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Butte, MT Car Consumer Discussions

Navigation System

by djasports on Tue Nov 18 10:59:57 PST 2008

Does anyone know how to disengage the navigation safety feature? It is a pain in the butt having to stop on the highway just to find a gas station. Thanks

2008 Chrysler Aspen

by djasports on Tue Nov 18 10:58:39 PST 2008

Does anyone know how to disengage the navigation safety feature? It is a pain in the butt having to stop on the highway just to find a gas station. Thanks

Re: Quality [circlew]

by lemko on Mon Nov 17 11:09:43 PST 2008

Not only that, but Caddy might be made by Toyota, Honda or Hyundai very, very soon! Yeah, just what we need. A modern day Packardbaker. Yuck! I can picture a Camry with an eggcrate grille, a wreath and crest on the pignose, and vertical taillights somehow grafted on the Bangle butt.

Re: older stuff on craigs... [lokki]

by Mr_Shiftright on Sun Nov 16 11:06:29 PST 2008

You forgot to mention "ugly". :) But there is a butt for every seat as they say, and this car does have a small following. Personally I don't see it worth a dime over $12,000, but some price guides are giddy at $20,000. They might be confusing it with the 1979 W72 10th anniversary coupe, which is also ugly but brings more money (more rare, and more substance).

Re: Price paid [bvr1]

by csandste on Sat Nov 15 19:34:50 PST 2008

Sounds pretty good for an EX. FWIW, the remaining 08's should get big discounts as the 09's come in. I really don't like the 09's styling as well. Has a sixth generation (?)--(two back)-- Honda Accord butt. It's not 1999.

HERE IS WHAT I WENT THRU TOOK ME 3 DAYS

by pla4kps on Fri Nov 14 18:13:00 PST 2008

"i have a 97 cherokee with a 4.0 that's not getting any spark. i have replaced the coil and checked to see its getting power (my test light will light up on GREEN / ORANGE and when i flip the tester to + i have ground on GRAY / WHITE just not while cranking) i visually inspected the cap and rotor and checked injector pulse. all the gauges work on the dash and the info cluster. all the fuses are good under the hood and in the vehicle. the fuel pump kicks on fine. any idea's ?? i was told that if the crank sensor is bad then the 3 wires should test 1 as a ground 2 should have 8 volts and 3 shold have between 0.3 volts and 5.0 volts but when i tested it with my volt meter i was getting between 5v and 0.3 v on one wire and between 3 and 4 volts on the other so i replaced the crank sensor because it should have 8 volts on that wire but it didn't solve my problem. so i have also pulled the codes ( key on key off key on key off key on and count the blinks of your check engine light between pauses, if you have a digital odemiter it will tell you the codes) and they are reading 12_54_55. 54 being the cam sensor which is inside the distributor on this model and year jeep aka sync signal generator and its called the IGNITION PICK UP COIL at your local parts store, and swapped it out then took sandpaper and some contact cleaner and went thru every relay under the hood. then i disconnected the neg. batt terminal and removed the coolant reservoir and pulled the 3 plugs from the pcm checked the terminals and tested the gray / white wire (-) from the pcm to the coil itself to make sure it wasn't damaged AND now i start and run beautifuly. WHAT A PAIN IN THE BUTT!! here is another idea below that may also help you and the link to a jeep site that explains your vehicle sensors and how they work. good luck http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/engine/154_0608_1987_jeep_wrangler_xj/ind- ex.html Short story long: I have a 96 Grand Cherokee 4.0L, 125,000 miles. Several weeks ago, I started to have stalling issues. Hot or cold, dry or wet, first drive of the day or last, it didn’t matter. The engine would cut out. It felt like it lost all electricals. At the time it was showing an ASD relay code. Swapped the ASD and A/C relays. Same problem. I didn’t have time to look at it, so I had the dealer go through it. After 2 days and $200, they called and said it was the ASD relay, and that they put in a new one, and it’s all good. Um, ok, maybe I missed something. I’m a trusting soul, but let’s see if this fixes it. The next day the problem was back. I went back to the dealer and they basically said, “We don’t know what it could be, good luck with that”. Now my wife knows why I don’t go to the dealer. By the way, the old relay tested good. My turn. Being the methodical aircraft mechanic that I am, I grabbed a multi-meter, contact cleaner, and wiring diagrams. I cleaned connectors, ohmed out wires and sensors, checked for power and grounds. Everything checked good. By now, it’s showing ASD, crank sensor, and primary ignition codes. Then, with my wife trying to start it, I wiggled the connectors on the PCM. Every time I wiggled the gray C3 connector just right it would run. When I let go, it would die. So I took the connectors apart and tightened up the crimps (I don’t recommend doing this without the proper extractors and crimper). Threw it back together and BAM! Same problem. Well, time to bite the bullet and check for bad solder joints on the PCM board. I took the cover off of the PCM and realized that looking through the potting compound is like looking through Guinness Stout. But, I put it back in and hooked it up. It started stronger than ever, and didn’t even think about stalling. Yes! I figured that I finally got the connectors sorted out, so I left it over night to cool down. Got up the next morning and it started right up and wouldn’t stall even when wiggling the connectors. So I put the cover back on, put the PCM back in, hooked up the connectors, and BAM! It wouldn’t start! That was the point when my wife asked, “How’s it going?” And I, being the methodical aircraft mechanic that I am, said, “what the ----?” That’s when my wife turned around and went back into the house. While smoking a pack of cigarettes, I thought, “Gee, it runs with the cover off, but not with it on.” DUH, wonder what it could be? So I backed out the two screws that hold the cover on and BAM! It started right up. Then, while it was running, I tightened the outboard screw and sure enough, it died. Yes! Aircraft mechanics love it when they can make things stop working. I installed new screws (1/4” long, factory screws are 1/2” long Torx head), and she’s been running great ever since. Now, will this fix a bad crank sensor or idle air motor? No. But it is an easy trick to try before going to the dealer and having them throw expensive parts at your Jeep and seeing if any of them stick. Just back out the cover screws about 1/8”-1/4” (don’t worry, nothing will fall apart inside). If it fixes it, great! Spread the word. If not, use logical trouble-shooting steps. Learn the systems – what will and what won’t cause the problem. Good luck. As a side note, if you want to see a service manager’s eyes pop out of his head, tell him that you want your money back because your not going to pay them to trouble-shoot a design defect. It’s a glorious sight.