Find Mazda Dealers in Columbia, Maryland

The process of buying a new Mazda car or truck can seem overwhelming if you don't know where to begin. Edmunds.com can get you started on the right track with a convenient directory of Mazda car dealerships in and around Columbia, Maryland. Compare online price quotes on the new or used car, truck, SUV, minivan, or wagon of your choice to locate the best deals. Edmunds.com makes it easy to find trusted Mazda car dealers in Columbia, saving car buyers time and money on what will be an important purchase.

Ourisman Mazda

3518 Fort Meade Rd
Laurel, MD 20724
(888) 581-2946

1 Sales Review
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Russel Automotive

6624 Baltimore National Pike
Catonsville, MD 21228
(410) 744-2300

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1 Service Review

Castle Mazda

3111 Automobile Blvd
Silver Spring, MD 20904
(888) 506-7766

9 Sales Reviews
1 Service Review
Heritage Mazda Owings Mills

11234 Reisterstown Rd
Owings Mills, MD 21117
(888) 451-3714

1 Sales Review
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Congressional Mazda

801 Rockville Pike
Rockville, MD 20852
(301) 424-7800

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Gaithersburg Mazda

625 N Frederick Ave
Gaithersburg, MD 20879
(800) 485-1354

1 Sales Review
1 Service Review

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Columbia, MD Mazda Car Consumer Discussions

Re: Is "Washington DC Assessment fe" really "profit"? [vancewade]: by jfritsch on Wed Jul 19 13:01:08 PDT 2006; (somehow that got screwed up)... Vance- I get 19,900 for the car and dest.(MSRP?) and your are paying 21000 ...over msrp? or even invoice? This seems way too high unless I am missing something and not good. Keep it simple MSRP,invoice (if you know it) and then offer(s) with all fees. Congrats on being froggy and faxing up to 400mi? round trip. Putting 10 -20 dealerships in a competitive bidding situation is the best way to get the lowest price on any commodity. Which is what new cars are. You should get 50 60% response rate Negotiating by phone # and talking to the Sales or Fleet Manager (not internet sales manager) 2-3 of them will prove to be the best and most eager. Emphasize to your responses you are getting bids from 10+ dealers and you are definitely buying before the month ends. You look forward to doing business with them. If they equivocate tell them you will definitely be buying by the end of the month and something like "Give me your best ""Im a sales manager who wants to book a low profit deal at the end of the month"" shot." Numerous may say what a waste of time it is.... they all pay the same price... etc. As a general rule its better to get the names of the sales/fleet managers and direct your fax directly to them. Then negotiate by phone, not email. They may handle it personally taking a commission to a salesperson off the table if possible (good for you) or delegate it. Get the number to their personal fax line or the machine closest to them (if it differs from the fax #on the website or dealer locator) Narrowing it down to the best 2 or so dealers before you even walk into a dealership is smart. In any event regardless of fees , if you find for example a NC dealer who bids 18,000 with all fees, and another who bids 18200 with all fees A is greater than B and the choice is simple, unless we have to drive 400mi to save $200... not cool. Getting the total emphasizing with ALL fees (itemized) and everything is good anyway lest we drive 200 mi and get a nasty $500 "Dealers daughter needs expensive dentalwork fee" or such by the F&I guy who knows you drove a long way and trys a fast one. Rare but not so rare either. DC assessment fees Ad fees Dealers Horsetrack losses fees Dealers Wife's restauraunt is going under fees Are all legal and legit (as long as they aren't discriminatory based on race religion or sex) They may be itemized, included in his offer hidden or non existent. If they want to compete they will drop the fees or lower the price and keep the fees. It doesn't matter What matters is lowest price OTD. (sales tax or hwy tax from your state is a constant) Bid one off the other and see if any are especially eager the last 4 days of the month with any callbacks. If one dealer proposes a 18000 offer + 600 in processing and title fees etc, this is obviously superior to a 18900 offer with no fees for the same car. (To get silly a 10,000 offer with $8100 in fees is the best to demonstrate a point) IF you truly get a standout deal far away and your requirements arent exacting obviously offer your business to get some of the locals to meet or beat it. Emphasize they will be stop one for all service (where most dealership profits are anyway) and to all they will get the highest customer satisfaction score for any surveys on this purchase you can provide. (Don't underestimate this) When you finally walk in to the 1-2 standouts don't be afraid to walk out and sleep on it. If they are close by. Especially if we have a few days left in the month (Anyone responsible spending a lot of money would do so no? , or "that Focus is a helluva lot cheaper and may meet my needs" )If they say the offer will vaporize, good for this minute only if you walk out, give a amused smile as you graduated kiddiegarten long ago) You may get a cell call within the next few days with a lower bid for your business, or a salesman stopping you in the parking lot with a lower offer. And you can always walk right back in and accept immediately or in a day or two. As long as its before "witching hour " (end of month). The mazda 3 sedan seems to be more popular than the hatch, and 1000 under invoice or more seems to be possible (especially the hatch). Many times dealers will let a few go for a no or low profit deal (or even a loss?) to savvy negotiators towards the end of the month of a popular seller to prove sales power and guarantee a continuing or increasing allotment of a popular seller. Good business sense. Numerous other reasons exist. Your canvassing a wide number helps you find the dealer(S) in such situations if they exist that month. Keep in mind that despite invoice, Msrp and advertised dealer inscentives being public, you have no idea what their profit is on a machine. In the last decade an increasing amount of profit on new cars has been in the form of unadvertised inscentives usually based on sales performance and customer satisfaction indexes. More than 70% of dealer profits come from used cars and the service dept. I sold cars for a number of years, and many times found myself responding to customer objections with (as I was trained) "We gotta make something on this". If I had a $20 bill for every time I made this remark I'd be retired, whether I grossed $50 or $3000 on the deal, depending on how I read the customer. Regards --jjf Just sent out faxed requests for bids to dealers a couple hundred miles in every direction from our home in North Carolina. Got what I think is a good bid from a Maryland dealer (details below, if anyone wants to analyze). But it includes a $240 "Washington D.C. Assessment fee" in addition to the $99 processing fee (which I know MD dealers charge). I can find no online reference to any such legitimate fee. In addition, I can't imagine why I'd have to pay anything to the District of Columbia when I'm buying a car in Maryland and when I live in North Carolina. I'd love to get everyone's feedback on whether this is legit. Here's the deal: 5-door, Mazda3 S-GT base price: $18,135 Sunroof/Bose/6CD bundle: $1,148 Wheel locks: $32 Destination: $560 Tag and title: $83 (including $15 MD temp. license so I can drive it back to N.C.) Processing: $99 Washington D.C. Assessment: $240 N.C. Highway use tax (this is def. legit; it's instead of sales tax): $632.07 Total out-the-door: $21,784.07 OTD minus tax, tag, title= $21,069 Thanks in advance for your insights. --Vance

Re: Is "Washington DC Assessment fee" really "profit"? [vancewade]: by jfritsch on Wed Jul 19 12:58:25 PDT 2006; Vance- I get 19,900 for the car and dest.(MSRP?) and your are paying 21000 ...over msrp? or even invoice? This seems way too high unless I am missing something and not good. Keep it simple MSRP,invoice (if you know it) and then offer(s) with all fees. Congrats on being froggy and faxing up to 400mi? round trip. Putting 10 -20 dealerships in a competitive bidding situation is the best way to get the lowest price on any commodity. Which is what new cars are. You should get 50 60% response rate Negotiating by phone # and talking to the Sales or Fleet Manager (not internet sales manager) 2-3 of them will prove to be the best and most eager. Emphasize to your responses you are getting bids from 10+ dealers and you are definitely buying before the month ends. You look forward to doing business with them. If they equivocate tell them you will definitely be buying by the end of the month and something like "Give me your best ""Im a sales manager who wants to book a low profit deal at the end of the month"" shot." Numerous may say what a waste of time it is.... they all pay the same price... etc. As a general rule its better to get the names of the sales/fleet managers and direct your fax directly to them. Then negotiate by phone, not email. They may handle it personally taking a commission to a salesperson off the table if possible (good for you) or delegate it. Get the number to their personal fax line or the machine closest to them (if it differs from the fax #on the website or dealer locator) Narrowing it down to the best 2 or so dealers before you even walk into a dealership is smart. In any event regardless of fees , if you find for example a NC dealer who bids 18,000 with all fees, and another who bids 18200 with all fees A1000 under invoice or more seems to be possible (especially the hatch). Many times dealers will let a few go for a no or low profit deal (or even a loss?) to savvy negotiators towards the end of the month of a popular seller to prove sales power and guarantee a continuing or increasing allotment of a popular seller. Good business sense. Numerous other reasons exist. Your canvassing a wide number helps you find the dealer(S) in such situations if they exist that month. Keep in mind that despite invoice, Msrp and advertised dealer inscentives being public, you have no idea what their profit is on a machine. In the last decade an increasing amount of profit on new cars has been in the form of unadvertised inscentives usually based on sales performance and customer satisfaction indexes. More than 70% of dealer profits come from used cars and the service dept. I sold cars for a number of years, and many times found myself responding to customer objections with (as I was trained) "We gotta make something on this". If I had a $20 bill for every time I made this remark I'd be retired, whether I grossed $50 or $3000 on the deal, depending on how I read the customer. Regards --jjf Just sent out faxed requests for bids to dealers a couple hundred miles in every direction from our home in North Carolina. Got what I think is a good bid from a Maryland dealer (details below, if anyone wants to analyze). But it includes a $240 "Washington D.C. Assessment fee" in addition to the $99 processing fee (which I know MD dealers charge). I can find no online reference to any such legitimate fee. In addition, I can't imagine why I'd have to pay anything to the District of Columbia when I'm buying a car in Maryland and when I live in North Carolina. I'd love to get everyone's feedback on whether this is legit. Here's the deal: 5-door, Mazda3 S-GT base price: $18,135 Sunroof/Bose/6CD bundle: $1,148 Wheel locks: $32 Destination: $560 Tag and title: $83 (including $15 MD temp. license so I can drive it back to N.C.) Processing: $99 Washington D.C. Assessment: $240 N.C. Highway use tax (this is def. legit; it's instead of sales tax): $632.07 Total out-the-door: $21,784.07 OTD minus tax, tag, title= $21,069 Thanks in advance for your insights. --Vance

Is "Washington DC Assessment fee" really "profit"?: by vancewade on Mon Jul 17 15:51:43 PDT 2006; Hi there, Just sent out faxed requests for bids to dealers a couple hundred miles in every direction from our home in North Carolina. Got what I think is a good bid from a Maryland dealer (details below, if anyone wants to analyze). But it includes a $240 "Washington D.C. Assessment fee" in addition to the $99 processing fee (which I know MD dealers charge). I can find no online reference to any such legitimate fee. In addition, I can't imagine why I'd have to pay anything to the District of Columbia when I'm buying a car in Maryland and when I live in North Carolina. I'd love to get everyone's feedback on whether this is legit. Here's the deal: 5-door, Mazda3 S-GT base price: $18,135 Sunroof/Bose/6CD bundle: $1,148 Wheel locks: $32 Destination: $560 Tag and title: $83 (including $15 MD temp. license so I can drive it back to N.C.) Processing: $99 Washington D.C. Assessment: $240 N.C. Highway use tax (this is def. legit; it's instead of sales tax): $632.07 Total out-the-door: $21,784.07 OTD minus tax, tag, title= $21,069 Thanks in advance for your insights. --Vance

Titanium 3's in high demand?: by rmjokers on Wed Feb 23 19:17:48 PST 2005; I went to a dealer asking for a 3s with automatic, moon roof, leather, ABS package in the titanium color. I was prepared to make a deal this evening, but I was told that there are no cars available in the region. There are more than 10 dealers with orders on this car and only 2 en route to dealers through shipping. The dealer offered to sell me a strato blue 3 without leather, but they said they would add after market leather for free. If I can talk them down a bit on price, is this a good deal? I am not familiar with after market leather. Also, I was curious if the car I want is really that hard to come by or if they were just trying to get me to buy a car off their lot. Anyway, I told them I would think about it so I still have time to make up my mind. I am between DC and Baltimore by the way.

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