Find Isuzu Dealers in Accord, New York

According to Carpoint I get 25,244 for the S 2wd. Carpoint has been within $10 of my dealers actual invoice on every isuzu I've checked. So I'd use carpoint as a reference over edmunds. -mike

You are gonna have a harder time negotiating a price if you opt for the 0% financing. Because Isuzu is providing it, the dealer then loses the 1-3% that they will make as a kickback from the traditional financing companies or Isuzu if they weren't offering 0%. Also a lot of people can get loans from their pension/retirement funds where they pay themselves the interest back, for those people the cash incentive will be better. Here is my formula for buying a car: Invoice price (according to carpoint/edmunds/kelly,etc, don't forget delivery charges) - Holdback (according to carpoint/edmunds/kelly, etc, only if you are ordering the car or the dealer ordered the car, not if a swap) + $500-$1500 (dealer profit, $500 for a low end car $1500 for $30K+ MSRP vehicle) = Total I am willing to pay the dealer for the car. That's basically how I work it. I understand the dealer needs to make a profit so I factor that in. -mike

as I explained on another board, there is a WHOOSH sound like a gust of wind under the car (really it's the sound of the engine racing, according to the mechanic) when I go uphill between 34 - 39 mph. This is due to a transmission problem where the car thinks it is going at a different speed/rpm than it actually is, and tries to "adjust" by "downshifting." What happens is a loss of power plus that awful noise unless I really floor the gas pedal to give more power. Now here is where it gets nasty: I took it to the dealer and it requires a 5 day wait to get the parts from Isuzu. They are willing to give me a loaner while they fix it (minimum 2 -3 days fixing time) but ONLY once it is in the shop under repair, and since they haven't gotten the part in yet, they don't want to accept the car. The reason this is bad is that I was told it is fine for local driving, but that it wouldn't be a good idea to drive the car long distances since the transmission theoretically could lock up. Unfortunately I need to drive to NY this weekend so I am still working on their supplying us with a rental car so I don't have to pay for one. Also forgot to mention that if I drive on city streets, if I keep the car in 3rd gear, it is fine even when going uphill @ those mph; it only makes the noise when the car is in "drive." The tech said that this is a MAJORIFIC fix. They basically have to tear apart the entire transmission to get to the parts that need replacing - he was worried that they might have to replace the whole transmission if tearing it apart proved too difficult. Fortunately this is not *my* problem! But I am disturbed that this car left the factory with the defect - this has been happening almost since day 1, but it took me awhile before I was systematically able to reproduce the problem for an accurate diagnosis. Will let you know how it goes. If anyone wants to try to reproduce the problem in their own truck: drive up a hill between 34 - 39 mph, putting your foot on the gas pedal only lightly.