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Sounds like someone trying to sell his new book. :) Meanwhile I'm selling one of my snowboards. Not enough white stuff on the hills to need two in rotation. The nice thing about the ice caps not shrinking as much story is that the tech is available to be able to measure such stuff (in this case the weight of glaciers and ice caps). Ice caps not shrinking as much as once thought, new data show (Christian Science Monitor)
3s has 2.5L engine and it is rated only 20 mpg for city for its 5 speed manual. I have a 2012 3s AT with 2.5L engine. I usually fill up when low gas indicator comes up with about 12-12.5 gollon. Assuming this guy is getting 220 per 12/12.5, he is getting about 18 mpg. This is not to far away from the rated 20. I am getting about 250 miles per 12/12.5 gollon, roughly 22 mpg right at the mpg rating for city but I am actually doing 50/50 city/highway. I bet I'd get much lower mpg than 22 if I go city only. I am not complaining about my mpg performance since I go up-and-down hills a lot daily. If CEL is lited, you may have miss fire going on in the engine. If you are all of a sudden getting much lower mpg than before, you'll need to bring in your car for a check.
totally agree with your comments. We have a 4000 lb 2010 Buick and the 3200 lb 2012 Sonata. City mileage very close on both cars since we have the same terrain with both cars. 20-22 on Buick and 20-24 on Sonata. The variation depends on amount of stop and go not speed. The big difference is the highway MPG. Speed also is the biggest factor on the highway but the Buick is 28-29 and the Sonata is 35-38 totally dependent upon speed if no big hills. The 20% difference is totally driven by weight & speed IMO. So we agree with your conclusion. The EPA #'s must be some freeway or not stop and go that affects all cars except the hybrids that are also lower weight across the board. Changing your driving route to include more freeway (if available to you)will do more to increase mileage. The averages posted are driven by the specific conditions mainly in city driving that affects the actual versus EPA.
The software is my main beef. I have it in writing not to install it and they did. Now the car drives like a regular civic but with more fuel consumption. My car actually regenerate going up hills. That is worse than no battery assist. They really messed up. I think Heather is trying to help. She won't get rich on the 15 bucks.
To address some comments above....I did buy the car on the promise of high MPG. Anyone who says that MPG was not a factor is not being honest. Here are some of my observations. Yesterday I believe I finally figured out why I am not seeing the MPG ratings I expected on my 2012 Hyundai Elantra. Some of you will probably say that you’ve known this all along while others will imply that I must be stupid for not figuring it out sooner. All I can say is that I have not seen a post that clarified things for me in this manner. Also, I am slow sometimes so bear with me. I left the office yesterday afternoon at about 3PM. It was sunny and 53. Just as I got on the highway I reset the MPG and drove the 23 mile Inter-county Connector home. My home is just off the ICC, one mile and 2 lights. While on the ICC I put the cruise control on and set it for 59. Low and behold, I finally saw that elusive 40ish MPG. It ranged from 38.7 to 40.2 and rose and fell with the ups and downs of the highway ( it’s not a level drive at times ). As soon as I got off the ICC, on that final 1 mile to my house, the MPG immediately fell and by the time I parked I was in the 36 range. The following morning (very early) I reversed the trip. It was 35 degrees outside. By the time I reached the ICC (again only a mile away) my MPG was 34.6. I set my cruise control to 59 and on this 23 mile drive reached a 35.1 MPG. After thinking about these results I have concluded the following: 1. 40 MPG is possible in fact you’re likely getting it on your highway drives. Unfortunately, it is being obscured by the absolutely horrible city/local MPG 2. The city/local MPG is likely WAY under the conservative 29 estimate and could be as low as 18 to 20 MPG. That’s right a tiny car like this may only be getting 18 to 20 in the city…how is that possible? 3. Every organization that is testing the car, as well as many posters here, is focused on the wrong MPG rating. It’s the city/local driving MPG that is causing your overall MPG to look so bad. There is also to much focus on point in time trips instead of everyday commutes 4. It does not take much city/local driving to completely trash your overall MPG. Just look at the impact from that 1 mile drive from the ICC to my home. Or look at the impact from minor hills on the ICC (a brand new and relatively flat highway) 5. The colder the weather the worse the MPG seems to be. Why didn’t my MPG recover to 40ish the following morning? Clearly there was more highway MPG to offset the city/local MPG, right? I conclude that the highway and city/local MPGs must be lower when it’s cold. Perhaps significantly 6. The car appears to have no intelligence when it comes to creating or maintaining MPG. If it did, I believe I would not see such a dramatic fluctuations from hills or from one mile of local driving 7. The ECO mode should do a better job of offsetting the “Lead” foot syndrome. Does not take much of a press of the pedal to achieve a big reaction in RPM Now this is by no means a scientific test but it does help me to rationalize my results. At this point I guess have to accept that my average MPG will not be as high as expected for my driving situation. I do, however, remain hopeful that MPG will improve as we move into the warmer sprint/summer/fall. I also hope this information forces the conversation to focus more city/local MPG and why is it so bad for a tiny lightweight car. I will always feel that Hyundai, and other companies are using puffery and misinformation to mislead consumers by emphasizing unrealistic MPG ratings that are not consistently achievable by most drivers unless they are at the 100% highway level.
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