Louisiana Infiniti Car Dealers

If you are in the market for a new Infiniti car or truck, your search should begin at Edmunds.com. Our expansive network of Louisiana Infiniti car dealerships gives car buyers the ability to start shopping for their new or used vehicle from the convenience of their desktop. Once you locate Infiniti car dealers in Louisiana, you can compare online price quotes to find the lowest possible rate. Whether you are interested in a car, truck, SUV, wagon, or minivan, the comprehensive listing of Louisiana Infiniti car dealerships at Edmunds.com is a great place to start.

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LA Infiniti Car Consumer Discussions

Re: g35 journey lease advice [kars08]: by straightdope on Tue Apr 08 12:41:35 PDT 2008; Hey Kars08, Just leased a G35 Journey Premium in So California last day of March. Don't have the paperwork with me now so I will post the exact lease figures here later. In short, the deal was: $379/mo + $31tax (8.25%)= $410/mo for 36 months. Drive off: $900 net ($1400-500 Infiniti rebate). Included 1st months payment. 12k/miles year So total lease cost: $15,250 Again, this was in metro LA and subject to the March conquest rebate which I think they aren't offering anymore. If you are in an area with more than a handful of Inf dealers, find the exact car (vin# or stock #) you want on their respective websites and ask each for their best internet sales price. Some will reply trying to get info out of you that will help them massage the offer to appeal to you (leasing? trade-in? monthly payment?), ignore them and ask them for the sales price again. Take the lowest three quotes and ask for their lease options on that car. You should be able to get a G35 Jy Prem for around $380 month before tax with around $1000 drive off.

Re: EX35 March Lease Numbers [socallimey]: by darkangel335i on Mon Mar 24 19:12:08 PDT 2008; socallimey, The tax rate on my lease is 8.25% because I live in LA County.

Re: My proposal...whaddya think? [dwynne]: by happycamry on Sat Feb 23 17:29:54 PST 2008; Thanks, but I can't take credit for the fax attack method. It's well known and has worked for me wonderfully on the last two cars purchased. Several colleagues and friends have also used it with great success. It helps you cut out the dealer BS and get straight to a real, out the door price. As I mentioned, you can start to learn about it through a google search. The spreadsheet at carbuyingtips.com is absolutely terrific, too. Even though it's well known, most buyers still get trapped negotiating at the dealership, and that's always at the psychological and tactical advantage of the dealer. True, if a buyer is not willing to travel beyond one or two nearby dealers, it's not likely that the potential savings will be as great. Speaking purely from my own level of tolerance, I was willing to drive five hours to save several hundred dollars. (about $500 less than what I would have received at a dealer two hours away) Phoenix is not a small market but, true, that doesn't mean it's an easy one. Some would be willing to drive to LA, and some not. I'm in Florida which is considered an expenisve, tough market but, with patience, it's winnable, too. Nobody is on this forum to compete with each other, or boast, only to help each other get a realistic sense of what is likely realistic, given the specifics of a car, and the current sales market, nationally and in various regional markets. I've gotten fantastic help here from terrific folks and am happy to share it, too. **** "Happycamry can talk all about his "fax attack" and other ideas about about getting great deals - and they may work in SoCal of someplace where dealers are around ever corner, but if there is little dealer choice (and they no it) ---SIC--- then they are not as inclined to feel the need for competing against each other. "

Re: My proposal...whaddya think? [waltaz]: by dwynne on Sat Feb 23 10:55:13 PST 2008; Inside of a 2 hour drive (one way) from me there is ONE Infiniti dealer. Around a 3 hour drive (one way) will net you just 6 dealerships - and NONE of these is any closer than 2 hours from each and most 3+ hours away for each other. Happycamry can talk all about his "fax attack" and other ideas about about getting great deals - and they may work in SoCal of someplace where dealers are around ever corner, but if there is little dealer choice (and they no it) then they are not as inclined to feel the need for competing against each other. Go to the dealer locator and put in an LA ZIP code and 100 miles - 17 dealerships come up. For a Phoenix ZIP code and 100 miles 5 come up, 9 for a Chicago area ZIP, San Diego shows 12, San Francisco show 10, NYC shows a whopping 24 dealers inside 100 miles. My area shows 1. If I had to choose where to car shop and where I would feel I could get the best deal and to (really) get dealers competing for my money which of those areas would I choose? Which would areas would appear to be the hardest to score a deal in? Don't drive yourself nuts over what someone else SAYS they paid for a car SOMEWHERE else at some other time. Unless you are willing to travel to their location and by a car under similar circumstances then there could be no way for you to get the deal they SAY they got. In some cases a little travel can get you a better deal and it IS something to look into. Keep in mind, some folks post a nice price and then you later find out they also paid a $500 or more "doc fee" on top of the price. Some folks just plain post the wrong prices - by accident or on purpose. You can try for your best price where you live and check out prices in cities within an easy travel from where you live, but if none of the dealers is willing to deal down as low as you think they should you can either expand your search or simply wait. If the dealers you worked with get more desperate for a sale they will likely contact you to see if you are still in the market - and perhaps offer you a better price. If you don't hear from them, then you could contact them at the end of the month and see if they will drop their best offer at that time. If you are trying to take advantage of special finance or lease options, those could go away and change at any time. It does not do you much good to finally get the dealer to drop the price $300 only to find that the 2.9% financing is gone and you are stuck at 5% or more. You have to also consider diminishing returns - if you spend lots of your time and lots of travel to save $200 or something then you are just wasting your time (at least *I* value my free time highly and don't spend it cheaply). If you are driving around in a beater waiting to save a few bucks then that too seems nuts - go ahead and get your new car and enjoy it even if you have to pay a bit more. $200 on a $40k deal is 0.5%, $500 is 1.25%. Yes it is still money and yes you don't want to spend any more than you have to, but in the long term if you get the car you want at a nice price and nice terms then you have a good deal. No matter what someone else SAYS they paid somewhere else and at some other time. Dennis

Re: Money Factor [jgrace5]: by dwynne on Wed Feb 13 08:14:42 PST 2008; I ran into this as well. My local dealer marks up the MF and charges $500 or so for the "doc" fee. They also add > $1k in crap-o-la to each car (clear bra, wheel locks, wind deflector, nitrogen fill, etc). So if you walk in with a VPP claim code they expect you to pay VPP + fee + all the dealer add on stuff + a marked up MF. You would be a lot better off to NOT use VPP and buy from a dealer than does not mark up, have a large fee, and/or add extras to the car. I even called the VPP folks and they said you have to pay the doc fee they normally charge, couldn't help on the on the MF mark up, and you would have to negotiate the price of the dealer add ons for yourself. What I would do is shop for the dealer. Contact them in a wide radius from where you live and ask if they mark up the IFS money factor on leases and do they have a doc or prep fee and what it is. Also ask about what they have added to the car, if anything. Once you have the best dealers pin-pointed, then see if they have a car you want and present your VPP claim code. It is VOLUNTARY for them to honor it on the car you want or not. But if you start with dealers with no add ons, no markup, and no dealer fee, you should end up with a much better net deal than working with your current dealer. Even if they refuse your VPP, if you leased at say $500-600 over invoice with no extras you would have a nicer deal. Keep in mind that the dealer that accepts your VPP gets what you pay PLUS a 2.5% of invoice (not counting destination fee) back from Infiniti as a delivery fee. So your VPP may be $300 over invoice, but the dealer is getting say $850 (loaded sedan) to $950 (loaded coupe) back. So the VPP deal would net them MORE profit that leasing at $1k over invoice or less. Harper, over in Knoxville, leased me my G37 at VPP with $0 doc fee and at the lease buy rate. Well worth the trip, for me, to save the money compared to other dealers. Dennis

Best possible price on g37s?: by bcheng122 on Fri Feb 01 00:38:25 PST 2008; I'm looking to purchase a g37S coupe almost immediately.. I'm not looking into any options, and am trying to get the best deal possible. Any idea how much I should be looking at? I don't really understand all the lingo many of you guys are talking about like plan a b c d. I am in the LA area in S. California. Any help on a price that I should shoot for with the dealers would be great.

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