Hoping for the best - Beware of catalytic converter
By ams5db on
2007 Nissan Altima 2.5 S 4dr Sedan (2.5L 4cyl CVT)
I bought a 2007 Altima 2.5S 4-cyl from a private seller in July 2011. It had 117,000 miles on it, mostly highway. The car was in great condition and I even had it inspected at a shop before buying it. About five days after driving it, the check engine light came on. I thought there couldn't possibly be something wrong with it already, so I manually turned the light off and waited...two weeks later, it was on again. The catalytic converter was the problem and I had it cleaned out, but was told that it still may need to be replaced. Everything was fine for about 3 months, but the CE light just came on again at 121,000 miles. I don't want the engine to get ruined, so I'll have to fix it asap.
Dual temp controls
Roomy interior and trunk space
Heated leather seats
Door lock/unlock button on front driver's and passenger's side (no need to search for the remote to perform this action)
Built-in code reader for diagnostics checks
Auto-tinting review mirror
Excellent turn radius
Windshield fogs too easily during rainy days
Center console rattles when someone is resting their arm on it - very annoying
Settings for defrost are configured so that the AC automatically turns on and you have to remember to turn it off. You also can't defrost with just the "recycle air" button on and not the AC - if you push the recycle air button, it automatically turns on the AC when
the defrost setting is on. You can turn off the AC button, but that also turns off the recycle air button, so you have to defrost with the vents open and exhaust coming into the car, unless you want the AC on in the middle of winter. :( Very confusing and annoying.
I have now spent about $700 replacing both oxygen sensors and having the catalytic converter cleaned out, but the check engine light is STILL ON. I decided that replacing the cat would be a last resort option, since it is so expensive ($1,000). I checked the codes again and now it is showing Fuel level Sensor Circuit Low Input along with the cat code. I guess I'm going to have to take it back to a shop for more work. >:( This is really getting annoying. The car drives well and I enjoy driving it, but it seems to have too many sensor issues. It's like I can't go more than a few months without taking it to a repair shop and that's just way too frequent.
I also want to add that the TPMS (Tire Pressure Monitoring System) sensors are a hassle! I had a flat tire from a nail, so I had the tire patched. After the tire was remounted, the TPMS light in the dash would not turn off. I had the sensors of all 4 tires checked and was told that none of them were damaged and were working properly. I don't know why the light stays on, but I've researched online and it looks like the only option is to have the dealer reset it (who knows how much that will cost). I've asked around and, apparently, none of the independent repair shop mechanics know how to fix the problem.
Also, the drivers seat is a bit uncomfortable for short people. The seat part seems longer than normal car seats. Since I'm only 5'1, the edge of the seat diggs into the backs of my knees and I have to slide down in the seat sometimes to extend my legs, which makes it hard to drive. So, I just have to be uncomfortable.
Under Suggested Improvements, I want to ammend that to say the AC button and Recycle Air button are a hassle with any setting, not just the defrost setting. You can have the AC button on without the Recycle Air on, but not vice versa.
This is a nice car, but the maintenance is expensive. I've only had it for 5 months and I've already had to clean out the catlytic converter ($250), will need to replace CC (~$700-800), and reset TPMS sensors ($100?). I'm hoping that's it for a while, but if it ends up in the shop too many times, I will consider selling it. Other people who mentioned having to replace the engine may have had a bad CC that they didn't fix. I read that the CC in these cars will destroy the engine if not replaced quickly.
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