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The city of Duluth, Georgia is part of multiple counties. The current county selection is Fulton. However, you may choose from the following alternatives

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My 2006 Limited deal in the Raleigh-Durham area (part 3)
by drquality on Sat Feb 04 12:45:54 PST 2006
And the Fitz experience confirmed it -- when the deal got messier, so to speak – locating the car, PPOs, hinting at a trade, etc. -- the sales force (er, the “consultants”) lost interest and the deal started to unravel. But if you are willing to buy a car under the conditions I listed above then I expect you will be pretty “satisfied” by a dealership on the “Cabinet” list. At minimum, consider getting a quote from them … it is probably not going to get too awfully much cheaper than what those lots will offer via phone/email on a cash basis. I called a number of them (across the US, not identifying my location) to help me get a fix on what the initial offer and dealer walkaway price might ought to be. They were good numbers for a place to start figuring from. Here’s the Cabinet’s List from the Toyota website, in ranked order: * Longo Toyota -- El Monte CA (LA metro area) * Toyota of Riverside -- Riverside CA (LA metro area) * Molle Toyota -- Kansas City KS * Ft. Myers Toyota -- Ft. Myers FL (Naples / Southwest Coast area) * Atlanta Toyota -- Duluth GA * Miller Toyota -- Manassas VA (DC metro area) * Beaman Toyota -- Nashville TN * Toyota of Puyallup -- Puyallup WA (Seattle-Tacoma metro area) * Libertyville Toyota -- Libertyville IL (North Chicagoland) * Maroone Toyota -- Davie FL (Ft. Lauderdale/Miami metro area) * Fitzgerald's Lakeforest Toyota -- Gaithersburg, MD (DC metro area) * Toyota of San Bernardino -- San Bernardino CA (LA metro area) I also took a stab at a number of the smaller, more rural dealerships in the area (on and off lot), but, generally speaking, I ran into a lot of highballing, sweatboxing, “come on down,” “bait and switch” attempts (there is a gob of markup/margin in the Southeast region Special Edition vehicle and one dealer tried to switch me into it at delivery … I walked) … and other such tactics that just wasted a lot of my time. So, looking back, I would recommend following tstrick320’s distance-bidding approach … after first checking ultra-high volume lots to make sure you have an idea of where the low bid ought be … and be sure to include some high and ultra-high volume dealerships if possible. Expect the best Limited deal to be about invoice plus $150 … unless it is the SE region, in which case it would be closer to invoice plus $850. If it is not an ultra-high volume lot … and the deal becomes more than a quick cash turnover (as with mine) your going to end up closer to invoice plus $1400 … the number toyodlr’s post suggests. Some other advice: If you cut a deal off-lot, and they don’t stick to the deal when you hit the lot, save yourself some time and frustration and just walk—the deal you thought you had was never there. Also, be clear that you are negotiating total delivered/OTD price, less only TTT, throughout your phoning/emailing/dealing/negotiating. It IS possible I left some money on the table along the way [Perhaps I might have priced in the SET fee when it was already built in elsewhere (though I think not, based on the digging I did) … or perhaps I shouldn’t be letting the dealer “off the hook” for the last $575 so easily and logically.] But I ended up with a dealership that could handle the PPOs hassle-free, and if I ended up with a dealership that I can trust in day-to-day dealings, that knows what it is doing in the shop and that remains customer-oriented throughout the ownership experience … well, it’s probably still a very good deal … for me. If you follow tstrick320’s distance bidding approach, and do some homework in advance to double-check the low bidder, you’ll probably “flush out of the brush” any extra monies I might have left behind and get your best deal. I dumped a lot of info in this post ... some of it took me a while to discover during the dealing ... in the hope that it shortens your learning curve and snags you your best deal. Happy hunting !!
Atlanta - 2005 Corolla CE with auto $12,496 + fees DEAL!
by happynewowner on Sun Jul 03 10:31:18 PDT 2005
$12,496 Car Price + $599 doc fee= $13,095 out the door! Add taxes, tags and such for your county or state. The current $500 rebate which expires 7/5 was assigned to dealer for that price. Yes, I think $599 doc fee is ridiculous but that is about the rate in Atlanta Metro. Oh, well. Just bought a spankin' new 2005 Corolla CE with auto (No other options) from Atlanta Toyota which is Duluth, GA off I-85. It's in their weekend ad and they had 15 at that price. The $500 rebate was used and assigned to the dealer. Their Sunday ad states 10 left for $12,654 so I assume that will be their current price but if you take in the Friday or Saturday ad you never know. The BEST and EASIEST new car purchase I have ever made by far! (This was a cash purchase though.) I just showed the ad and picked out my color and I was done. No haggling! --- No hard sell for anything. They only mentioned financing, gap insurance and extended warranty. Yes folks those ad vehicles do exist. The absolute best part was getting the many quotes from carsdirect dealers. I loved being able to email them back that I already bought FAR below their quotes. Their quotes were all for $700-$1200 over what I paid. Oh, what a FEELING! I hope I've helped somebody get a good deal too. Have a happy and safe 4th!
XLE FWD pkg #6-Minneapolis]
by jhamilton on Wed Oct 20 18:11:50 PDT 2004
MINNEAPOLIS,MINNESOTA.... I have a quote of $32,000 from Toyota dealer in Burnsville for the 2005 XLE front wheel drive with package #6 for $32,000. The invoice she gave me was $34,000 something. Anyone here that knows if this is a good price? I really like the saleswoman and would like to buy from her, but don't want to pay too much. I am willing to drive to Duluth if necessary to get a great deal. Also found a used 2004 with similar options with only 12,800 miles on it from a private sale, but it is an AWD and I'm not sure about the little smell of sulfur as you turn the car on and off coming out of the engine. It goes away as soon as you get going, but seems odd. Seller said he had asked the dealer about this and they told him it must be the brand of gas that he's using. Guess I'd be switching gas if I believed this to be true. Sounds like bunk to me. Seller says he has bought a new Sequoia to replace this. Thanks for your help!

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