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Dry Creek, WV Car Consumer Discussions

Re: Won't start... Help... [fastford1]

by zaken1 on Sat Jul 19 10:38:26 PDT 2008

It would be a good idea to check the compression. That would be a way of confirming that the engine was assembled properly, the valves are seating, and the cam timing is right. The normal compression spec is 195psi. If the compression is less than 170, I would expect it to be extremely difficult, if not impossible, to start. A weak spark could also prevent it from starting. If your battery is old, or run down, that alone could cause this problem. You might try hooking up a good set of jumper cables from another vehicle, and then running the engine in that vehicle for 5 to 10 minutes, and then leave it running while trying to start the Metro. Metros used different parts in the ignition systems of cars that had 5 speeds; and those that had automatic transmissions. Some of those parts will not work well if they are mixed and used in the wrong type vehicle. Similarly, you can't substitute any other type of coil for the stock unit. In order for it to work properly, it must be a coil intended for that year and model car. And the spark plugs on Metros can easily foul, if the car is attempted to be started too many times. Try removing the plugs and seeing if the center porcelain has become wet with gasoline, or black with carbon. The plugs must all be clean and dry, be of the proper heat range, and the gap should be set to .041". It also might be that when the plug wires were installed in the new cap, the firing order was accidentally changed. That would do it... And if the distributor has been removed and replaced, then the ignition timing may have changed. Just to be safe, I would position the distributor so that the mounting bolts are in the center of their slots. If you've already done that, then try turning the distributor more clockwise from that center position; and be sure the mounting bolts are securely tightened before trying to start the motor. I hope this helps, Joel

Re: Keep the government out of it [houdini1]

by roland3 on Thu Jul 17 18:55:53 PDT 2008

... It's all perfectly clear to me now. Carrying a grandchild, on my hip, with one arm, crossing a shallow creek, hoping from stone to stone; sees a rock with green moss, looks completely dry, it was; however bottom of shoes were wet, slipperier than a bowl of okra, no injuries, child was on the high side, as I sprawled on my left side in the water and rocks.

Re: What color is the inside of your exhaust pipe? [senormechanico]

by zaken1 on Thu Jul 03 16:33:34 PDT 2008

Steve, Your message sounds like one I replied to some time ago. Anyway, here are my takes on this issue. Right now, my 1990 5 speed Metro has a dark brown, dry coating on the inside of the pipe. It turns black in the winter months, when I only do short trips. This happens when the ambient air temperature stays below about 55 degrees Fahrenheit. At those times, my gas mileage in rural non freeway driving drops to around 40mpg. In the summertime, the rural short trip mileage goes up to about 47, and it reaches the mid 50s on freeway trips. There are several areas which could make the pipe turn black (which indicates an excessively rich fuel mixture.) One is if the stock 195 degree coolant thermostat has been removed, or has been replaced with one having a colder specification. Similarly, if either the EFI's coolant temperature sensor or the intake air temperature sensor has drifted out of calibration or has developed a resistive connection, it will cause excessive mixture richness. The mixture will also go rich if either of the mufflers have been removed, or if they have been replaced with non factory parts. Installing a non standard ignition coil can also create an excessively rich mixture. If there are deposits in the fuel injector, or on intake valves; they also can create a rich fuel mixture. The most effective product for removing deposits from those two areas is an exclusive chemical formula called Techroline, which is made by Standard Oil of California. It comes in a black bottle, and is sold nationwide at Wal Mart, Checker, Shucks, Kragen, and Murray auto stores. It is also sold by Standard stations and Chevron dealers. Two other things that can create an excessively rich mixture are using an unsuitable brand of spark plug (I've had best results with Autolites, and with Bosch Fusion {although the Bosch Fusions cost about $10 each}), or having a throttle position sensor which is out of adjustment. If your TPS is adjustable, mark the curent position, and try setting it slightly counterclockwise. If you go too far, it will cause a hesitation under moderate acceleration. Your exhaust pipe will tell you when you get it right. Joel

Re: Porsche questions [paisan]

by starrow68 on Wed Nov 21 12:31:49 PST 2007

paisan Mike, what conditions do you look for when you sign up for a track day? Cold and rainy or nice and sunny. We get our share of rain here in Northern Calif., as a matter of fact had a couple sessions yesterday in the wet at Sears Point raceway, Sonoma. And yes, the 4wd cars did wonderful things while they had the wet to play in, but when the track went nice again at lunch time it was another story. paisan: "Maybe on the west coast where it's sunny and dry all the time and the tracks are perfectly smooth with no gravel or imperfections, a vette would win but in the real world or in a place where there are environmental variables, a more balanced car would be my preference." Are you a host or a guy looking to stir up comment? I doubt Sears Point does much more than Watkins Glen to try and make the track nice for the two real races the Stock Car boys put on each year. And if you want gravel, try Reno-Fernley and Spring Mt. Raceway since both are set in Nevada. Most folks looking to run on a road course aren't looking for a Rally circuit, you may enjoy something different. As for balance, yesterday was a good view of wet and dry conditions at Sears Point. In the third session, advanced, I went out late and pulled up to the starter for a black flag to get a Miata off track. Got to pull out behind another Miata and we were both taking it easy as about 2/3 of the track was still pretty wet. As we got back to the starter there was another black flag. Yellows at each station up to turn 7 where she was waving it lazily, we weren't going too fast. Did the sweep and into the 8 esses and off the outside of 8a, 1/2 an esse before Jr. had his fire there sits a silver 911 with the driver and safety crew surveying the scraped off rear facia about 50 ft. off track where he had rear swiped the tire barrier. Think he might have lifted? The Vette C5 and C6's are about 50/50 or as close as you can get when corner weighting. Can you say that about the Porsches? Balanced? I do agree that they can be driven fast, but novices better take some time getting to that point or they are going to find out about balance. Randy Oh BTW, if the little plastic card from NASA and my work with Thunderhill Street School makes me certified, then I guess I could say the same. Mostly I think I sit in the right seat trying to keep folks out of walls, which is amazingly easy if you can teach them the line. Oh, and not to lift!

Re: stuck and pissed [m564ag]

by zaken1 on Sun Sep 09 17:58:24 PDT 2007

One thing that can cause intermittent starting problems, and is very difficult to find, is a tiny crack or carbon track in the distributor rotor. It can be checked by taking off the distributor cap, pulling the coil wire out of the distributor cap's center terminal, and first checking for spark by holding that end of the coil wire about 1/4" from the valve cover, while someone cranks the engine. CAUTION; TO AVOID GETTING A SHOCK, WRAP A THICK, DRY RAG AROUND THE WIRE WHERE YOU HOLD IT, OR KEEP YOUR HAND AT LEAST SIX INCHES AWAY FROM THE EXPOSED METAL TERMINAL. If a spark jumps from the wire to the valve cover, then you know the coil is working. After that, hold the end of the coil wire about 1/4" above the center end of the metal rotor blade, while someone cranks the engine. If the rotor is good, there should be NO SPARK between the wire and the rotor. If a spark jumps from the wire to the rotor, then replace the rotor. It would also be wise to replace the cap along with the rotor. If the coil and rotor both test good; then the problem is most likely a bad distributor cap and/or worn or dirty spark plugs. Metros are VERY demanding on spark plugs. They can look clean, and still not start reliably. I've found that changing to a plug of a different brand will sometimes make a huge difference. And be sure to use the recommended plug number (sometimes the plug that's now in the motor may not be the recommended type) Also, sometimes the carbon button can fall out of the inside of the distributor cap. That can cause all sorts of crazy symptoms. If, and only if, all of the above suggestions didn't help, then I would replace the ignition pick-up unit in the distributor. Incidentally, when replacing an ECM, it is important to disconnect the battery before doing anything to the ECM. Just having the key out is not enough. There are electrical feeds to the ECM which are hot even with the key off. Unbolting the ECM with the battery connected can cause damage, or disrupt the programming. You can reset the ECM's programming by disconnecting the battery, and waiting at least 30-45 seconds before connecting the battery again.

Re: It's the troposphere, sourpuss. [saabgirl]

by gagrice on Thu May 10 21:58:27 PDT 2007

You make very good points. For me I gave up my Nordic day cruiser with its 454 fire breathing engine. My dune buggies and motorcycles. I draw the line on crawling into a little tin can of a car and doing battle with all the giant PU trucks on the highway. If the people in Bangladesh are living that close to the beach that they are going to drown it is not my problem. My daddy told me never build on sand in a dry creek bed or any place that is known to get flooded. You want the pleasure of beach front living you sometimes have to pay the price. I am not going to drive a Yugo so some fat cat can live in the Hamptons without fear of being washed out to sea.