Find Acura Dealers in Banks, Alabama

Paying cash for a car is the same as getting a loan from another source (bank etc.)and giving the dealer a check...as far as the dealer is concerned. A check from you or a check from the bank is the same as cash to the dealer. Now if you get a loan from the dealer/manufacturer that is different. (They may make money off this type of loan/transaction). So bottom line...there is no plus or minus, when dealing with a dealership, between paying cash or presenting a check (from a loan with a bank).

First off, you should definitely visit the Lease forum where the host Car_man will get you the right leasing numbers for a truly informed decision. To avoid repeating everything the lease forum will teach you, lez just say that, in addition to the residual value, you'll need 2 other pieces of info (capitalized cost (the price you would have paid if you bought the car, as well as the money factor (the interest you'll be paying the bank to lease the car). Since you didn't provide either, I will assume this: 1. $31,100 capitalized value. (the price I bought my car - about $850 over invoice which is not that spectacular these days.) 2. moneyfactor of .00215 (should have be honda finance's rate in Nov.) (which translates to about a 5.16% interest rate - nothing smashing at all either). Given these assumptions (and not taking into account your downpayment which should lower the monthly payments further), you should be paying no more than about $425/month on a non Nav TL. of course, if there's sales tax in your state, multiply this amount 1.xx to get the more accurate figure (e.g. 8% tax on $425 is about $34). A $500 monthly payment (excluding tax), means that the dealer is basically charging you MSRP for the vehicle (which imho, is one big screwjob when the non navs can be had for a few hundred bucks above invoice - unless you live in the cornfields or hawaii, that is). The bottomline is, you should negotiate the price, then subsequently start talking about hte lease terms. d p.s. that $2000 'downpayment' may include Tax/title/licence, $550 acquisition fee (standard honda lease fee), security deposit equal to 1st month (i.e. $500) + a few miscellaneous stuff, leaving you less than a grand that actually reduces your capitalized cost

Highly unlikely you'll be able to keep those payments below $550 on a 5year unless you go the leasing route - which judging by your desire to ditch a relatively new car, might be the way to go. Assuming you get the 6speed for $550/month (also unlikely) and you're worried about that $35 more/month in car payments, you can't afford the car, much less the thousands of dollars you'll have to fork out to pay off the bank on your maxima (i'd assume you bought it new with that 2.99% finance rate).