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Find Infiniti Dealers in Los Angeles, California

The process of buying a new Infiniti car or truck can seem overwhelming if you don't know where to begin. Edmunds.com can get you started on the right track with a convenient directory of Infiniti car dealerships in and around Los Angeles, California. Compare online price quotes on the new or used car, truck, SUV, minivan, or wagon of your choice to locate the best deals. Edmunds.com makes it easy to find trusted Infiniti car dealers in Los Angeles, saving car buyers time and money on what will be an important purchase.

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Re: G37 Price Paid [socomdude]
by ed_g37 on Mon May 25 22:20:59 PDT 2009
Socomdude -- There is currently a $2000 dealer incentive (or 0.9% financing, but not both) going on, so you should be able to get at least $2000 off invoice, especially in Los Angeles area (in your area it might be different). If you're being offered close to invoice, then maybe they are quoting you with the 0.9% rate. It should be your choice - do the math and figure out which is better for you. Getting lower than invoice (or invoice - $2000 with the incentive) is really dependent on how much the dealer wants to get rid of inventory. They still make money if they sell the car a few hundred under invoice because of dealer holdback. It helps if you take a car off their lot - no dealer trades. Also, be sure to mention the $2000 / 0.9% incentive as soon as you start to talk about price so they know that you've done your research. Hope that helps.
Re: December Lease Numbers [drjustin]
by passat_mx on Sat Dec 27 09:02:27 PST 2008
drjustin, No, they are a different concept (see post 3722 in this thread). You should get familiarized with how to calculate a lease payment before heading to the dealer. Edmunds has a very good article here, but I'll give you the gist of it: There are four factors that come into play in a lease: two that are fixed, one that some dealers will try to play fast and loose with, and another that you have to outright haggle with: a) MSRP: This is fixed, printed on the window of the car. Just make sure it doesn't include any "dealer installed" crapola. Those accessories/protection plans are usually marked up through the roof. Decline them all. b) Residual percentage: Again, fixed for a determined mileage. The bank sets it and won't accept a contract that deviates from it. c) Money factor: Fixed, and you can learn about it here. However, in this case the bank sets a base (also called "market") money factor but lets dealers mark it up up to certain point, and they get a kickback on the difference. So you have to know what the base money factor is and insist that that's what is used in your calculation. Money factor for a lease is akin to interest rate on a traditional loan, so the lower it is, the better for you. Some banks will take multiple security deposits and give you a discount on the money factor in exchange. Since security deposits are completely refundable, this is usually a good option from the consumer's point of view. d) Capital cost: This is the amount for which the leasing bank is going to cut a check to the dealer. It equals the price you agree to pay for the vehicle after all the haggling, plus any other fees you decide to "roll up" into the loan. Let's talk about what these fees could be for a second: **bank fee, all banks charge an inception fee (again, there's a base or market fee that dealers are allowed to inflate to a certain point, so you need to check these forums to see what the current fee is), **title, tax and license (TTL), which are set by your state's DMV, **document fees, this is just crapola from the dealer, try not to pay any (California though sets it fixed at $50, so I don't haggle with that). All these fees can be rolled into the loan if you want (as opposed to being paid at inception). If the money factor is low, it could make sense to just do that. Lastly, the formula: Your lease payment is composed by depreciation + interest: ResidualAmount = MSRP * ResidualPercentage Depreciation = ( CapitalCost - ResidualAmount ) / NumberOfPayments Interest = ( CapitalCost + ResidualAmount ) * MoneyFactor MontlyPayment = Depreciation + Interest In California, sales tax is applied not at the time of the sale, but at the time when each lease payment is due, so just apply your local sales tax to the resulting MonthlyPayment above to figure out how much to write the check for. Other states might have a different way of handling sales tax.
Re: December Lease Numbers [drjustin]
by passat_mx on Thu Dec 25 04:01:09 PST 2008
"capital cost reduction=$2k (said the gap insurance protects me in event of a total loss)" It's not advisable to do any capital cost reductions on leases. The gap insurance will cover the difference between the commercial value and what you owe (so if you put 2k down and you happen to have a total loss on your car, you will never see that money again, but your gap insurance company might send you a thank you card ;-) ). Given the low money factor, ask the dealer to roll everything into the lease and just pay 1st payment+Security deposit at inception. If the cash is burning a hole in your pocket, or your only other investment alternative is a Madoff fund, you're better off making multiple security deposits, which would further reduce your money factor rate. Security deposits are completely refundable at the end of the lease. PS. Yes, you have to make the first payment at inception. Lease payments (like any other rent) are due in advance, as opposed to finance payments which are due at the end of each period.
Re: G35 w/ premium and sport [deepv]
by twowheeler on Wed Aug 27 15:04:50 PDT 2008
Deepv, was that with the special financing or the dealer cash? I was offered 32k for g35 + premium with special financing or 30k w/o. But that was about 2 weeks ago. I would think the deals are a little better now, especially with the conquest and 0.9% or 3k. I'm in SoCal.
Re: M35X / 2008 / Tech / Nav [gedalneil]
by aces47 on Sun May 04 22:55:33 PDT 2008
I just leased a 2008 M45 Sport...Tech/Advanced Tech/Spoiler 24 month lease, $750 per month (includes taxes), 12K miles per month Drive off was $1275 (no cap reduction) Took advantage of current Infiniti $2000 credit to repeat buyers. Location: Los Angeles,CA
Re: My Deal Tonight [jtla]
by benji123 on Thu Jan 04 19:10:54 PST 2007
Miller Infiniti in Van Nuys MSRP: $35,090 (Journey + Premium + Splash Guards) Cap Cost: $32,942 (The following were not disclosed to me but I figured out later) Residual Value: 59% (based on $20,703.10 residual/MSRP) MF: 0.00224 (based on monthly payment and above numbers) I'm really enjoying it so far. This Bluetooth handsfree is a trip.

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