Locate an Auto Repair Shop in Bent, New Mexico

Now that you've bought that beautiful new car, how do you plan to take care of it? When the need for vehicle maintenance or accident repair arises, Edmunds.com features a national directory of auto repair shops to help you locate a trustworthy mechanic in your area. Search our listings of auto repair shops in Bent, New Mexico and compare prices and services to find the best deal at the most convenient location. With all the time and effort that went into buying your new car, it's important to find an auto repair shop you can trust.

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Charlies 4x4 & More

595 Central Ave
Tularosa, NM 88352
(575) 585-9155

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Alamo Rosa Service Center

7400 Highway 54 70
Alamogordo, NM 88310
(505) 585-0700

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Big JAX RV Sun Valley Auto

7033 N Hwy 54/70
Alamogordo, NM 88310
(505) 434-3783

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La Luz Automotive

41 Holiday Ln
La Luz, NM 88337
(575) 434-1355

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Desert Sun Motors

2600 N White Sands Blvd
Alamogordo, NM 88310
(505) 437-7530

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Master Tune & Lube

2506 N White Sands
Alamogordo, NM 88310
(505) 434-1312

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Bent, NM Car Consumer Discussions

Re: Engine Problems =S [mavswimmer]: by autonomous on Mon Nov 17 09:41:48 PST 2008; driving on gravel ... and I think I threw a rod, not really sure, but my engine is making a loud knock and tap on regular intervals, not on and off, seems like everytime each cylinder cycles Sorry, I don't see the connection between the gravel and the engine knock. Coincidence, perhaps? If you rev the motor does the knocking increase? Alternatively, can you see under the car to see if anything has been bent by debris? If the car is driveable, I'd bring it to a garage.

Re: check this out [joe97]: by joe97 on Thu Nov 13 22:08:15 PST 2008; Submitted by an anonymous poster: I work on both airbags and steering wheels for a living, and believe me, the steering wheel is supposed to bend. If it was stiff, it would cause even more damage to the occupant. With the steering wheel being bent the way it is, though, that tells me the person was unbelted. Which is stupid step number one. Also, with the angle crash appears to have occurred, it's right in between a side and a frontal crash. It's likely not that the airbags failed to go of -- the computer that collects the data and determines if it is a good course of action probably decided a "no-deploy" was the best case. Airbags help, for sure, but can sometimes do more harm than good. If you're incorrectly seated, unbelted, etc., they can induce injuries you may otherwise have not sustained. That's why you should always wear your seatbelt! Airbags work with seatbelts as a system for the maximum safety effects.

no title: by shopstomuch on Tue Nov 11 13:46:26 PST 2008; That's the odd thing, this does not seem to be outside temperature related. It started doing it in the summer, just occassionally. My son had slightly bent my pass key, so we bought a new key, thinking it could be that. Because even according to the user manual, this sounds just like a security problem, where the car is telling the security system it is being stolen etc and shutting the fuel system down. But, the new key didn't resolve the issue. We are at a complete loss now as what to do.

Cupping: by pf_flyer on Sun Nov 09 06:10:10 PST 2008; I've heard of similar issues on Saturns where they had a TSB for a shim fix for a rear alignment (camber) problem. If it's something where the adjustment needs to be "helped" with shims to get it to specs, I'm not sure that replacing control arms is going to do much of anything unless those control ares were bent or deformed somehow. But that's just a gut feeling

Replaced Timing Belt: by premad on Sun Nov 09 03:42:51 PST 2008; Just wanted add a post about changing a timing belt on an 05 Aveo. It is pretty simple but you need the right tools. I purchased aftermarket parts (timing belt, idler pulley, tensioner pulley and water pump for $170.00) and they fit like a fine tuned glove. They guy I bought the kit from gave me a copy of the instruction from the GM manual which helped a lot. Some things to note for the DIYers. You will need to remove the engine mount in order to get the belt off which was not noted in the instructions but real simple. When removing the motor mount you will need to put a jack under the motor so it does not fall to the ground!! I used my jack and put a 2x4 across the oil pan and AC unit to hold the motor up. If you replace the water pump in the process you will need to pull off the rear timing belt cover which is a pain and the upper bolts need to come off which are behind the top cam gears. So before you remove the belt spin the gears and remove the 2 top bolts then remove the belt! Note that when you pull the belt off, the top gears move out of position by 1 tooth and the car will run like crap if this happens. Happened to me on the first try!!! What I did was, I put the belt on the bottom gear first then slide it on to the top right cam gear and then aligned the top timing marks back up by rotating the left gear in place and then slid the belt on the left gear. Took a couple tries until I got the hang of it but was not too bad. Another thing to note is you NEED the water pump tool or you will not be able to tighten or loosen the timing belt. I bought a Daewoo version of the tool which was 70.00 vs 112.oo gor the GM tool and it worked perfect! It is a 42mm wrench and is bent so you can get a rachet on it. The tool is a must have along with a tourqe wrench if you are going to replace the belt yourself. Don't forget to have a 5mm allen wrench on a socket so you can tourqe the water down. Hope this helps other DIYers!

Re: Valve/engine woes. Need advice. [aatherton]: by bigfrank3 on Fri Nov 07 09:49:31 PST 2008; Allan, that is certainly plausible, except that I have never found valves to be fragile and bend unless they are struck. Perhaps the most likely cause is somewhere between the 2 scenarios. If the valve was in fact still "kept" but the entire assembly moved lower in the head, then maybe the valve still got kissed by the piston. There is not a lot of clearance there. I have never found a valve to get bent just because it was allowed to "wobble" a bit because of a bad guide, unless it got hit by the piston. Given that there were also codes for cylinder number 2 along the way I did not make the assumption that this was the exact problem that appeared before the 60K mark. Too bad you and I weren't there to tear it down. :)

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