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Tennessee Infiniti Car Dealers

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Re: First Time Lessee - Looking for Wisdom [geo15]
by dwynne on Thu May 08 09:06:56 PDT 2008
As user gforce11 says, you need to bargain down the price on the car first - then worry about the lease terms. You need to be within $500 of invoice price when you include the car, destination, and any dealer doc or prep fees. Leasing is Texas is not so hot since they tax the entire negotiated price of the car - the same as if you purchased it. However, some folks have posted that Infiniti and Texas (or one of them) have worked out a tax break on leases. The only way I would think about it is if I didn't have to pay full tax or if the rate was really, really low (like 1% or less effective rate). Dennis
Re: G37 Lease Offer - Thoughts?? [jeremyw]
by dwynne on Wed May 07 12:25:55 PDT 2008
I just assume the invoice increase was the same as the MSRP, since I no longer have access to the pre-increase invoice costs. So if the MSRP is $207 higher on "car a" than on "car b" that have the same equipment, just look up invoice on the current "car a" and make sure MSRP matches, then take off the $207 from the invoice to get "close enough" to the invoice on "car b". The G37 has more ponies but is heavier, so your net performance difference is not going to be that great. If you are buying, the sedan is several thousand less for the same equipment as the coupe - a MUCH better deal. If you are leasing then the higher coupe residual makes it closer in price. Net cap is higher but so is residual. I got a coupe because my kids are just about all grown and mainly because they can never find a 6mt sedan in the colors and equipment I want. They found the coupe just like I wanted (except it had splash / net / mat) in the right colors so I took it. The lease terms made it close to the same money per month as a sedan with the same options. If you are getting an auto tranny car, then I would just get the sedan I think. You get the CD changer (trunk mounted) and a lot more cabin and trunk room and wider seats (even with the sports pack). The stereo sounds better in the sedan than in the coupe, to me anyway. Still a fun to drive car without a doubt. I would have a sedan now if the everything had fallen in place, but I still love the coupe. Slightly more to insure a coupe as well. There are one or two more things missing from the coupe that you get on the sedan, but I can't think of what they are off hand. Dennis
Re: G37/G35 [gforce11]
by dwynne on Wed May 07 12:16:10 PDT 2008
That is true, you may find dealer dealing lower than VPP - for sure if they have a large doc fee. They may quote invoice or less then stick the doc fee on top to net out over invoice by a few hundred. Find a dealer (like mine) that has no doc fee and they will not offer prices that low (net) - they can't. Use a VPP claim code at a dealer that has no doc fee and that is the price you pay. VPP rules say the dealer gets to charge you their normal doc fee and can make you pay for dealer installed options that are on the car. They also can jack up the lease MF as well. VPP just covers the price. I would either find a dealer with no fee and use the VPP or just ignore the VPP and get the best deal you can that is less than $300 over invoice for the car, destination, and fee. Note that the dealer makes a 2.5% delivery fee if you use a VPP claim code, so selling you the car w/o VPP for $300 over or for VPP at $300 over should result is a good bit more profit if you used the VPP code. Dennis
Re: May IFS G lease numbers [jpasiczn]
by dwynne on Mon May 12 19:20:36 PDT 2008
$36,000 selling price, residual of $26,470.50, MF of 0.00131, for 24 months figures a payment of $478.90 . If you simply figure the difference between selling price ($36,000) and residual ($26470.50) you get $9,529.50, divide that by 24 and you get the principle payment of the lease at it is $397.07 per month. So your payment is way off. Depreciation Fee = ( Net Cap Cost – Residual ) ÷ Term Finance Fee = ( Net Cap Cost + Residual ) × Money Factor Payment = Depreciation Fee + Finance Fee Dennis
Re: Leasing question and 24 vs 36 month [sonofjay]
by dwynne on Mon May 12 16:42:12 PDT 2008
You don't show MSRP or what you are paying (without fees) or what equipment is on the car, so I can't run the exact numbers you did. So we will do just and example, a G35x with premium, net, and splash. MSRP is $38,030 and invoice is $34,862 and we will say the dealer will sell the car for $35,700 for the car, destination and dealer fee. If we look at the 24 month 0.00131 and 70% of MSRP for residual, I get $459.31 per month w/o tax and $482.27 w/5% tax on the payment. 36 month is 0.00150 and 60% of MSRP, I get $445.61 and $467.89 with 5% tax. So I don't know where you got your figures, but that is what I come up with. This would be leased at that price with the $595 bank fee and first payment due at signing plus any tags / title fees. You should be able to get the car for less, say $500 over invoice including dealer fees, which will make the payment less. Normally the 36 month is the sweet spot in the lease - the car is still under warranty and the initial depreciation is spread out of a longer term. In this case, IFS is running a special 24 month deal that makes it quite attractive to pay just a little more and have a 2/3 length lease (compared to 36 months). They have had promo 12 month leases in the past that worked out to be good deals, so you just have to run the numbers and see how it looks. Just ask the dealers if they mark up the rates, everyone that I ever asked that did - admitted it to me. When you contact the dealers in your area ask for a price on the car to include destination, ask how much their dealer doc/prep fee is, and ask if they mark up the lease rates. You have to know all this info so you narrow your choices down. You might also as if their cars have any dealer installed options. An old trick is to give a nice price on the car and when you come to pick one out you find they all have > $1k work of dealer options on it that they expect to tack onto the price of the car. We always say not to put much money into a lease since you can lose your investment if the car is stolen or totalled. You can sell your car to any other dealer, including those like CarMax or DriversWay. You can sell it to a private party. You can trade it to the dealer. Anything you get over the pay off in any case you should get in the form or a check. If you don't have much equity, say enough to cover the bank fee and the first month's payment then you could just it for that. Dennis
Re: G37 Lease Offer - Thoughts?? [jeremyw]
by dwynne on Wed May 07 08:59:16 PDT 2008
Price of invoice + $500 doc fee = price of $500 over invoice :D . I can't say for sure what the numbers will do, but times are slow for car sales I think and they are likely to keep the rates low and residuals high to move cars. Rather than turn the M in early and have to pay for it, could you not just keep driving it and get the new G ? Not a lot of overlap and if you picked up your new car at the end of the month you could drive all of June on the temp tag? Dennis

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