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Raleigh, North Carolina Auto Repair Shops

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Raleigh, NC Car Consumer Discussions

Re: 99 mazda millenia s [natekelly]
by kiawah on Sun Nov 16 14:02:28 PST 2008
or fuel delivery issues. Doesn't use much fuel when idling, but as you are revving it up it would need more fuel delivery from the fuel pump/filter. But your problem could be many things, you should take it somewhere to have them diagnose it properly.
Re: 2009 Odyssey Lease Question [Car_man]
by 2dflyer on Fri Nov 14 20:40:46 PST 2008
Do you know if the 0.00161 is nationwide? We're in Raleigh and the first pass money factor we got was closer to 0.00200. We should qualify for top tier. Thanks, Allan
Raleigh, NC Money Factor
by 2dflyer on Fri Nov 14 17:04:38 PST 2008
We're shopping leases comparing an '09 Honda Odyssey EX and '09 Sienna XLE. Honda's initial offer is invoice and a 0.00191 money factor on a 36 month lease with $2000 at signing. One Toyota dealer said they could not compete and didn't even offer a quote. In explaining their inability to compete the dealer said they could compete on a purchase but not a lease. This makes little sense to me. Isn't purchase price independent of lease or buy? If they should be able to something near invoice are the NC money factors so high that they can't compete? What should money factors be for both Honda and Toyota in this area? Thanks much, Allan
Mileage on my 2009 Mazda6 i GT
by trinitywolf on Fri Nov 14 06:49:28 PST 2008
I am getting less than a 20 mpg avg with the 4 cylinder??? Yes I romp on it some but this is dismal. :( However I do not have even a thousand miles on the iGT. IF I had of known it was going to be that bad I would have gotten the S with the 6 cylinder.
Re: Intermittent Starting Problems [tj27]
by kiawah on Mon May 19 18:32:45 PDT 2008
You have to figure out whether it is the ignition switch and circuitry to the starter, the starter itself, or the battery and heavy duty cables. Hang a fused test wire off of the starter into the car, so that you can measure the voltage of the ignition switch feed to the starter. It's the thinner wire to the primary side of the relay, on the starter motor. When this primary goes positive, the starter relay should engage, providing power to the starter motor. Wire this up, and wait till you have a no-start situation. Try to start the ignition switch, and measure the voltage on this wire. No (or low) voltage, you know the problem is 'upstream' coming from the ignition switch. If you have the correct voltage (13+volts), then you know the ignition circuitry is fine, and you need to look to the starter motor or battery/cables. Once you know the ignition switch and circuitry is good, hang your test wire on the secondary side of the relay on the starter, it will be the big thick wire. (Disconnect your battery before you wire up any of these test wires.) Now wait for a failure again, and measure the voltage on the secondary when it fails. If you have 13+ volts, then your starter relay or starter is bad, because it's getting the voltage but not turning over. If you don't have the correct voltage, then either the battery is bad, there is corrosion in the connector or up in the wire itself.
Re: Drifting to the right [ahightower]
by kiawah on Thu Nov 13 18:14:19 PST 2008
Hmmm....I just recently threw out all the old receipts since I no longer have that vehicle, so I don't know the costs. "IF" the ball joint is your problem.....Just purely guessing, I would think a ball joint is around 30-40 bucks a piece, and at least an hour of labor a piece. They put on spring compressors, and un bolt and disconnect the hub from the ball joint. Then use a ball joint tool which presses the old ball joint from the lower A frame. They then press in the new ball joint, and reassemble the hub. Take off the spring compressors, put the wheels back on, and then have to re-align the vehicle again. Sometimes a ball joint will squeak when it is worn.

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