Find BMW Dealers in Grants Pass, Oregon

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Medford BMW

600 N Central
Medford, OR 97501
(541) 774-8450

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Wolf Creek BMW Car Dealers

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Grants Pass, OR BMW Car Consumer Discussions

Re: Lease Assumption [qbrozen]: by inhalexhale on Wed May 28 11:58:41 PDT 2008; Yea BMW has two options for mileage. You can prepay more milage @ 16cents per mile. If you just let it go over and turn it in your charged 20 cents per mile. I'll check the paper this Sunday. On their website BMW has the 328xi sedan lease offer listed for $3500 down and $459 a month. (36 month/10k miles per year) this doesn't include taxes/fees. (328xi, premium package, auto trans) I was quoted on a new sedan without the premium package and minimal options (power front seats/ heated seats)and it was $2075 down and $469 per month. (10k miles per year) Granted, I can get them to go lower but do you really think they would wave the $2075 down payment, add a $3200msrp package, and drop the payment $4+ a month?

328i Convertible: by stvroy on Wed Mar 19 14:50:37 PDT 2008; Here's a response I received from a dealer I'm working with. Granted, the internet salesperson I was working with quickly handed this one off to a manager once I started asking pointed questions and dissecting the numbers (thanks to you guys). I've been talking about a 36 mo/10k mile lease... "stvroy", Based on a $46,000 328cv Money factor with 7 extra deposits- .00236 The .00245 rate you have is the invoice price from BMW and not available to the public. 7 multiple deposits- $5800 With 6932.84 due (deposits and 1st payment and fees) payment is $682.80. Of course at the end of the lease you would receive $5600 back. Please let me know if you have any other questions. Looking forward to wrapping this up for you. ************************************* My response..... "Mr. Dealer"- Thanks for the information. I understand the .00245 is from BMW, but multiple sources I've found on my research say this rate is available. As your saying it's not, the 1.32% bump on the rate seems a bit high. So is the best deal on the spread? If it helps, I have a 792 FICO Score. I do lke the MSD option, but why is the secuity deposit $800 each? I thought it was in $50 increments based on the payment. If I put cash down to lower the payment, wouldn't the security deposit go down as well? I do like this model as I'm buying down the rate. I saw you based your numbers of a $46,000 328. As your coming into the deal now, here's what I'm interested in specifically as this number effects the residual and purchase price, and ultimately the payment. 328i CONV Alpine White/Creme Interior *6-speed STEPTRONIC Auto *Cold Weather Package *Comfort Access MSRP - $46,500 Invoice - $42,870 What would I expect in terms of price when ordering the vehicle? I know the going rate on the coupe and sedan is $500 or so over invoice from a lot of people on the BMW forums. I know the numbers you provided were just on a generic $46K 328 selling at MSRP, but I would be interested in learning the specifics of the vehicle if I were to order. ****************************************** So, what should I feel comfortable is a fair price. I'm thinking $44k on the purchase price and the bye rate of .00245. Is this realistic?

Not impressed with BMW dealership in Madison, WI: by drolly on Fri Feb 02 13:37:48 PST 2007; Made an offer on the aforementioned BMW. I wanted to pay around $21500 for it. I test drove it last Monday night along with an Acura TSX at another dealership and liked the BMW a little more. Before the test drive, the sales rep mentioned that since the car had been sitting on the lot so long (November), they would be going to auction after the end of the month. So, following omerfar's suggestion (and knowing they would be selling at auction shortly if I didn't buy) I offered $20500 for the car, $21000 for the car with the add-on warranty that BMW offers (the $1395 one that extends the service and maintanence from 50k to 100k miles). Got a phone call and email back explaining how my offer was under wholesale (BS), they'd be losing money on the car for that, that she could "maybe squeeze a couple hundred dollars" out of her manager, and then they displayed the TMV page where it shows the car is worth $26000 retail. I explained to them I don't put much stock into that because according to that, that means the car is only worth a few thousand less than when it was originally on the lot 3 years and 30k miles ago. Series of emails and phone calls followed. This was Tuesday, Jan 30th. Got an email and phone call from the dealer the next day (Wed. Jan 31). Called back and they basically asked if we could find a price whether or not I'd come in today to sign. Absolutely I said. She figured out the difference between what the car was asking ($23998) and what I was offering ($21000). She said she'd talk again with her manager and knowing that I'd come in today to sign, she'd see what she could do. Dealership calls back about 15 mins later. Best they can do is $300 off because anything more and they'd be losing money on the car, but they can also knock $400 off the warranty, so it's like they're knocking $700 off. More discussion followed, but what it came down to is that they were still only coming down $300 on the car. Granted, when I initially test drove the car the sticker price was $1000 more, but they wouldn't come anywhere near my offer. I found out that a guy I work with has a friend who works in this dealerships finance department and he asked her about the dealership. Apparently this dealership would rather lose money on a car at auction and save face instead of coming down on price and creating a reputation of a dealership where deals can be had. Really frustrates me as a consumer. I'm in the process of moving to a different job where I'd make significantly more money than I do right now and might even be looking for a new BMW in the near future instead of this used one. There's no way I'll be going back to a dealership that would rather lose money at auction than make a customer.

Re: Drive-off questions [Car_man]: by mark1234 on Fri Jul 14 13:46:58 PDT 2006; Thanks Car man, When I was at the dealer, I was the given the impression that "some" type of down payment, i.e cap cost reduction was "required". Granted it was just the preliminary discussions, and I am in a small city in central VA where there is no other dealer for 75 miles, but that seemed a bit presumptuous. I'm certainly going to shop around, but it's nice to get a better idea of what the "going rate" is. Mark1234

Re: BMW Hassles;lack of dealer integrity;BMW condones it [asteinberg]: by bdr127 on Thu Feb 23 07:28:38 PST 2006; It seems as though most of your complaints are because of the dealer and not specifically BMW. The fact that you referred to the staff as "elitist and snotty", it sounds like you are mixing with a bad bunch. I might try to find a different dealer to work with.... As someone said above, trying to make money in our capitalist, free market society is not a crime. Most of us don't go online and bad-mouth our local Wal-Mart or Best Buy when they mark up merchandise 200% or more!.... Granted, the dealer shouldn't lie in doing it, but it is not "slimy" or "fraudulent" to simply make money. As someone also said above, no bank or financial institution publishes its financing buy rates. It would be pretty dumb for a business to tell the public and make no money as a result. That is all banks... not just BMWFS. Your local bank might disclose "6.9% financing" on their website , but they are definitely making money on that (their "buy rate" might be more like 5.5% or 5.9%). Try going into your local bank and asking for their base buy rate... they'll probably just laugh you out the door. As for ordering a car and its delivery time, it is impossible to nail down an exact date like you are requesting. There are so many factors and variables involved. First, every model has a different production schedule and build time. Second, every dealer has different allocation, so one dealer might be able to get a car into production the next day, but another might not be able to get one in for two weeks. Third, once the car arrives at the port in Germany, it needs to wait for a ship to transport it across the Atlantic. Sometimes it has to wait one day and sometimes it has to wait two weeks. It all depends on the ship schedules and availability. Fourth, shipping time is slightly variable. Sometimes it'll take 2.5 weeks to transport, sometimes 3.5 weeks. It depends on weather, ship speed, and how many stops the ship has in between Germany and the US port. Fifth, transport time from the US port to your dealership is soooo variable. If you live in South Carolina (one of the US ports is Charleston, SC), then the car will probably get to your dealer within 2 days. If you live in Texas or Missouri or something, it'll probably take a couple weeks...... As you can see, BMW trying to tell you the exact date a car will arrive is impossible. That's why they give you an approximate range. That's not a "scheme"... It's the truth.

Re: October MF? and LA dealers recommendations? [kyfdx]: by bimmerdude on Mon Oct 31 00:58:29 PST 2005; Hi kydfx, I just want to thank you and all the guys here for helping others, I have learned so much here from all of you, especially kydfx and Car_man. Thanks again! I have 3 questions still: :confuse: First, I am asked to pay security deposit for the new 2006 530i MF=0.0016 (base MF =0.0014), is that right? Should I insist not paying unless it grants the base MF? Since the security deposit is refundable, why the dealer still asking for it? I would love to pay the security deposit if I can get the base MF, which is 0.0014. I believe that the dealer rather give me MF 0.0016 so that they can make more money. It seems there is no reason to take the deposit and giving base MF? I am a bit confused. 2nd question, since I have to order the car, what is the typical milage on the brand new car? how can I make sure the new car I got is no more than 10 miles on the car? Since I don't want to wait 8 weeks and get 50 miles on my brand new $50K+ car alreay? 3rd question, I need to make a $1000 deposit to get the order going. Can I still back off from the deal later and get the $1000 back, if something happened? I am not planning to do that, it is more wanting to know how to protect myself. Sorry to hit you with so many questions. Thanks very much!

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