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Short Creek, WV Car Consumer Discussions

Re: 1998 Metro lack of power AGAIN! [brokestudent2]

by zaken1 on Mon Sep 22 19:50:54 PDT 2008

When I first bought and began working on my 3 cylinder Metro, I soon discovered that this engine requires far more tension on the alternator belt than any other car I have ever worked on (and I''m a professional mechanic). It apparently is the result of the unusually high efficiency of this alternator design; which enables it to produce power at a lower engine speed than most alternators, combined with the short distance between pulleys on this engine. Because the belt tension has to be so unusually high, I found that many inexpensive (and some major) brands of fan belts will stretch under this type of service, and thus cannot maintain the tension at which they were originally adjusted. The one brand of fan belt that has proven to be durable is Goodyear. And that is now the only brand of fan belt I will use on a 3 cylinder Metro engine. You may need to use a long bar or block of wood to pull as a lever against the alternator; in order to properly tension the belt. Be careful to not allow any metal object to touch the live alternator terminal where the power cable attaches. Tighten the belt to the point where it feels like a tightly strung rope, which will not move down when you try to press down on the midpoint of its longest unsupported span. It should feel much tighter than any other fan belt you have adjusted. The faster you drive, the more resistance the alternator will produce against being turned by the belt. I believe the burning smell you noticed was created when the belt began slipping on the alternator pulley. It is normal for any new fan belt (including a Goodyear) to stretch some during the first few miles it is used. So you will need to recheck and adjust the belt tension once or twice during the first week. After that; it should remain stable. The one other factor that could hamper your car's performance (and possibly cause burning smells) is ignition timing that has been set too far retarded. Sometimes during an emission inspection; if the car's emissions are too high, the mechanic may retard the timing in order to make it pass. Retarding timing beyond factory specifications is a cheap way to make a car pass smog; but it has major consequences of causing excessive heat, reducing power, and potentially damaging the engine; particularly at high speeds.This can also happen if the mechanic does not follow the proper procedure that is required in order to check the timing on this engine. Sometimes it is necessary to first disconnect an electrical connector at the distributor, before checking the timing. The procedure should be listed on the emission information label attached to the underside of the hood. I hope this helps!!! Joel

Re: 1994 Toyota celica engine starting problems? [dalicea97]

by zaken1 on Wed Aug 13 10:18:44 PDT 2008

It certainly could be a faulty starter; but since the lights dimmed way down, the type of starter problem that would cause that is not bad contacts; instead, it would be a short in the starter motor armature. But the remedy is the same in either case; to replace the starter. However, there is another thing that would make the lights dim way down, and that is if the battery has aged to the point that it no longer has sufficient energy capacity to drive the starter motor. If this is the problem, and they replace your starter without first testing the battery with a load tester; the new starter will not fix the problem, and they will have wasted your money. Any shop qualified to do electrical diagnosis would load test the battery BEFORE replacing the starter.

Re: Still cannot get spark to the plugs! [greenpickel]

by zaken1 on Sun Jul 06 11:49:25 PDT 2008

Dan, You are correct in concluding that you have a U.S. model. But the news that it is an XFI is a surprise. I don't doubt that, but it complicates the situation. XFIs were relatively rare. They were designed to give the highest possible fuel economy. To achieve that, the engine was designed with one less piston ring than the standard engine (for lower friction) and the camshaft had a shorter duration and lower lift. This moved the power curve down to a lower RPM, but it also made less peak power than the standard engine. Those differences were small enough that it wouldn't be a bother to most drivers; but they did require the computer to be calibrated differently. The throttle body also had slightly different (leaner) calibrations, and the spark advance curve was different. So, once you get it running; a standard engine with XFI tuning will not run quite like it was intended to. I have an XFI throttle body on my standard Metro, and it has taken a bit of work to get the mixture where it belongs, and to keep the check engine light from protesting. But I now prefer the way it runs. If you get it running, and there is a problem with the computer, the check engine light will come on and stay on. That light is supposed to briefly light when you first turn the key, but it should go out when the engine starts. If there is a computer problem, the computer will generate a trouble code, which will cause the check engine light to flash a coded sequence when the key is turned on (before cranking the starter). The sequence can be read and then the explanation can be looked up in a chart. This information is in the service manual. If the engine runs, and the check engine light stays off, then the computer is OK (assuming the check engine light comes on momentarily when the key is first turned on). Parts stores are not equipped to test computers. Dealerships can, but they charge a lot to do so, and sometimes the results are misleading. I've seen trouble codes which said one thing, when the problem was something else. Not for the faint hearted, or those who are short of money. In that kind of work, it would be preferable to work with a dealership who was liberal and customer friendly about adjusting their charges to keep things fair; rather than one which charged for everything they did, whether it worked or not. But don't forget the ignition pick up unit. If it is bad, you definitely will not get a spark. Also, it is not a good idea to use an ohmmeter to test fuses. I've seen too many misleading results. A self powered continuity test light is a much more appropriate tool for that purpose. Connecting a 12 volt light bulb in series with the fuse and the vehicle battery will also work comparably; providing the bulb does not draw more current than the rating of the fuse (a bulb with a rating of between 5watts and 25 watts is preferable). And that same light bulb is the absolute best tool for checking the fuse box to see if each of the fuse sockets can supply enough current to light the bulb; when the other end of the bulb filament is grounded. Joel

Re: What color is the inside of your exhaust pipe? [senormechanico]

by zaken1 on Thu Jul 03 16:33:34 PDT 2008

Steve, Your message sounds like one I replied to some time ago. Anyway, here are my takes on this issue. Right now, my 1990 5 speed Metro has a dark brown, dry coating on the inside of the pipe. It turns black in the winter months, when I only do short trips. This happens when the ambient air temperature stays below about 55 degrees Fahrenheit. At those times, my gas mileage in rural non freeway driving drops to around 40mpg. In the summertime, the rural short trip mileage goes up to about 47, and it reaches the mid 50s on freeway trips. There are several areas which could make the pipe turn black (which indicates an excessively rich fuel mixture.) One is if the stock 195 degree coolant thermostat has been removed, or has been replaced with one having a colder specification. Similarly, if either the EFI's coolant temperature sensor or the intake air temperature sensor has drifted out of calibration or has developed a resistive connection, it will cause excessive mixture richness. The mixture will also go rich if either of the mufflers have been removed, or if they have been replaced with non factory parts. Installing a non standard ignition coil can also create an excessively rich mixture. If there are deposits in the fuel injector, or on intake valves; they also can create a rich fuel mixture. The most effective product for removing deposits from those two areas is an exclusive chemical formula called Techroline, which is made by Standard Oil of California. It comes in a black bottle, and is sold nationwide at Wal Mart, Checker, Shucks, Kragen, and Murray auto stores. It is also sold by Standard stations and Chevron dealers. Two other things that can create an excessively rich mixture are using an unsuitable brand of spark plug (I've had best results with Autolites, and with Bosch Fusion {although the Bosch Fusions cost about $10 each}), or having a throttle position sensor which is out of adjustment. If your TPS is adjustable, mark the curent position, and try setting it slightly counterclockwise. If you go too far, it will cause a hesitation under moderate acceleration. Your exhaust pipe will tell you when you get it right. Joel

Re: seniorin need of help. [suydam]

by trashfish on Sun Jun 29 14:52:41 PDT 2008

:mad: I have been searching for a Vibe (with all the bells and whistles) for MONTHS...now intensely, the past 2 weeks. (need it fast!) Almost EVERY used one( 2005-07) I have found within 75 miles (of savannah Ga) has either been from a rental-lease program (Popular with rental companies?!) or had been "injured" (unspecified). ANd not one was under 15,000!!! (oops... I found a 2006 for 14,999 with 25,000 miles...turned out it had been in a wreck...and the dealer would not budge below 14,500!!!! A 2006!!! SO..I decided I could get a brand new one for maybe 3000 bucks more ...why buy someone else's problem? HA! EVERY Vibe (2008) within a 100 miles is GONE as soon as I or one of the local Dealers locates it. Found one (A Dealer found it) in N.C. for 21,500 loaded, Sun & Moons,6-CD, On Star, Pref Pkg, ABS, White, etc...so with $2000 rebate, including tax, all the paper BS, destination fee, etc, the "out the door" is 20,445 or so! Holy Moly!!! (SUV prices! ) ANYWAY...decided to jump on that one, emailed the dealer to try to get it for me...no response back. Am almost certain he can not get it now...been 3 days while I decided. I took too long! One dealer found one on a dealer's lot in North Ga...tried to get it (trade one of his) for me...the dealer refused to trade it to him. What is going on? A shortage of '08's? I do NOT like the 09's...only good thing about them is the standard features that were options on the 08's... DURN!!!....they discontinued that great independant hatch window! Great useful feature. Wonder why? And 09's have bigger piller blind spots now. So.am up a creek.....I now need this car THIS week ...am about to give up on a Vibe.. A local dealer does have a loaner 2008 on his lot (3000 miles on it) white (color I want) power and auto, but no sunroof or ABS...18,000 out the door.(After 2000 rebate)!! SHEESH!!!! EVEN EBAY is short on these! HELP!!! Also...question...can the Vibe pull a small boat????? I have to relinquish my truck Friday (someone hit it and totalled it!) and was hoping the Vibe could do it all...cargo and occasionally the little boat. (Under 1000 pounds).???????? Otherwise I may have to consider a CR-V or Highlander....sigh. Thanks!!!

Reverse problem with Escape Hybrid

by patmck152 on Wed May 14 12:18:36 PDT 2008

Hello, Just joined the forum and I need some advice. I currently drive a 2001 Escape V6 FWD with every option except 4WD and it's a great vehicle. I've taken it, fully loaded with all my gear, to Big Bend Nat'l Park(offroad) and many other camping trips in Texas and it has always performed great, even offroad. I've had my heart set on purchasing a 2009 FEHybrid sometime this summer. I've read that a new 6 speed engine, getting a bit more gas mileage, and stability control will be added in 2009 model. Most everything I've read so far about the FEH is positive--that is until today, when I read z28gurl's post on here (post # 10 from June 25, 2007). z28gurl's post stated: "REVERSE, is useless up the slightest incline!!!!! I wouldnt want to attempt to haul a trailer with this SUV and if ever you get yourself in a tight situation ( camp roads that you arent familiar with) and have little or no other option but to back up a hill, you better just get out and call a tow truck, your not going to get out, trust me. Fortunately the wheel base is short enough that you can amazingly turn it around in some pretty tight spots." This statement is making me think again about buying a FEH. If this is true that reverse drive is useless up an incline, then I would have been up the creek last year at Big Bend cause I had to backup MANY, MANY times at the places I camped--and with a full load of camping gear! My Escape V6 did fine, but if the Hybrid won't backup right, I can't use it. Even though most of my driving will be in town, I'll still do a lot of camping in tight spaces where REVERSE DRIVE IS A MUST. So can anyone please help me out on this issue--what's the scoop on this Hybrid not being able to backup properly?? Thanks, Patmck