Letters to the Editors
Send a letter to the editors

Subject: "Comparison Test: 2006 Pontiac Solstice vs. 2006 Mazda MX-5 Miata"
From: Dan

I never write in response to an article that I read, but I just felt like I had to write with regard to your "Comparison Test: 2006 Pontiac Solstice vs. 2006 Mazda MX-5 Miata" by Scott Oldham. Even though I was lucky to obtain a Solstice recently, I tried very hard to remain neutral while reading your article. Well, it was very hard and occasionally funny.

Sorry! With all respect but do your "experts" have any eyes? The Miata is (and always was) a "mommy's fun car," maybe improved compared to older versions but a far cry from the classy appeal of the Solstice!! This is my very first GM car ever and hey, maybe the Solstice will turn out not as reliable as a Miata, but believe me, I'd rather have it break down a few times on the interstate than drive a still very feminine Miata.

Again, I would not have responded at all to your obviously biased comparison, but this time I really suspect ulterior motives, because nobody in his/her right mind would have the Miata come out on top in this silly comparison. Superior top design? Who cares if the car looks like a sleeping pill? Well, maybe I'm biased, too…maybe because people stop in awe everywhere I drive or because bikers show me the "V" sign in appreciation; even a police officer once stopped me to ask about the car. Do you perhaps realize now how silly your comparison is? OK, I am surprised, too, that GM came up with something like that, but hey, I'm glad it's an American company for a change. Aren't you?

I couldn't disagree more with your assessment.


Subject: "Top 10 Tips for Traveling With Dogs"
From: Sharon

While I agree with the use of the harness on our four-legged best friend, I have to say shame on you for showing the picture of the dog in the front seat of the convertible. Our dogs as well as our children should be seated in the backseat due to the chance of the passenger side airbag being deployed upon, as was mentioned in the article, "sudden braking or impact." If this were to happen, the odds are your canine friend would be killed or extremely injured. If you really love 'em, keep 'em in the back.

You're certainly right; children and pets should be kept in the back…except that this car is a two-seater. It's the harness that keeps the dog safe, especially since the passenger-side airbag can simply be disengaged in most new cars — just check the owner's manual. — Ed.


Subject: "Top 10 Tips for Traveling With Dogs"
From: Amy

Hi, I really enjoyed the article "Top 10 Tips for Traveling With Dogs" by Joanne Helperin. I have a Porsche 997 (the car used in the article) and would love to get a seat cover like the one that was photographed. Can you tell me where I might purchase one or how I could contact the owner of that car to find out where they got theirs?

The seat cover was made by Bell, and you can probably find it at Pep Boys. Most stores have a chart listing what size cover works best on different vehicle models. The owner of the car (which was actually a Boxster, by the way) chose this cover based on its quality and color. He says that it's still performing well after six months of use. — Ed.


Subject: "Top 10 Tips for Traveling With Dogs"
From: Mark

What brand of seat harness do you recommend? I'm looking for something that's durable and easy to use. I'm thinking of getting a Miata, but I would need a seat harness to let Cocoa (my chocolate lab) ride with me. Also, what car were you in (for the pics in the article)?

While we don't test dog harnesses (we're busy enough testing cars), the dog's owner did check out several harnesses before purchasing the Four Paws brand. We would recommend it because it's simple and well made and allows you to clip the harness to the leash before exiting the car.

The car in the article was a 2005 Porsche Boxster. (We like that brand, too.) — Ed.


Subject: "Interior Motives: The Basics of Interior Detailing"
From: Anonymous

Dry, wadded-up newspapers clean the windows up better than terry towels, and might I also recommend a steam buggy for cleaning cracks and crevices of the interior. I also find an old toothbrush and a razor blade helpful for cleaning auto interiors.


Subject: "10 Steps to Buying Auto Insurance"
From: Brett

When discussing liability limits, you said to weigh your assets to help determine how much coverage you should get. You left out a major problem. A person can have their income attached for 40 years and a lien on their house if a major lawsuit happens. After you have reached your liability limit this could very well happen; that's why folks buy umbrella policies. With auto insurance, you should purchase as much as you can afford or fits into your budget. Going the way of minimum is very bad and your article will be very misleading and inaccurate for all who follow it. Next time, do your homework.

Let me guess, you're an insurance salesman. There is risk in driving, risk in living. How much risk do you want to take yourself and how much do you want to pay someone else to shoulder? That's our point. — Ed.


Subject: Buying a Leased Vehicle Before the Lease Expires
From: Torrey

Is it possible to purchase your leased vehicle before the lease is up? And if so, does it make sense to do so? I have two leased vehicles that are well under the allowable mileages at this point and I have already decided that I want to keep them. They are financed through NMAC. I am looking to buy them right now and to shorten my overall financing period. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I have not made my intentions known to Nissan.

You are allowed to buy your car for the "residual price" written into your lease contract. As the lease comes to an end, you should check Edmunds.com's TMV for the current market value of your car. If the market price is higher than the residual price, then you can get a bargain. If you want to buy your car now, contact the finance company and ask for a buyout price. You will need to see if buying it early will make financial sense or if there are additional fees that will push the price up. Depending on the finance company, the buyout price and some related fees might be negotiable. And don't forget that you will have to pay sales tax, too. In extreme cases you run the risk of paying sales tax to the finance company and again to the state when you register the car. — Ed.


Subject: Demo vs. Used
From: Debbie

When does an automobile go from a "demo" to a "used" category? I am looking at a Volvo XC90 with about 6,500 miles. Is this used or a demo? What type of discount can I expect to get on the auto with options? They have it listed at $46,000.

There is a gray area when assessing the value of a "demo." It has not been registered so the dealership will want to tell you that it is a new car. However, there is wear and tear on the vehicle, as well as 6,500 miles. You have not included the year of the car. If we have it in our Used Car TMV, evaluate it accordingly. If not, evaluate the car as new, then subtract a certain amount per mile, say 15 cents. Also, deduct some money for wear and tear. Deduct these figures from the TMV new price, not from the dealer's asking price. — Ed.


Subject: "10 Steps to Leasing a Car"
From: Pat

This was a good article. But I was amazed that you missed an extremely important point.

There is no mention of "gap insurance." I am sure that you are aware of this. But just in case, I will explain it.

The car is devalued in a major way as soon as you drive it off the lot. If you were to total it in the first couple of years, the insurance company is only going to pay market value. You could end up with a huge "gap" between what is owed on the lease and what your insurance company will settle for.

This isn't a fantasy. It could be a real problem. We are customers of a major auto insurer (Geico). They verified this, and said that they could not offer the additional coverage.

We recently leased a Scion tC for five years. The dealer offered to sell us gap insurance for approximately $20 per month. This would have been $1,200 over the term of the lease. I was able to find the same coverage online for about $325.

I never knew anything about all of this until I leased the car. It had never occurred to me, and I really did my homework. It is an important issue, and one that consumers need to be aware of.

Otherwise, as a certified car junkie (I grew up in Detroit), I always enjoy your articles. Keep up the great work.

Thanks for the valuable information. As you point out, gap insurance is a must in leasing. Some contracts include gap insurance, while others leave it up to the customer to arrange. As you point out, shop around for a good price on gap insurance. If, in a moment of weakness, you buy gap from a dealer, you can cancel the policy and buy cheaper gap from a large insurance company. And by the way, we didn't forget: Gap is mentioned in Step 9. — Ed.


Subject: Top 10 Lists
From: Lynne

Your top 10 lists are a fantastic tool in helping me locate vehicles that would fit our crazy lifestyle, since I feel we've outgrown our current vehicle. You're saving me a lot of time in my research by compiling these lists and doing your research! Thank you!!!

I am in the market for a new vehicle. My husband and I have three kids — one 13, one 2, and one 2 months. I currently drive a Jeep Cherokee Sport and I know what it feels like to be a sardine when we all go somewhere as a family. I am trying to convince my husband that we need to upgrade to a bigger vehicle. One of my arguments is that I want something safe but with more room.

On that note, I have been trying to find ratings on the vehicle that I drive, as far as crash tests, overall safety, etc. Do you have any information that might help, or can you direct me to where I can find it on the Internet? I think my Jeep is so old that it's just not out there. I sure haven't been able to find it!

I have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee Sport, four-wheel drive.

Any help you can offer would be appreciated. Thank you in advance!

Thanks for your feedback, Lynne — we're glad you find the top 10 lists useful.

The 1996 Cherokee Sport scored a "Good" rating (the second-highest of five possible ratings) in NHTSA frontal-impact crash tests. Edmunds.com offers crash test ratings and other safety info for most vehicles. Check out this page for more safety info on the Cherokee Sport. — Ed.


Subject: Cars for Seniors
From: Dennis

Where would I get a list of the best cars for seniors? I'm planning on purchasing early this year.

You'll find some great recommendations in our recently published "Top 10 Best Cars for Seniors in 2006." — Ed.


Subject: "Carmudgeon — No More Classic Muscle Cars"
From: Frank

Karl, I completely agree with you on the inflated prices of the classic muscle cars. I have been watching the Barrett-Jackson auction and my jaw dropped when I saw some "enthusiast" pay $205K for a 1969 Z-28 Camaro. I, too, would rather have the new Ford GT and would have a ton of money left over for gas. At least I would not be afraid of driving the thing on the road, for goodness sake.

As far as drivability, there is no comparison. Recently I had the opportunity to drive a "built" 1956 Chevy two-door post with a 350/350 engine. This was a just restored four-speed cream puff and was a cherry vehicle. I tell you what — give me a new Mustang GT any day. That Chevy was a handful just to drive. Between the racing clutch, no heater or A/C, no power steering and the bench seat I came away disheartened.

The asking price on the little Chevy was a mere $29K. Sure, the Chevy may not lose its value, but at least I could drive the Mustang GT across the country and enjoy the drive. To cut it short, I think some of us baby boomers have too much money and want to relive the past no matter what the cost. I say just forget it and enjoy the rattle-free interior and the cupholders.


Subject: "Carmudgeon — No More Classic Muscle Cars"
From: Roger

You wrote the following about classic muscle cars: "Needless to say, these modern-day muscle cars can absolutely decimate the classic versions, not only in performance but in drivability, reliability, comfort, build quality, material quality and audio quality."

I guess you have never been behind the wheel of a balanced and blueprinted 1970 Ram Air IV GTO with 4.33 gears and the close-ratio steering box.

My GTO also has the 621 Ride/Handling package along with the larger sway bars and springs for drivability and performance. As far as comfort, my GTO rides like a Cadillac, and the Morokide interior was absolutely beautiful.

Much nicer than any Mopar interior, so maybe your comments were directed to the Mopar fans.
You forgot to say the modern-day muscle cars also depreciate faster than a used boat.


Subject: "Carmudgeon — No More Classic Muscle Cars"
From: Bruce

I sold my 1957 Bird (standard shift-overdrive and dual quads) last year which had been around the family for close to 50 years. It went along with a '64.5 Mustang convertible and my '76 Cadillac Eldorado convertible. I did very well financially, no capital gains, but found that the new BMW M cars, Benz AMGs and Mustangs fit my older lifestyle much better. They can be driven daily without additional collector's insurance, are under warranty and everything fits. The paint and interiors are far superior and there is no comparison relative to the running gear. Also, no more storage with bad gaskets and tires going out of round.

Like you, I tubed Hemmings and have resolved my buying preferences to new performance automobiles. The only drawback is that they depreciate for a long time. The classics appreciate.

Could it be that I am older and slower moving, maybe?


Subject: "Carmudgeon — No More Classic Muscle Cars"
From: George

Three years ago I sold a 1971 Chevelle Malibu with a non-original engine block, rusted-out rear-quarter panels and trunk, and a severely dented front fender to a co-worker for $1,700. It drove like a truck and was a magnet for dumb guys. I was seriously worried that some dumb guy would wreck it and then sue me, so I was happy to sell it to someone I know. One of the major attractions was that the Chevelle had enough space under the hood for a "big block." My observation that even with a lowly 350 V8, punching the accelerator does more to twist the frame and spin the tires than propel the car forward didn't deter the dream of dropping a 454 in it. Handling could have been described as "plows like a John Deere." Despite obvious performance limitations, people have offered my co-worker $6,000 for the same car after basic bodywork and a new paint job. Even at the low end, the classic car market has gone crazy.