Oklahoma Infiniti Car Dealers

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OK Infiniti Car Consumer Discussions

Multiple Security Deposits: by ghstudio on Thu May 15 07:15:30 PDT 2008; Few know that Infiniti Finance allows you to "loan" them additional security deposits for the life of your lease (which you get back at the end of the lease)...and for that, they will reduce the MF by .0001 for each extra security deposit you leave them....maximum of 7. When I say few...I include the infiniti salesmen and in many cases the local infiniti finance guy. If you find a dealer who knows nothing about this, ask them to read their literature...this is offered as a standard part of the infiniti lease. For those in NY state, don't bother to read any further...NY does not allow multiple security deposits, sorry. In order to understand how this option effects your situation, you have to focus on the total cost of the lease.....and forget monthly payments. Most folks just want a low payment which is why you see all the ads with $3000 down and such...they are just playing with numbers. This applies to anyone who is thinking of making any capital cost reduction up front....or can afford to loan $2000 or so in security deposits to Infiniti for the life of your lease. It is a way to lower the total cost...and that's what you want. Few dealers even understand how this works....I am the only one in the past two years who took this option at my local infiniti dealer...because it's hard to explain and everyone is focused on the monthly payment which is financially wrong.(note: my dealer agrees with me, but it's too hard to explain so they don't push it). Here's how to understand this: Get a lease quote from your dealer with no money down at signing...just first month lease payment and taxes/title/registration....roll all other fees (dealer fees/bank fees/anything else) into the lease. Now add up your first payment plus all of the other payments to find out how much the total lease costs. Now ask the dealer to figure out the lease with multiple security deposits...(you can do up to 7 as long as the MF doesn't drop below 0). The payments will be lower as will your first payment...but of course you have to give them the MSD dollars. Add everything up...The initial payment, the rest of the monthly payments and add in the extra security deposits.....but then you get the security deposit back at the end, so subtract out that security deposit...and now you have the total cost of the lease. The total will always be less than the first case. Now take one more step because you say, I could have had that money in a bank (or somewhere) earning interest...but I gave it to Infiniti where they don't pay me interest. OK....let's assume you put the money in the bank at today's 3% (or pick your rate)....figure out how much you will earn in the bank...that's the amount you lose in this deal....so ADD it to the total cost of the lease. Are you with me? Your total cost is what you pay nissan..plus the loss of being able to get interest in the bank on those multiple security deposits. Finally, do the case that most dealers push.....now that you know the amount you would loan infiniti for Multiple security deposits which you get back, look at the case where you use those same $'s as a downpayment/capital cost reduction. Ah...the monthly price is much less, but now add up all the costs...this time you are adding your first payment which includes those extra capital cost reduction dollars, and then adding in the rest of the payments...you don't get any of it back. If you did all the above right, you will see that the no money down case is the most expensive, putting some cash in up front does lower the total cost of the lease a little, but the Multiple Security Case lowers it the most. Try it the next time you lease an Infiniti.....

Re: New M45X Purchase [fjd3]: by ghstudio on Thu May 15 06:18:26 PDT 2008; If you follow the recommended maintenance at your dealer, you probably got an OK buy. Personally, I refuse to pay for all the "inspections" that are included in the "standard" service packages...and I do what is needed. I do get the oil changed/lube at the dealer because the non dealers miss lube points....and I look over the "standard" mileage based package to see if there is something I really should do. I never never never put in additives...I even went so far once to make the dealer drain and refill the oil before I took the car because he put in an additive I didn't want. I do rotate and rebalance my tires...making sure they tighten them by hand...I've had too many rotors bent by power drivers. I don't care what they tell you, no tire shop I"ve ever seen actually tests their nut drivers....very few even know how. Alignments when needed. And I will do an alignment if I see uneven tire wear or feel the car pulling (could be brakes...l get both checked). This approach to maintenance costs me a lot less. For the most part, all these cars really need is changing the oil and lubrication, keeping an eye on things like belts/noises and taking some care of the tires. I have never changed brake fluid, radiator fluid, steering fluid in my life....but then again I never keep a car over 60K miles where you might think about doing all that stuff once...and you're into changing the timing chain type of stuff.

Re: First Time Leaser [skmiller22]: by dwynne on Tue May 13 12:50:52 PDT 2008; It is hard to say. I think I would just contact all of the dealers in a 100-200 mile radius from home and tell them what you want (model, options, colors) and that you are ready to buy now if they give you the right price. Ask that they quote you the car with destination and any dealer doc or prep fees included. Also ask if any dealer installed options are already on the cars they sell. If you are specific about what you want and that you want all these included in the quote you should be able to find a dealer that gets you close to invoice including fees - say within $500. If you find one of these and they have the car you want, then ask them again about any other fees and if destination and dealer fees included. If they say OK, then have them give you the lease numbers for the term you want. Look up the lease buy rate posted earlier this month in this thread and include that in your lease request. State something like "the top tier buy rates is 0.00??? for this model, is that what you charge?". Once you have found a good deal with a dealer that does not mark up the rate, then you are mostly ready to go. I would concentrate on price - car+destination+dealer fees first and not mention leasing at all. If you mention you want to lease they hit you with payments to cover up how much they are charging you for the car. Dennis

Re: Question for Dennis or any other "lease expert." [drjustin]: by dwynne on Thu May 08 16:56:25 PDT 2008; IFS / NMAC has a tier 0 which is 740+, tier 1 is 700-739, tier 2 is 660-699, tier 3 is 620-659, and tier 4 is 580-619. You need to be in 1 or 0 to get the top rate. The also are likely to use an "auto enhanced" score which gives more weight to paid off car loans and leases than to other debt - so your FICO or FAKO score may be higher or lower than the score THEY assign to you. That is actually a G35 journey with sports pack and not a sport - sport = 6mt. Residual is based on MSRP including destination. What is the dealer's doc or prep fee? If they say $600 over and then stick a big fee on top of the $600 then it is not so hot a deal. That car does not appear to me to be rare or hard to find, but $600 over if it included the fees would not be that bad. If I plug in your price, 59% of MSRP, MF, and 36 months into my lease calc I get $484.35 per month base payment with the $595 bank fee and first month's lease payment due at signing. I think OK is like Texas and charges tax on the full price of the car. So if your rate is 3.9% then $1,374.95 tax would be due. If I add that to your price I get $525.57 per month. So pretty close to what they have, but my payment would be with $525.57 + $595 due at signing, if you cut that down to $700 then the payment would go up. You have to learn how to figure this stuff out so you can check all the dealer's numbers and see where the money goes. Otherwise they can sneak stuff onto your deal and you not know it. We only see the top tier rates so "who knows" if the dealer is marking up your rate or not. You could try a deal with another dealer and see if they give the same rate. Dennis

Re: Tulsa, OK dealer [drjustin]: by dwynne on Mon May 05 14:51:37 PDT 2008; That is what can happen when you make a totally unrealistic offer. From your other post you are looking a journey sedan with sport and premium packs plus splash / mat / net with an MSRP of $37,935. Invoice on that car including destination is $34,655. Offering them $33k tells them you have no idea what the car costs or is worth. If you have offered them invoice + $0-500 then you might be close to getting a deal. Of course, some Infiniti dealers have really high regard for their cars and don't like to sell them without making a few thousand profit. So you may have to try several dealers to find one that will price the car right. You want to be within $500 of invoice cost (including destination) for the car, destination, and any dealer doc or prep fees. Dennis

Tulsa, OK dealer: by drjustin on Mon May 05 10:52:30 PDT 2008; wow, i can't get the dealer to work with me at all. they offered me the deal at whatever i had posted earlier, something around $36,600, and i countered with $33,000 thinking we'd eventually end up at $34,000. instead, they told me good luck and wished me well. oh well.......next dealer i guess? but this process is frustrating and i'm almost just as suited to keep the car i have.

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