Locate an Auto Repair Shop in Provo, Utah

Now that you've bought that beautiful new car, how do you plan to take care of it? When the need for vehicle maintenance or accident repair arises, Edmunds.com features a national directory of auto repair shops to help you locate a trustworthy mechanic in your area. Search our listings of auto repair shops in Provo, Utah and compare prices and services to find the best deal at the most convenient location. With all the time and effort that went into buying your new car, it's important to find an auto repair shop you can trust.

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Franks Lakeside Service

685 W Center St
Provo, UT 84601
(801) 375-2880

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Sds Auto Center

825 W Center Street
Provo, UT 84601
(801) 374-6931

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Japanese Auto Repair

235 W 300 S
Provo, UT 84601
(801) 373-9696

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Harmon's Provo Auto Center

470 W 100 N
Provo, UT 84601
(800) 351-7261

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Brereton Automotive & Tire Co.

241 West 500 S
Provo, UT 84601
(801) 373-8830

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Import Auto Center

44 E 400 S
Provo, UT 84606
(801) 374-8881

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Provo, UT Car Consumer Discussions

Buick with 3.8: by michaell on Wed Jul 30 09:30:54 PDT 2008; I just did another search and found this. Seems to be a bit more car for $8K, which I suspect is negotiable. EDIT: Andre, thanks for the feedback, but neither of the kids are what you call 'sporty' drivers, though the son does like to push the speed limit from time to time. Most of the driving would be in town (they live just outside Provo, UT), or on rural interstates - her parents live 200 miles south on I-15, while we live 500 miles east on I-70.

RE: Exhaust manifold bolts [pbug777]: by marky3130 on Wed Apr 09 21:24:46 PDT 2008; Now that the weather has warmed up I finally tackled the broken bolts. I got lucky when I removed the remaining 4 bolts as none of the heads broke off. Took awhile to get the bolts loose where the manifold connects to the head pipe but I finally muscled them off and got the manifold out. After removing the plug wires and some other things I could finally get at the bolts. Fortunately there was a 1/4 inch of the bolt sticking out of the block on both bolts. I got some vise grips on them and once I got them turning they came out without too much trouble. Took forever as I could only get about a 1/4 turn before I had to release the vice grips and reset them. I replaced all 6 bolts on the drivers side as I already had them out. Total cost: $15.50 for the bolts. (Gasket was still good) Total Time: 3 hours

Re: Another person to contact... [cowboys59]: by mockingbird99 on Thu Mar 13 01:23:38 PDT 2008; Well, I guess I am not alone with the FreeStar thing. I bought the car new, 2004, and without any noise or warning, it coasted to a stop out on the freeway (I-70 in the remote part of Utah) about 1 month ago. Luckily, there was little traffic, so I was able to get off the road over on the shoulder. I called my son in Grand Junction and he said that has access to a tow truck. So he pulled it back to Colorado that night. Next day, I was told by the Ford dealer (Western Slope Ford) that it was the torque converter. Now the bad news: 46,000 miles and out of warranty, and they wouldn't cover a dime. Estimate was $3200. Sooo, I had my son take it to an independent transmission place in Provo, Utah. Total cost, with after-market parts? $1150, with parts and labor. Pays to shop around, but the main thing is that the Ford dealer lied about the frequency of the failures. He (the shop foreman) said this was the first Freestar van that he had ever heard about breaking down (with transmission problems). The transmission shop in Provo, however, has repaired 9 of these cars with the same problme in the last 6 months. I would love to sue Ford, as would all of you out there. Perhaps if we get in touch with Consumer Reports, they may put us in touch with an attorney for a class-action litigation. Sad part is, I like the car, and this is the only trouble I have had.

RE: Exhaust manifold bolts: by marky3130 on Mon Feb 25 15:14:48 PST 2008; pbug777 I have the same problem. I also own a 2000 Chevy Silverado 2500 with the 6.0L and I had an exhaust leak that I could only pin to the drivers side manifold but I didn't know where. After reading your post I went and looked and sure enough I am missing the front two exhaust manifold bolts on the drivers side. Out of curiosity, did you get it fixed and how much did it cost?

Re: Rear Suspension solutions [55airlight]: by 55airlight on Tue Dec 18 10:47:18 PST 2007; THIS POST SHOULD PRECEDE THE POST ABOVE IT, SINCE IT INTRODUCES THE CORRESPONDENCE FROM THE EQUAL-I-ZER MANUFACTURER. READ THIS FIRST TO MAKE ANY SENSE OF THIS THREAD. THANKS. Replying to: webgood (Dec 12, 2007 12:04 pm) BGood, The Toyota Highlander is more of a car than a SUV and does not have a suspension system suitable for the use of Air Lift products. I am considering the Equalizer hitch. However, if you have any luck with your inquiries, please advise the forum; I'll track the thread. Meanwhile here is a copy of my correspondence with the Equal-i-zer people, who responded within a day to my inquiry. Right away I like their product. Michael -------------------------- Your Question: �I have a small vintage 1955 Airstream-type aluminum airframe trailer, I think gross vehicle weight is 2000 lbs, could be higher after I finish modernizing the systems. My tow vehicle is a 2004 Toyota Highlander which is rated by Toyota (with tow package) at 3500 lbs. However, the coil over shock independent rear suspension disallows the installation of an Air Lift product. And I am suffering some rear end sag on the vehicle (which is really a car, not an SUV, irrespective of it's profile.) Would your lightest duty weight distribution hitch be a good solution for relieving the rear end sag on my Highlander whilst under tow? I appreciate that most Equal-i-zer hitches are used on bigger, heavier trailers. But is there a compelling reason why not to use one on a much smaller, lighter trailer such as mine? Thanks.� Answer: The Equal-i-zer hitch would provide you with sway control and the weight distribution you are seeking. However, the Equal-i-zer hitch has a minimum tongue weight requirement of 250 lbs. As long as you loaded tongue weight is at or over this 250 lb limit, you should be fine to use our 6,000/600 lb rated Equal-i-zer hitch. There is no downside to using an Equal-i-zer hitch on a smaller trailer. All it can do is give you good weight distribution, and the sway control goes a long way in keeping you safe while towing. Let me know if you have any more questions. Thanks, Progress Mfg Inc. 533 S. 500 W. Provo, Utah 84601

1200 mile road trip in our '08 VUE XR AWD: by michaell on Fri Oct 12 10:01:01 PDT 2007; Wife and I took a road trip last weekend - Denver to Provo, UT and back. 1200 miles round trip. The 4 tanks of gas I measured were as follows: tank 1 - Denver to Grand Junction, CO. I-70 all the way; speed was between 60-80 MPH, depending upon conditions. Two trips above 10,000 feet. MPG = 22.3 tank 2 - Grand Junction to Provo, UT. I-70, US 6 and some local driving. MPG - 19.2 tank 3 - local driving (to Park City, UT), then to Price, UT on the return trip. MPG = 19.4 tank 4 - Price, UT to Grand Junction, CO. US 6 and I-70 again. MPG = 22.9 EPA numbers are 16 and 22, so I feel we did pretty well. The VUE started the trip with just over 2000 miles on it.

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