Indiana Mercedes-Benz Car Dealers

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IN Mercedes-Benz Car Consumer Discussions

MY DEAL: by rkatz1949 on Fri Mar 28 06:07:00 PDT 2008; JUST MADE THE FOLLOWING DEAL TODAY: C300 LUX 4MATIC, #1PREMIUM PACK,IPOD,ARTIC WHITE;MSRP $37,700; 39MONTH,15,000/YR $0 DOWN,TAXES AND BANK FEE ROLLED IN; DEALER PICKED UP LAST TWO PAYMENTS PREVIOUS LEASE($479EA) DEALER PICKED UP RETURN FEE($350) FIRST MONTH PLUS REGISTRATION AT SIGNING $564.70/MONTH IS THIS GOOD ,BAD OR UGLY ? COMMENTS PLEASE

Re: So Cal 08 GL450 price paid [bugati]: by bmwconvert on Fri Feb 08 13:03:49 PST 2008; I meant that, all else being equal, getting a good deal on an SUV when entering the winter months (or really, right prior to winter months) is tougher. Not this year -- it was over 60 degrees in NYC this past wednesday. Regarding the all else being equal --- it's not. The economy is hurting and dealers are worried about being able to move cars. I'd bet you can get a great deal. After a LOT of negotiating, Benzel in Englewood was willing to sell the car at invoice. To those quoting MSRB less some dollar amount, that doesn't help anyone because who knows what your msrb was?? msrb is exactly 7% over invoice, so quote it percentage off of msrb or percentage above invoice so everyone knows what you're talking about. It wouldn't surprise me if some can find a vehicle below invoice, given a lower demand color and/or option package (it'll have to be a P1). There are tons of P1's out there, but relatively P2's that aren't loaded with thousands of dollars of other options as well. ADVICE: AVOID THE MB-TEX SEATS IN MACADAMIA. They suck. 3 weeks after delivery, they get discolored. Salesman said it's from blue jeans and there's nothing to do about it. I will never buy another mercedes with that material. Pay up for the leather.

Re: Nov program! [miker]: by jeffreyds1 on Fri Nov 09 19:44:48 PST 2007; Tire insurance for $560? Sounds fishy. Does it cover wear and tear or just accidental damage?If you get one I am curious to see your deal ie Sticker price and total capitalized cost (that is what dealer sells car to MB Credit for plus add ons like acquisition fees taxes tire ins etc) Also cost of money factor you get and the residual used for 24 mos. I think you can get them to discount the car to dealer invoice. They have about 7% markup on these before hold back.. There might be other dealer incentives the get from MB, but kinda early in the model year to see that. I wish I had someone who knows this. I would be thriled to pay $650 and pay 1st mo and aquisiton fee up front for 24 mos!

Re: reply [britcrlvr]: by delta737h on Tue Aug 14 17:25:29 PDT 2007; brit, You couldn't be more wrong. No dealer has ever taken advantage or has had the upper hand with me. How could they? I don't mean to be boastful or arrogant; but I know more about lease financing than they could ever hope to know. For instance, I know exactly how GMAC and Ford Motor Credit computes lease payments. Most people don't. In fact, I don't know of anyone who does! I often see some of our hosts telling people to convert the GMAC rate to a money factor to get an estimate of the payment. ESTIMATES or BALL PARK DOESN'T CUT IT! They'll get you close but they are not good enough for a lease proposal. At least, not the ones I create. Try doing the following experiment... Choose any GM dealership at random and ask the GM or F&I guy how GMAC computes lease payments. I promise you they won't know. The only thing they know is what their computers tell them. That reflects poorly on them. And, you think they're going to have the upper hand over me? YOU MUST ALWAYS IN CONTROL OF THE DEAL. When you make a statement like... "...you have already played your hand, and they have the position over you. It would be better for you to wait and let the dealership make the first offer. as you insinuated stupidity has no limits." it speaks volumes about you. It certainly shows your inexperience because it clearly illustrates that you don't have the knowledge or confidence to negotiate with dealerships. The key to negotiating with dealerships is DON'T NEGOTIATE. No offense, but your statement is a billboard that says you're inexperienced, brit. One often hears the advice to keep trades and new car transactions seperate. That's only because most folks are inexperienced. Your approach is used by a lot of people because they're inexperienced. Heck, if I were inexperienced, I'd be doing the same thing. For example, many people will wait for the dealer to make an offer on the lease payment. And then, they counteroffer. BIG MISTAKE! NEVER EVER NEGOTIATE PAYMENT IN A LEASE. That's EXACTLY what dealers want you to do. ALWAYS negotiate sell price. And, above all, know how to calculate lease payments. Otherwise, you're dead in the water. To be honest, I'm not interested in what they have to offer in terms of sell price and couldn't careless! I've done my homework and know exactly what to offer in terms of sell price. I've checked multiple sources and have factored in supply and demand, customer and dealer incentives, MSRP/invoice pricing, holdback, spiffs, etc. I routinely FAX/email a very professional looking one page lease proposal. In fact, several people in other forums have used my proposal as a template to negotiate their leases and have done so very successfully. For instance, below is an example of a lease proposal constructed by yours truly. And even though the numbers aren't aligned, they are in my word document. Every number was calculated by me; not the dealer. NEVER EVER let the dealer do ANY calculations. Do them yourself! And, you had better be spot on; otherwise, you're going to look very foolish. 2007 Acura TSX Retail Pricing Information Base MSRP 2007Acura TSX 5 Speed Automatic (CL9687JW)��.�� 28,090.00 Premium Pearl White��.��.� 0.00 Destination Charge��.��.�� 670.00 MSRP��..��.�...�� 28,760.00 Agreed Upon Value��.�� 26,700.00 Amounts Financed 1st Month�s Payment�� 361.71 Security Deposit��.. 375.00 Acquisition Fee�� 595.00 Sales Tax @6.00% x 35 x 329.77��.��.. 692.52 Capitalized Costs Gross Capitalized Cost��.�� 28,724.23 Capitalized Cost Reduction��.��. 0.00 Adjusted Capitalized Cost�� 28,724.23 Residual Data Residual Factor��..��.��. 0.62 Residual Value (Residual Factor � MSRP)��..��.��.�.� 17,831.20 Cost of Money/Term Money Factor (0% reserves)��.��.��.�� 0.00127 Term (months)��.�� 36 Lease Payment Itemization Monthly Lease Payment including Sales Tax��..��.��.��.� 361.71 Monthly Lease Payment excluding Sales Tax��..��.. 340.99 Taxable Monthly Lease Payment�� 329.77 ________________________________________________________________________________- - - - - - - - - ______ Charges Payable at Lease Origination License, Title, Registration Fees (estimated)��.��.��.�.��. 120.00 Amount Due at Lease Signing��....�. 120.00 GAP Coverage Included Annual Mileage Allowance: 10,000 Disposition Fee: None Excess Mileage @ $0.15 per mile Reg. M Disclosure: NA ______________________________________________________________________ All that remains, assuming the dealer accepts, is to transplant the numbers from the proposal to the lease contract. It should be clear that the purpose of a proposal is to save lots of time, save money, and eliminate aggravation. I call the dealer soon after I�ve FAXED/emailed my proposal to review it with them. Should they ask silly questions such as how I arrived at the agreed upon value, I politely tell them that it is irrelevant. What is relevant is whether or not they can do the deal. THE ONLY RESPONSE I WANT TO HEAR IS EITHER: (A) YES, WE CAN DO THE DEAL OR; (B) NO, WE CAN�T DO THE DEAL. THERE IS NO NEGOTIATING! So tell me; how do they have "position" over me? If they say no, I simply FAX/email the proposal to another dealer... pretty easy, huh? If they can do the deal per the proposal, I ALWAYS make sure that they are in complete agreement with every last bit of detail described. Nearly every number on that proposal must be transplanted to the lease agreement. If it's not, I won't sign. I want to make it virtually impossible for them to claim that they made a mistake once I�ve arrived at the dealership. If they say that they made an error once I�ve arrived, they�re going to look awfully silly. In that case, I remind them that the purpose of this exercise is to prevent mistakes, save time, and eliminate aggravation for all concerned. Unless they can remedy their mistake quickly, I tell them that I�ll be taking my business elsewhere and thank them for wasting my time as well as their's. The GM of a dealership once told me he forgot the tax on the bank fee. I reminded him that there is no tax on this fee in the state of Ohio. Unfortunately, some dealers will will try to get away with as much as possible. I walked and they lost a sale. I have zero tolerance for dishonesty and/or incompetence. I hope you can better appreciate my approach.

Re: Need advice on 2006 ML350 purchase [kim128]: by 04350 on Sun Jun 10 17:15:36 PDT 2007; You're still upside down but should be OK in about 4 years, depending on the length of your new loan and if you keep this vehicle and don't put a ton of mileage on it (ie., 25000 miles per year or more), during that time.

Re: need help - Retail Installment Sales Contract [erawat]: by gagrice on Mon Apr 16 20:42:27 PDT 2007; You should already have an invoice with all the charges. That should be given to your CU to cut a check for the dealer. He is not going to let you out the door without the money from your bank or CU. It sounds like they are doing a loan. Then you would have to pay off the loan company along with a months interest or more. Better talk to your CU before you sign anything. I buy out of state most of the time. I take the money with me and have all that in writing before I get on the plane. It is real risky just going a long distance and finding out they are going to try and charge you more than agreed upon over the phone. I hate phone deals anyway. Get it IN Writing or email.

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