Locate an Auto Repair Shop in Hastings, Nebraska

Going back to the Jag MKI, the stately carriage behind it is a Daimler Conquest - so named because it cost £1066 (plus tax) when introduced in the mid fifties (1066 being the one date most Brits know from history, as that was the Norman Conquest, via the Battle of Hastings).

My sister and BIL (in San Diego) have had two cars stolen. First was by BIL's Toyota pickup .. this happened about a month or two after he had paid it off. Cops found it stripped in a field close to the US-Mexico border. Insurance company totaled it and he bought an Acura Integra. Next, my sister's immaculate 1985 Mazda RX-7 was taken from their apartment complex one night. My sister didn't know it was gone until they got a call from the Sheriff's department. Apparently, the car was pulled over for a traffic infraction and the two bozo's in the front seats bailed. There was a young female stuffed into the rear compartment who was arrested by the cops. My sister got her car back intact - in fact, in their haste to beat feet from the cops, the perps actually left a cassette case full of tapes in the car. My sister actually said it was pretty good music they left behind.

After several false starts I have finally finished. This is what I did: 1... Threaded 4' of 1/4 OD polyethylene tubing over stiff coat hanger 2... Put a rounded loop on end of the cpat hanger that is going throught the hole. 3... Threaded the 75% of the length of coat hanger and tube through the hole and into the engine compartment. This takes about 5 minutes of effort as you have pull the assembly back and curve it slightly as it goes in. What you want it the hose/hanger to have slight upward bend as it comes through the hole into the engine compartment. (ATTENTION: IT CAN GO ALL THE WAY IN AND NOT COME OUT ON IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT. THIS IS A RESULT OF IT FOLLOWING THE INTERNAL FRAME, JUST TRY AGAIN WITH DIFFERENT BEND) 4... go under the car and gentley ucrimp the loop in the running end of the coat hanger 5... go back into driver side foot well and gentley pull the coat hanger through the tube, leaving tube inplace 6... insert 1/8" OD hose barb to hose barb coupling into the end of the hose that pulled the coat hanger through 7... get your epoxy putty that is used for radiator repair and cut off a pinky finger tip size lump and mix it till it gets gray. roll it out into a littel putty snake and wrap around the end of the tube where it connects to the hose barb 8... push the whole assembly into the evap drain pan, make sure to take very special care not to let the putty come off the hose barb 9... press the hose/barb/putty assembly into the evap drain hole. 10... go under car and pull the hose gently from where it exits the hole in the engine compartment fire wall. make sure to pull only lightly so that you can feel it seat in the drain pan 11... go back to driver side foot well and insert fiber into drain pan and push assembly into the drain hole pay special attention to make sure the epoxy putty seats all around the sides of the hose barb while making sure the actualy hole that water will drain into stays free of putty. 12... zip tie the hose to keep it away from the engine and heat 13.. let sit for 2 hours and test... will post picture when i figure out how to on this website... if I had time to do one thing different it would be to use a heat resistant tubing, like something you would find in an automobile store... hopefully in this case my haste didnt make waste">

A few weeks after buying our 1996 Subaru Outback (which was an auto), it started randomly stalling on us. I was driving through a parking lot one night (~5 mph?) and just started turning into a parking spot when it stalled. I went to throw it in neutral to restart, but totally missed it in my haste and put it in park. That was a nasty noise! I'm sure I did some damage, too, because it never did like to hold 'Park' on hills after that. Anything more than a couple degrees and it would let loose (occasionally). I was pretty embarrassed about it, but when you're used to manual transmissions, automatics can feel rather awkward from time to time. At least I had quit stomping the floor to the left of the brake pedal by that time! :P

I had my bad brake pads replaced with the new ones under the class action suit. I have a 2008 EXLV6. No more problems and no unscrupulous service department. They were extremely apologetic for the problem and promised the new ones should last at least 40K miles. No attempt at selling me something I didn't need. Go to another dealer post haste! There are bad dealerships for all brands of cars. The premature wear thing was unfortunate but it sure beats some of the life threatening problems that have occurred with other brands. I will still consider a Honda next time.