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Re: 1998 Subaru Legacy/Outback Deal or No Deal? [paisan]
by xwesx on Mon Sep 17 11:30:40 PDT 2007
Is this one a Limited? What is your region? I was going to pay 5K for a '96 Outback (not limited) in Anchorage this spring, but the seller jumped ship when I mentioned that my price agreement was contingent upon inspecting it to verify no head gasket leaks or severe oil leaks from the cam seals and valve cover gaskets. I thought everything was in order, drove to Anchorage, gave the guy a call, and found out he had sold it to somebody else the day before. I suspect that buyer was stuck with a car with "issues." '98 is two years newer and about the same mileage as this '96 was, so I could see paying 6500-7000 for it up here in Alaska. Since it is with a dealer, you might get stuck paying a bit of a markup. 10,000 KBB?! I keep falling back to thinking it must be a Limited (leather seats, dual moonroof, etc). Maybe not, though. If the headgaskets and transmission are in good order, the car should serve you well. Do not pay too much heed to the "I could sell it for..." nonsense. Figure out how much it is worth to you, offer that, and if the dealer can get more for it, it will be sold to someone else. If not, he will come groveling back to you.
Re: Buying a Forester in AK [daveit]
by smittynyc on Wed Jan 10 14:26:16 PST 2007
Let's just back up for a minute here -- are you positive they are giving you a quote on a manual 2.5X? Not one with the premium package? Because the MSRP on a Forester 2.5X manual, even with Alaska destination, shouldn't be more than 22K. If it's not a premium package, is it loaded with every other possible OEM option as well as some added by the dealer? I know you're in a captive situation, but FWIW, a Forester 2.5X manual can be had for under $19K here. I'd double-check the specifics of the car the Anchorage dealer has. I'd be okay with paying a little bit of a premium given where you are, but $5K more? A skosh under $20K seems fair to me (rebate included).
Buying a Forester in AK
by daveit on Wed Jan 10 13:45:39 PST 2007
Well, I should have bought a Forester instead of my Honda CR-V. I realized that I really don't like the way the CR-V handles. It seems to need to slip before kicking in the AWD. So, now I'm looking at a new Forester. It looks like the trade-in for my CR-V is around 17,800. I owe about 13000 on it still so I won't be losing any money. I'm in Anchorage so no sales tax. They like to jack up the prices with all kinds of crazy fees since we live in the middle of nowhere. They are currently asking $23965 for a Forester 2.5 X with manual. The Edmunds TMV is showing $21849 minus the $1500 would make it $20349. Do you think they will give me that price? Should I try to go lower? When I called and talked to a sales guy he told me that his sales manager was motivated because it's a slow part of the year. Subarus are in high-demand up here, but so are CR-Vs. My CR-V is an EX model so it's better-equipped that the X. I'm looking at possibly buying this weekend so I'm anxiously awaiting you replies. Thanks.
'07 Basic manual in Alaska
by xwesx on Fri Jan 05 19:42:33 PST 2007
Well, considering that I was forced to do this search/negotiation under, perhaps, the worst possible conditions (aside from the fact that it is -30F today!), I think I did okay. The market up here is limited, with only two dealerships in the state. The Fairbanks dealership, after confirming that they would not seek a manual Basic from Anchorage and that there was not one en-route to Fairbanks, gave us a price of $23611 (OTD) for a manual 2.5i... which is a whopping $600 off MSRP. I contacted Anchorage regarding a manual Basic and managed to get them to 22125 (pre-incentive, title, fees) with crossbars, floormats, and mudguards (color coded) but with none installed... so, $378 over invoice (TMV for zip 99501 is listed on Edmunds as $22,533). OTD price was $21706. I made a calculation error when I was figuring the accessories, as I "wanted" to hit ~$250 over invoice. Basically, they flat refused to drop the sale price below $21706 so I decided to add the accessories I would be putting on it anyway in order to come closer to the price I sought. So, with the cost of flying to Anchorage and driving it back, the total cost to get it home is ~$22,000. If it had been a situation where I could have piggy-backed the trip down and had time to drive it back up I would have looked more seriously at the L48. "Feeler" prices I was getting from Washington were not enough less than the price I negotiated to justify the flight, lost income, drive up, and the time it would take to do it all. There will be other opportunities. But, I have not actually paid for nor picked up the car, so if someone has a compelling reason to talk me out of it - speak up!

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