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2009 Sport w/ Manual Shift in Boston Area
by pi_man on Thu Aug 13 16:02:39 PDT 2009
Was looking two weeks ago and sent email requests for out-the-door prices (recommended by these forums) to about 6 dealers. I was trading in my 2000 MPV (157K miles) as Cash for Clunkers. Got a good price from Tully Mazda in NH ($11,653 + TTL + all-weather mats + rear bumper plate), but since that was a hike, waited to get more prices. Nobody else really gave me a good price. Friday morning I called and the car was gone. There were questions whether CfC would get more money, plus MA tax rate was going up, plus the $1750 Mazda rebate was ending, so I wanted to do it. More calls during Friday and found only one available 60 miles away. The dealer said that he had a customer willing to pay $12,900 for it, so that was it. The next week Congress gives another $2B and I'm back in the market. I check Mazda inventory within 50 miles on the website and there are 10 with manual shift. This past Friday I send some emails back to the dealerships again. This time I get a response from Ira Mazda (20 miles away) with an OTD price of $18,160. I respond back that I'm doing CfC, so I subtract the $4500 + $500 from Mazda, plus the difference in Sales Tax, and it is less than $12,000, which I think is pretty good since I thought the $1750 went away. I send him my figures and he agrees. I'm waiting to see if more dealers respond. I talk to a different NH dealer (Werner Mazda) who had 2 available, but he wants $500 over list because he says the list price is going up for the 2010's so he feels he can get the increase early. I told him I was not interested because I already got a much better price. Wellesley Mazda is the closest, but they want $17,000 + $444 doc fees (ignoring the CfC component). I'm getting antsy because I don't want to lose the Ira car too, so the next day I drive up and end up getting it. The deal was even better because I (and the internet guy) didn't know about the $150 you get for the salvage value of the clunker. It ended up being right around $11,670 + TTL. The salesman was busy but he was good. I'd recommend them. Just picked it up today, after the dealer got the authorization for CfC. Since I am transferring plates, I still have to go back one more time to pick up the registration and sticker (and for them to install the bumper step plate since it had to be ordered). Checked the Mazda inventory website again, and it still shows 10 available Manual Shift, so I don't know how accurate it is. (Hope this message wasn't too wordy)
Money Factor July Mazda 3 Sport
by kushalsherpa on Tue Jul 21 06:40:27 PDT 2009
Considering to buy a Mazda 3 Sport (Manual) in NH, i was wondering if the Money Factor changes according to the dealers or state or month? What is for this month? What's the Residual value for Mazda 3 sport, 36 or 42 month lease? All i want to do is drive mazda 3s with monthly payment around $179. How much down do i have to put it in? If someone could answers these questions i would really appreciate it !
Re: Extended warrenty on 2010 mazda3 [metsjets]
by shipo on Wed Jun 03 03:45:39 PDT 2009
My personal take is that extended warranties are a scam (even if the warranty company doesn't go bankrupt, something that most of them seem to do). In my case, I got suckered into buying an extended warranty (that went to 100,000 miles) on a car I bought in 1988 (which I happened to drive almost exactly 100,000 miles), and between the cost of the warranty and the $100 cap on a per service visit, the warranty ended up costing me more than twice what it would have if I had paid for the repairs. Since that time my wife and I have purchased eight cars, all of which were offered with an extended warranty (and all of which expired at no more than 100,000 miles), and we took a pass on every one. Taking the total of the warranty contracts that I didn't purchase (which doesn't count the per service visit charges), I come up with a figure of about $18,000. Against that, those eight cars have required about $4,500 in maintenance making for a savings of at least $13,500. Or does it? Of those repair charges, about $3,800 came when the vehicles had well over 100,000 miles on them which means that the repairs wouldn't have been covered anyway, and that means that over the last fifteen years I've saved over $17,000, enough to buy a new car. Long story short, an extended warranty may work out to the owner's advantage on any one car, however, I'm betting that over 99% of the driving public would make out better over their driving life if they simply self-insured. Best regards, Shipo
Re: [mujahidmd]
by shipo on Sat Mar 21 12:29:34 PDT 2009
The thing is, if you aren't willing to pay interest, then the only way to buy a car is to pay cash for it. Period, full stop, the end. Yeah, I know that some manufacturers are advertising 0% interest, however, all that really means is that you're paying the interest up front, or, said another way, it's a financing gimmic. The truth of the matter is that it costs money to borrow money, and somebody has to pay for those costs (i.e. the borrower). Case in point, when I bought my car in November, I was given the following three options: - 0.0% interest for 36 months - 3.9% interest for either 48 or 60 months - An additional $500 off the car if I paid cash Best regards, Shipo
Re: [mujahidmd] .9% vs. 0% Interest [zar1] [mujahidmd]
by shipo on Sat Mar 21 00:05:52 PDT 2009
There's a real simple way of avoiding interest; pay cash for the car. ;)
2009 3SGT
by jicbulk on Wed Feb 18 17:45:37 PST 2009
With AutoDim Mirror, Moonroof&CD No Downpayment, 36 Month lease $335/month Tulley Mazda in Nashua, NH I was just looking for a ballpark figure and they used Invoice price to figure this. Bottom line was that the car was going to be ~$22k. I ended up with a 2007 BMW 328i with 16k miles for that $.

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