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Belden, Nebraska Auto Repair Shops

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Belden, NE Car Consumer Discussions

Best spark plugs for '92 SC DOHC - HELP!
by turtlecurls on Tue Sep 02 23:44:35 PDT 2008
I'm doing the wires & plugs in my new used 92 SC DOHC with 200K & no mods... It's my first attempt at plugs in 15 years & I'm lost. I'm planning to use Napa's Belden $30 wires. -- Does it matter if the plugs are generic or for the model? -- Is it good to upgrade to platinum or not (I'm getting different answers at the store.)? -- Is it best to stay with ACDelco brand that GM used originally. (My last car cared about the brand.) What are the best choice plugs to get? Napa has standard ACDelco 41-627 for $3.00 specific for these cars. Advance has a generic version of it, ACDelco 41-629 for lots of cars for $2.00. NAPA has platinum ACDelcos that will fit 41-808. Does anyone have any experience to offer in general or specific to these plugs? I'll like to do it on my day off tomorrow, went to get the parts today... Thanks so much!
Re: Totally OT: Plumbing woes [woodyww]
by roadburner on Fri May 16 21:21:50 PDT 2008
hospital grade power outlets?? I barely have outlets that work.! Hospital grade outlets aren't expensive; I paid @$20 for two- and they supply power to the entire HTS. Blue Jeans Cable??? Blue Jeans Cable sells excellent HTS cables and interconnects at very reasonable prices. Their Belden 12 AWG cable only costs $0.57/ft. The 10 "banana plug" terminations I used at the receiver end only cost $35. As a matter of fact, I didn't pay anything close to retail for any component in my system. As an example, I bought my subwoofer at a 20% discount plus free shipping from California(it weighed 82 pounds). I later found a $900 DVD player for $250. I knew what I wanted and I was VERY patient- and I saved a ton of money...
Re: Totally OT: Plumbing woes [roadburner]
by guss on Thu May 15 18:46:57 PDT 2008
I "had" to reconfigure the home theater, so I went to 7.1 with a Denon 2808, Blue Jeans Cable/Belden speaker cable, Tripp Lite Isobar and Powerbar surge suppressors, and hospital grade power outlets. You lost me at home thater :confuse: I am sure it is a nice system, but I am trying to not pay attention to the latest and greatest in large screen tvs. the largest tv I have is a 27", and if I ignore the large screens maybe I can keep the itch away for awhile. Thanks gb for the tips on the S60, it is only 15 minutes away from my office , I'll try to get over there at lunch to take a peak at it. My Escapre has 82k miles with a rwtiv of about $6700, so I would not be laying out alot of cash to move up to a car with the same number of miles and age.
Re: Totally OT: Plumbing woes [woodyww]
by roadburner on Thu May 15 16:11:06 PDT 2008
Last year I gave my wife the go-ahead to remodel the kitchen. We ended up ripping out a wall as well as installing an island, granite countertops, and a full compliment of Bosch and Miele appliances. Cost? Don't ask. That said, removing the wall meant that I "had" to reconfigure the home theater, so I went to 7.1 with a Denon 2808, Blue Jeans Cable/Belden speaker cable, Tripp Lite Isobar and Powerbar surge suppressors, and hospital grade power outlets. The truth be told, the original kitchen was 30 years old and way past due for an upgrade. And my wife is so happy that she doesn't bat an eye when I buy "upgrades" for any vehicles in the fleet...
Re: RPM GOES DOWN WHILE DRIVING [jam65]
by imidazol97 on Sat Jan 19 12:38:57 PST 2008
Miles on the car? Maintenance? Has fuel filter been replaced? Fuel pump? Spark plugs been replaced in last 30-40K miles with exact AC plugs recommended by book at auto parts store? Plug wires if over 80K or 8 years on them need to be replaced with OEM quality wires, AC/Delco, NAPA Belden, etc. Since it sounds like it's happening at higher speed and when car is warm it could be a coil or electronic spark control module which I've read some having to replace. But my most likely would be the plugs or wires. I'd have to feel the push back. have you had the car scanneda at one of the auto parts stores to see what code you're getting? Does it do the same thing in 3rd at a proportionately lower speed--same speed on the tachometer? To fix remember you have to diagnose first. You can spend a lot of money throwing parts. Assume the easiest and most likely causes first. I had a problem with a 93 where under load, light such as slight uphill on interstate, I would feel a slight push back like a light misfire or EGR valve not working right. Plugs wires didn't fix. EGR seemed okay. Later GM had a PROM reprogram that adjusted the lockup speed for the TCC and I'm sure trimmed the fuel slightly and it was gone. The TCC didn't lockup at the low speed in 4th. I think it was about 5 mph higher before it locked up, like 52. Go see if there's a misfire code stored without setting the SES light on by having it checked. You can always run a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel system cleaner through also. Have you tried changing fuel? Changing to midgrade, i.e. or changing brands for a couple of tank fills.
Re: 97 Buick Park Ave. Stutter & battery drain [chey_59864]
by imidazol97 on Sun Dec 31 07:35:40 PST 2006
How do you believe the PassKey II system is draining your battery? Is the service ngine light steady or flashing? Steady means there's a problem with a code stored in memory and flashing means a serious problem that needs to be seen and fixed. If your car is as serious as you sound, it needs to be diagnosed with a code scan and then fixed. It could be transmission. Stuttering sounds like wires and plugs need replaced with quality replacements--not pop culture stuff from the box stores. Get AC Delco plugs and AC Delco wires or Belden from NAPA. Get Original Equipment quality on the wires. If they haven't been replaced in 60K miles, they're due. If could be ignition coils. It could be the ESC that controls the ignition coils (I believe it's right under them). It could even be your battery and connections at the battery not supplying adequate voltage. There are many connections to remove, clean, and check. When was the battery last replaced? Does the voltage drop into the orange zone during cranking on the voltage gauge inside the car? It should stay up in the clear area meaning the battery is supplying enough power under load. You didn't mention number of miles or kilometers and any history on the car. Are there any other symptoms? Losing water out of the reserve tank? Overheating? It could

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