rough idle + loss of gas milage [mljwire]

by zaken1 on Fri Jul 11 20:30:19 PDT 2008

Hi Les, Thanks for all the detail. It was very helpful. But I'll be brief here, for simplicity's sake. 1> It sounds like either TPS pins 1-3, or 3-4 are the ones that switch. I'd use whichever pair's reading changes abruptly between the low and high figures when the throttle is opened a little above idle, with the housing set about midway in its travel. Then lock the housing in the position where the switching takes place when the throttle linkage opens .018" from fully closed throttle. 2> I'd stay with the Autolite plugs, as you have them set, and would definitely search around for a distributor cap without manufacturing cracks (try a NAPA parts store). 3> It sounds like the idle air control circuit is not working. I suppose it may just require more extreme conditions to activate it; but I expect it is inoperative. I can't help you with the repair procedure, but there should be an explanation in a 1995 Mitchell electrical systems manual (a huge, thick book that covers all brands of cars). The trick is to find one. Local library reference desk would be a start. A good fuel injection repair specialist will probably also have one, but may or may not cooperate with your need for information. 4> I wouldn't try this until all of the above items are resolved, (PARTICULARLY THE IDLE SPEED CONTROL MECHANISM) but sometimes the idle air bypass screw in the throttle body has to be reset. This cross head brass screw is hidden inside a boss, on the driver's side of the throttle body, near the rear edge of the casting, perhaps halfway up between the throttle body mounting flange and the air filter housing. There is a black rubber plug covering the screw when they are new. Turning the screw in (clockwise) enriches the mixture, and usually slows down the idle. Loosening the screw leans the mixture and speeds up the idle. There will be a range of adjustment over which the idle quality is pretty good, and there should be a sharp peak of smoothness within that range. But the throttle position must be set right before you can find that spot, and that means either fixing the idle speed control, or resetting the throttle stop to a further open position. 5> I assume you've checked the compression pressure. It should be very close to 195psi (which is a lot more than it is on most cars). Anything less than 180 fails. Everything else you mentioned sounds good. Best Wishes, Joel

no title

by shawnta on Tue Aug 19 23:52:52 PDT 2008

I ended up purchasing thru Stevens Creek. They replied to my inquiry at their website in less than 24 hours with a price lower than any of my local dealerships had been throwing my way. In addition, despite being told by Putnam Lexus that black on tan was very hard to find and impossible to really discount on, the Stevens Creek rep offered it to me for 48.432 over the phone with no haggle. I ended up buying for close to that---I went in and haggled a bit cuz they undervalued my trade in but in the end, I was just ready to get it done with. Overall, I was very unimpressed with Putnam. They repeatedly told me the car I wanted (colorwise) was pretty impossible to find and they could only offer "$500 courtesy discount from MRSP." Lexus of Serramonte was friendly but didn't bother trying to meet offers I got from other dealerships and let me walk off the salesfloor. Stevens Creek is HUGE, and the staff seemed friendly and efficient during my sole visit there.

Re: Compact Spare Tire [james104]

by bingoman on Thu Aug 14 17:31:24 PDT 2008

The compact spare is a black painted, cast alloy, five spoke wheel. It can be used for up to three thousand miles at up to 65 mph. I drove on it for about two hundred miles after a mishap coming home from Vegas, and I had no problems with handling, although I drove at only 55 mph because of a misunderstanding. I had the flashers on on the freeway and no one gave me any trouble. The left rear tire was destroyed by a large piece of road debris and I would have been up the proverbial creek if I had had the inflator kit.