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Re: G35x - iPod Interface? [ucjjg]

by ewl88 on Mon Oct 13 16:20:15 PDT 2008

I believe any premium package has ipod interface. Straight from Infiniti site: I bolded the Ipod package. FYI, it works very well. I can't see how the interface could be improved. Premium Package - Power sliding tinted glass moonroof with one-touch open/close, tilt feature and sliding sunshade - Infiniti Studio on Wheels™ by Bose® premium audio system with 24-bit Burr-Brown DAC, single-feed 6-disc CD autochanger with MP3 playback capability, Radio Data System (RDS), and ten speakers, including 3-way component front door speakers with 10-inch subwoofers and a parcel shelf-mounted subwoofer - Infiniti Interface System for iPod® - Driver’s Audio Stage - Heated front seats (standard on G35x AWD) - 2-way power driver’s seat lumbar support - Memory system for driver’s seat, steering wheel and outside mirrors - Driver's seat, steering wheel and outside mirror position synchronization - One-touch auto-up/down rear windows with safety auto-reverse feature - Power tilt and telescoping steering column synchronizes gauge cluster with column for improved vision - Automatic anti-glare rearview mirror with HomeLink® Universal Transceiver and compass(compass not included when combined with Navigation Package) - Bluetooth® Hands-Free Phone System - Heated outside mirrors (standard on G35x AWD)

Re: From--- I love the 2008 Armada BUT [steveo1515]

by keg97 on Tue Feb 26 14:03:42 PST 2008

Here is the list of differences... 1) Nicer leather and interior appointments (a very noticeable difference in both my wife's and my opinions) 2) Better sound deadening all over the vehicle (see #13) 3) Longer warranty 4) HID headlights versus regular headlamps 5) More exterior paint/colors 6) More interior color choices 7) Add heated rear seats vs N/A 8) Body color rear splash guards vs Black 9) Electroluminescent instrument panel vs N/A 10) Burr-Brown audio upgrade vs N/A 11) rear camera has a slightly better view due to its higher mounting--less of the rear bumper in the picture 12) Chrome wheels and spare vs N/A 13) 400 lbs heavier--I assume more sound deadening and upgraded interior materials 14) Loaners provided when bringing Truck in for Service 15) Chrome side moulding vs. body color (plus fender flares?) 16) Leather center console top vs. rubber and plastic 17) chrome roof rails vs. satin finish 18) captains chairs seating easily available / split bench harder to find vs. split bench easily available / captains chairs nearly impossible to find 19) all windows auto up/down vs. only front windows auto up/down 20) real wood and aluminum interior accents vs. plastic and simulated wood interior accents 21) useless analog clock vs nice little cubby for something ipod sized 22) LED Tail/brake lights vs. Regular bulb lights 23) 3rd row seats matching leather vs matching vinyl 24) Engine tuned a bit for a few more HP & torque 25) 24/7 free Roadside assistance forever for original owner Personally...we just purchased a QX and love it. Is it worth the money over the Armada? Depends on your definition of "worth" it? You get most of the QX in the Armada, but you don't get the subtle luxuries. We wanted those and they are well worth the added $$$ for us!

Re: Clunk [don14813]

by obyone on Tue Sep 16 16:27:51 PDT 2008

Driveline - Bump/Clunk/Squawking Noises Bulletin No.: 01-04-17-004B Date: January 05, 2005 TECHNICAL Subject: Clunk, Bump or Squawk when Vehicle Comes to Complete Stop or Accelerating from Complete Stop (Replace Rear Drive Shaft Nickel-Plated Slip Yoke) Models Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add Cadillac Escalade (Old Style) to the Models section. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-04-17-004A (Section 04 - Driveline/Axle). Condition Some customers may comment on a clunk, bump or squawk noise when the vehicle comes to a stop or when accelerating from a complete stop. Cause A slip/stick condition between the transfer case output shaft and the driveshaft slip yoke may cause this condition. Diagnostic Tips There are several resources in the electronic Service Information System which can provide the technician with information on diagnosis and repair of clunk conditions, and fix the customer's vehicle right the first time without unnecessary parts replacement. Some of the documents available in SI include: ^ Symptoms - Propeller Shaft ^ Knock or Clunk Noise ^ Rear Drive Axle Noises (SI Document ID #700580) ^ Launch Shudder/Vibration on Acceleration (Replace Propeller Shaft and Install a New Pinion Flange/Seal), Bulletin # 02-04-17-001 ^ Information on 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise, Bulletin # 01-07-30-042 ^ Driveline Clunk When Stopping (Reprogram Powertrain Control Module (PCM), Bulletin # 03-07-30-028 Correction Replace the rear drive shaft slip yoke with a new nickel-plated slip yoke. See the parts table below. Follow the service procedure below. 1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist. 2. Reference mark the propeller shaft to the pinion flange connection. Important: Do not pound on the propeller shaft yoke ears. Never pry or place any tool between a yoke and a universal joint. 3. Remove the bolts and the yoke retainers from the pinion flange. 4. Slide the propeller shaft forward and out of the rear pinion flange. 5. Lower the rear of the propeller shaft and pull the driveshaft out of the transfer case. Note: Never clamp propeller shaft tubing in a vise. Clamping could dent or deform the tube causing an imbalance or unsafe condition. Always clamp on one of the yokes and support the shaft horizontally. Avoid damaging the slip yoke sealing surface. Nicks may damage the bushing or cut the lip seal. 6. Support the propeller shaft in a line horizontal with the table of a press. Important: Remove the front slip yoke and the universal joint together. The new nickel-plated slip yoke comes with a new universal joint. 7. Disassemble the snap rings by pinching the ends together with a pair of pliers. 8. If the ring does not readily snap out of the groove in the yoke, tap the end of the cup lightly in order to relieve the pressure from the ring. 9. Place the universal joint so that the lower ear of the yoke is supported on a 30 mm (1-1/8 in) hex head socket or a 27 mm (1-1/16 in) socket. 10. Place the J 9522-3 on the open horizontal bearing cups. Press the lower bearing cup out of the yoke ear. 11. If you do not completely remove the bearing cup, lift the cross and insert the J 9522-5 between the seal and the bearing cup you are removing. Continue pressing the bearing cup out of the yoke. 12. Rotate the propeller shaft. Press the opposite bearing cup out of the drive shaft yoke. 13. Remove the old slip yoke and universal joint. 14. Inspect the retaining ring grooves for dirt, corrosion, or pieces of the old ring. 15. Inspect the bearing cup bores for burrs or imperfections. 16. Clean the retaining ring grooves. Corrosion, dirt, rust, or pieces of the old retaining ring may prevent the bearing cups from pressing into place or prevent the bearing retainers from properly seating. 17. Install the new nickel-plated slip yoke and universal joint. See parts table below for parts information. 18. Remove the bearing cups from the universal joint. 19. Assemble one bearing cup part way into one side of the yoke. Turn the yoke ear toward the bottom. 20. Assemble the cross into the yoke so that the trunnion seats freely into the bearing cup. 21. With the trunnion seated in the bearing cup, press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup is flush with the yoke ear. 22. Install the opposite bearing cup part way into the yoke ear. 23. Ensure that the trunnions start straight and true into both bearing cups. 24. Press the opposite bearing cup into the yoke ear while working the cross all the time in order to inspect for free unbinding movement of the trunnions in the bearing cups. Important: If there seems to be a hang up or binding, stop pressing. Inspect the needle bearings for misalignment in the bearing cup. 25. Press the bearing cup into the yoke until the bearing cup retainer groove is visible over the top of the bearing cup. 26. Assemble the bearing retainer in the retainer groove. 27. Continue pressing until both retainers can be snapped into place. 28. If the retainer is difficult to seat, the yoke can be sprung slightly with a firm blow from a soft-faced dead blow hammer. 29. It may be necessary to lubricate the snap ring with a slight amount of chassis grease so that the snap ring seats in the bearing cup groove. 30. Install the slip yoke onto the output shaft in the transfer case. 31. Align the reference marks on the pinion flange and the propeller shaft. 32. Install the yoke retainers and bolts. Tighten Tighten the yoke retainer bolts to 25 N.m (19 lb ft). 33. Lower the vehicle Parts Information Parts are currently available from GMSPO. Warranty Information

Re: VW Touareg2 package [charmco]

by charmco on Mon Jun 30 21:58:52 PDT 2008

Pls. help to chose better variant: I variant- V6 with Biege Cricket leather seat+bi-xenon light+17" "Makalu" disk +"burr walnut" decor+leather steering wheel with wood rim. II variant V6 with fabric Trail seat +air suspension+18" Valley disk +"Macassar "decor+leather steering wheel +Silver roof rails and roof profile strips. All other options are same.

Re: Annoying Rattle [mmelone]

by trailhiker on Fri Jun 13 18:26:40 PDT 2008

I had thought the TL was a great car from a good Manufacturer. When I purchased my 08 TL from the dealer McDavid Acura in Plano, Tx is when my problems began. Besides numerous rattles, there was a factory paint defect on the rear quarter panel and the dealer was promptly going to "touch it up" which they did a good but that has been the ONLY good thing about this dealer and getting problems fixed. When they had the car to touchup the paint, they got overspray on my TL from another car they were painting, they used a razor blade scrapper that had a burr on it to remove the overspray from the front windshield and ruined the windshield, had to replace the front windshield. They also returned the car to me covered with the overspray and they told me to wipe the car down with paint remover to get it off (I had the car for only 1 week )! While they were fixing the windshield, they dropped a tool on the center console and dented it which they replaced. Somehow whey they were fixing the rattles, they disconnected something on the SRS system and I started getting error messages that the SRS system failed. I had the dealer tint the windows and all 4 side windows have since scratched and the dealer will not fix it (said it is the way the car is designed and was not intended to have tinted windows but did not tell me that when I bought the car). Now since it has gotten HOT outside, the A/C makes a loud sound like air being let out of a tire and is extremely annoying. The dealer said this is normal. Needless to say I am very unhappy with Acura, the dealer and this has been the worst car experience I have ever had. I have talked to Acura Client Relations for assistance to get repairs of which I have received very little help from them. The best thing to do if there are problems on a new TL is to keep after the dealer until they fix the problems. Do not accept the response that it is normal or that is the way the car is designed if you suspect a problem. Most of these problems are well known by the dealers but getting they to repair them, even when you show them a TSB about the problem, can be frustrating. This is certainly not the quality or service I expected from Acura being this is my 2nd Acura. My 1st Acura was almost problem free. I am sure other TL owners have not had this much trouble. There has just been a comedy of errors since I purchased the car and has just been a bad overall experience. Good luck with your dealer and your repairs.

Re: Mods: Can we get this forum back on topic? [shinng]

by dwynne on Mon Jun 02 08:10:35 PDT 2008

My only problem with the base model is that you can't add any options to it - none. So no moonroof, no premium pack, no sports pack, nothing. Yes, you DO get a G coupe and 99% of the folks on the road will never know it is the base "stripper" model. But not only do you miss out on all the goodies now, my fear would be the car would be hard to move as a trade or sell it yourself with nothing on it. The difference at invoice between a base and a journey is just $687. For that much extra you get dual zone auto climate control (the lack of this is a dead giveaway to a base car) and the CD changer. You also get the "right" to then add options - like a moonroof for another $1k (well worth it) or the premium pack. The premium pack is pretty much a must-have for me and while it is expensive has a lot of stuff in it: Premium Package : - Power sliding tinted glass moonroof with one-touch open/close, tilt feature and sliding sunshade - Infiniti Studio on Wheels™ by Bose® premium audio system with Burr-Brown 24-bit DAC and Driver’s Audio Stage, single-feed 6-disc CD autochanger with MP3 playback capability, Radio Data System (RDS), and eleven speakers, including 3-way component front door speakers with 10-inch woofers - Infiniti Interface System for iPod® - Heated front seats - 2-way power driver’s seat lumbar support - Memory system for driver’s seat, steering wheel and outside mirrors - Driver’s seat, steering wheel, and outside mirror position synchronization - Power tilt and telescoping steering column synchronizes gauge cluster with column for improved vision - Automatic anti-glare rearview mirror with HomeLink® Universal Transceiver and compass - Bluetooth® Hands-Free Phone System[1] - Heated outside mirrors The BT works great and the moonroof is nice and to me the upgraded audio is worth it. Ipod interface, heated seats and mirrors, memory, etc, etc. Not trying to be a "non base snob" just how I see it. Note that the journey residual is usually 1% or 2% LOWER per IFS than the base car, so for the purposes of leasing the base car can be a little more attractive. Dennis