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I am a previous female owner of (2) 32 series BMW's the last purchase was a 2005 330I well my son is in college & his car broke down that is my old 1997 328I so I will be giving him mine. My freind recently bought a 2005 528i for 24,000 drive out with only 34,000 miles. Are there any deals out there like this there were no carfax issues either. ... Read More
has nav and prem pkg. modular seats. XM radio. bmw of sudbury, MA. traded in 1997 camry for 1.6k for a net of 44k. good deal? dealer also sold wheels/tire plan for 1300$/5 yrs and 10yr/110k mile ex warranty for 4700$. is that a good price? thanks
I wonder what a "cracked" driveshaft is then? Sounds very unusual. My wife's CPO 1997 528i had a low speed rumble/vibration that was independent of engine speed and wheels/tires fitted. My dealer has a first class service department and they diagnosed a bent driveshaft. It was replaced under the CPO warranty, no questions asked. I still wonder how one could tweak a driveshaft without hitting/running over something. FYI, BMW continues to ... Read More
I just purchased a BMW 528i. A couple of issues have arisen with this car. First, I believe there is a problem with the thermostat. It takes forever to heat up when I drive it short distances, but on the highway it heats up fast. Secondly, it run rough for a few minutes when iI first start it, after it has ran a few minutes, it runs perfect. Also, I noticed ... Read More
Thanks for all the advice.
I had the washer pump fail on my 1997 5er. It's an easy -if a bit fiddly- DIY. It took me @45 minutes to R&R the pump.
If you have no idea when the oil was changed I recommend you change it ASAP but first you should check with the dealer to see if they have that information. Also you should acquire an owner's manual from a dealer, if it did not come with the car. This will tell you what type of oil to use and how to interpret the service indicator lights (those green dashes that ... Read More
Also is it wise to have the oil changed? I bought the car from a private seller and I have no idea when and if the oil was changed...If the answer is yes can you tell me what kind of oil, it does say 5w30, but would that be a sythentic oil? I appreciate any help, Thanks again
I havent seen any blue smoke, so maybe it's just the EFI. I think I can just live with it. I do have a questin about the washer pump fuse. Is it just one fuse or is it two? Can you tell me if I can use regular ATC fuses or do I have to have special fuses for it? Can you tell me what amperage I need for the fuse? ... Read More
If you wanted to check for worn valve stem seals or valve guides? A cylinder leakdown test tells you a great deal about the internal condition of an engine. Generally on a car as old as yours, you live with it. It can be an expensive repair (the valve guides themselve I mean). Replacing just the valve stem seals is a lot cheaper to do, but on an older engine, perhaps ... Read More
What exactly will my mechanic do to check this issue? And if this is the problem, is this a pretty expensive repair?
I dont think the odor is sulfurous. I'm going to have it checked out, just to play it safe. Winter is right around the corner and I want my car running smoothly when the snow finally starts here. I'm just curious, why would it be rough just on start up, but not when I'm driving it?
Well if you have worn valve guides or hardened valve stem seals, what happens is that overnight some oil left on top of the engine, in the cylinder head, drips down past the valves and the seals (which it normally should not do) and then collects in little drops on top of the piston. So you start up first thing in the morning, and your spark plug momentarily fouls due to ... Read More
No, I dont think it's burning any oil...I'm taking it in for an oil change and to have the thermostat replaced on Friday...and I'm going to check the fuses for the washer pump first and my mechanic said he'll check the pump. How do I tell if it is burning oil?
No doubt you have a bad thermostat; I have a 2000 528i and it warms up very quickly even in winter driving. That's a cheap fix and so is a replacement wiper motor but check the fuse first. Don't know why yours runs rough on startup, perhaps the EFI isn't making the mixture rich enough, could be a bad sensor or bad coil. If the odor you're getting is sulfurous, you ... Read More
You may be right about the thermostat. BMWs of this era have notoriously tempermental cooling systems. As for the strong exhaust odor, it sounds like your plugs are fouling on start up---either due to a dripping injector, or leaking valve stem seals. Do you burn some oil, or you don't know yet? Probably the pump is shot, another typical problem. You can test the pump with some wires off your battery ... Read More
yesterday i purchased a 1997 bmw 528i. the car is loaded other than the phone in the center console (im glad, it would be embarassing to have that giant thing in the car), the guy that owned it before me only put 65,000 miles on it. i just traded in my ford exploder and with the loan and interest i only owe 7,100 dollars. i think i got a great deal ... Read More
The running costs for my 1997 528i averaged @$85/month. As for the cooling system, you need to replace the water pump, thermostat, and radiator. MY BMW indie shop did the work for considerably less than $1000. How does that compare to a Lexus? Beats me; I could never own a Lexus as I find them to be much too dangerous- If I had to drive one I'd die of boredom...
has anyone had a problem with their bmw not wanting to go in reverse? my car does go in when you first start the car but after will not engage in reverse. i have been told it could be a control module...does anyone know what could it be?
I think the reason there is a dipstick on the 550i as opposed to the 535i & 528i is the fact that the 550i is an "older" engine. I think (someone please correct me if I'm wrong) that the current V8's architecture dates back to the e39 540i that debuted in MY 1997. It is all part of plan for BMW to get you to service your car at the dealership. ... Read More
Any advice or experience is most welcome. The following suggestions are based on my experience running a 1997 528iA from 2001 to 2005: 1. Forget any non-BMW NA warranty. They are glorified insurance policies. The House almost always wins. 2. Set aside $80-$90 a month for service/repairs 3. Find a good independent BMW tech, which will cut service costs @30%-40%. 4. Join the BMW Car Club. Receive up to a 20% ... Read More
I don't understand the statement that only the M cars maintain a focus on the enjoyment of driving rather than gee-whiz gadgets. That was probably true until the current E60 M5 and E63 M6, but no longer. My M6 is loaded with performance controlling/interfering gadgets. Just look at the programmable M-Drive button and the six different systems that it toggles. This is my third M vehicle (1997 M3, 2000 M5, 2006 ... Read More
Mileage is definitely more important. I bought a 1997 528 last year that had 162,000 miles on it and since lst year, I have had to have the heads rebuilt (4000.00) replace the catalytic converter (1900.00) plus and about 2500.00 of other misc things. Before I bought the car, I had a pre-purchase inpection done at an import place and it checked out fine but, the next time I would take ... Read More
If memory serves, the problem isn't that the oil is too heavy, it's that the oil is leaking past the "O" rings, thus reducing the pressure brought to bear against the VANOS spring. That said, you may have something there in that the oil would be far more likely to leak past the "O" rings when warmer/thinner than when cool in a newly cold-started engine. The absolute heaviest "cold" oil allowable ... Read More
I was thinking that if the oil is too heavy on cold start up, it won't work the hydraulics for the cam shift.
That makes sense. That said, all accounts of VANOS acting up that I've been privy to were a result of worn oil control "O" rings in the VANOS assembly itself. Could it be that incorrect oil usage is responsible for the worn rings? Ain't no way I'd rule that possibility out. Based upon my very unscientific observations, there seems to be a very hit and miss nature to this problem. Take ... Read More
I think some people can also run into problems with VANOS if they are using the wrong weight of oil, can't they?
Most likely the problem is with your VANOS cam timing system. Said system uses oil pressure to adjust the timing if each cam shaft by pressing against a spring loaded collar gear. As the seals wear out they are not able to maintain the neccessary oil pressure required to conteract the force of the springs, and as such the cams are mis-timed upon start-up. As the problem gradually worsens over a ... Read More
Sean, Couple of things -- first, george. . . posted a month short of two years ago and hasn't been heard from since. He posted once -- if you put your arrow on the screen name, it'll tell you how many posts the person has, when they last posted, etc. You're very unlikely to hear from him, but there are others who prowl these boards regularly who may be able to ... Read More
George, If you don't mind email me and let me know what you found out about the problem above. I have the same car same year doing the same thing, rough idle and after giving it gas it runs fine. Thanks Sean Sullivan email@example.com
I have a 1997 540i 6spd. I have changed the remote batteries once before. Today, I tried replacing the battery in my key fob again. These were the steps: 1) Car is locked. 2) Remove the 2 batteries (CR1220) from the fob. 3) Drove another car to Walgreen - can't find CR1220 batteries 4) Drove back home. Reinsert old batteries BUT didn't properly do the +- matching - I didn't realized ... Read More
I have a 97 528 and have had the same problem. It could be many things; however, I have heard of any number of people who have had to have new head gaskets or even new cylinder heads - now THAT is a very expensive job (looking at $5K depending upon what else they do).
The only more or less official data is 265HP. A 10HP boost. The torque does not rise. There have been several less official statements (perhaps just rumors) that there will be a more powerful V6. The 3.2, with the typical conservative Audi bi-turbo treatment would easily match the engine that is in the 335 and 535. If Audi does not rise to the challenge, I would argue they will HAVE to ... Read More
The transmission--you broke this one, too!
I am a BMW enthusiast without much technical knowledge. I presently drive a 1997 BMW 540i with an automatic transmission (prefer automatic for work). I plan to purchase a new 5 series when then 2008 models come out. Thus, I have three questions: 1. What is the difference (performance, 0-60 acceleration, torque, gas mileage) between the present 550i engine and the new engine due in 2009 as an F10 2010 model? ... Read More
Hi, I changed the transmission on my 97 528i and didn't put enough tranny fluid I drove it for a little bit and now it seems to be stuck in first gear or it would act like its in neutral. The reverse seems to work fine. Can anyone please tell me what mechanism I would need to replace to fix this problem. Thanks
WOW. I had the following (not a complete list): 1995 S6 1997 A8 1999 A6 2.8 2000 A6 4.2 comfort 2001 A6 4.2 sport 2003 allroad 2.7T 2005 A6 3.2 with 18" wheels and 245 x 40 x 18" tires At the same time, my wife had multiple A4's, three TT's and one BMW X3 3.0. The A6 is the quietest of the bunch (including the A8), it also is both ... Read More
Hi, I'm also perusing this site to find out about the reality/myths of how well BMWs hold up - particularly post-2000 3 & 5-series'. Your comment, "Finally, I ran a 1997 528iA to over 130K miles and my service and repair costs averaged $90 per month" doesn't sound too encouraging to me. $90/month = $1,080/year. Please comment
Gradual, low speed overheating is an AIR circulation problem, not a water circulation problem. Your mechanic can easily test for exhaust gases in the coolant. He doesn't have to guess about a bad head gasket. http://www.rxauto.com/blocktest.htm
My 1997 528i overheats while idling or city driving. Check the fan clutch as well as the auxiliary fan.
My 1997 528i overheats while idling or city driving. Recently replaced thermostat and for four weeks didnt see any overheating whild idling. It came back again and mechanic is suspecting there could be the problem in the engine gasket head and gasket head needs a replacement. He thinks faulty gasket head might be causing air bubble into the cooling system causing overheating while idling. Gasket replacing is very expensive and am ... Read More
Can someone calm me down or am I right to be nervous? As I've repeated umpteen times on these boards: Relax! Most of the "horribly expensive" BMW maintenance/repair stories are spread by people who heard that his best friend's sister's college roommate knew a guy who had a dentist whose broker told him that it cost his second cousin $3000 to change the oil on his 318i. Yes there ARE some ... Read More
And from what I can tell, we need to add Acura, BMW, Cadillac and Lexus to the list. Having said that, my in-laws have a "flawless" 1997 Cadillac (the big one with front wheel drive.) It has perhaps 70,000 miles on it and yes it has had new tires and brake pads and maybe even rotors, but basically the car -- such as it is (i.e. a front wheel drive sofa ... Read More
I would like to know, basically if the BMW's hold up into their 90-100,000 mile range If you'll search for several of my recent posts in this topic you'll learn of my experience running a 1997 528iA out to 130K. In the 100K to 120K mileage range you'll probably be looking at front struts($600-$900) as well as a water pump$250-$500). If the car is an automatic the ATF needs to be ... Read More
I have been car shopping for the last month. I was looking at 1997-98 BMW 328i's and I finaly looked at a 99-00 BMW 528i. The 528i I am interested in is completely clean on the inside, no damage. The exterior has 1 minor dent and small scratches on the front bumper and back bumper. I test drove the car twice for about 30 min over 2 days. City driving and ... Read More
Selling England by the Pound -- Genesis. You win the cupie doll, Pat! Here in Cincinnati, the new generation of BMW's with that spanky new "35" twin turbo engine are rolling out -- at this point, the 335 sedan and coupes are RWD, but already the 328 is offered with AWD and next year the X drive option will be added for about $1900. It promises to be a brisk seller. ... Read More
Put the $1500 in a money market account, find a good independent BMW tech, and keep on driving. I seriously doubt that you will spend anywhere close to $1500 on non-scheduled repairs. As I stated in response to another post: Relax! Most of the "horribly expensive BMW repair" stories are spread by people-many are envious fools, while others are just plain fools- who heard that his best friend's sister's college roommate ... Read More
Recently, all the fluids were replaced I'm assuming that includes brake fluid, coolant, transmission fluid, and final drive oil- using BMW approved fluids/lubricants? Blue Book trade-in value is $13,000, private party trade value is $15K, and dealership retail is $17,000. I wouldn't pay over $15K; why pay silly money for very low miles on a car you are going to drive? It's not like an E39 528i is collectable. I've never ... Read More
I have one of the first E39s (528)delivered in the U.S. (June 96 as a 1997 model). The car has premium pkg and manual transmission and has just crossed 150K miles. I get about 24mpg in town and nearly 30 in highway cruising and the car has never burned a drop of oil. Other than "normal" replacement items (belts, hoses, brake pads, coolant, oil, filters, tune-up items, etc), the only trouble ... Read More
Hmmm....I am also leaning towards taking chances but what are the components that are usually replaced between 50k and 60k miles? I am curious so that I can think about return on investment. At most you may be looking at a water pump- at which time you might as well fit a new thermostat and housing. The job is a fairly simple DIY procedure,but a good independent BMW tech using OEM ... Read More
Anyways, I now have 75K on my 02 and am contemplating getting rid of it before: 1. It gets to 100K miles and the value really drops 2. I have to deal with a new transmission at about 100K miles. Never had a problem with the car yet, and I am a novice here with this question - but how long do these transmissions last considering they are well taken care ... Read More
The 525i and 530i models didn't debut until 2001, in 2000 the only 6-Cylinder model was the 528i (and 1997-1999). Having driven each of the six cylinder models (all with a 5-Speed manual), I would personally rank them in order of engine size, the larger the engine, the more desirable. Said another way, each of the three models has the following characteristics: 530i -- Most powerful engine with decent low end ... Read More
I have your problem x3. 1997 528 premium sound system. Whenever the temperature gets high and car is in the sun, the LED shitches to "Phone" and I lose all audio (radio, cd and cassette). [Phone is not activated.] Pushing "audio" button does nothing. Audio will come on when it's cooler. This can last for several hours, and the problem is several months old. Any others with this experience?
You are getting hosed- plain and simple. Want to know how bad? Read on... I had put off changing a noisy idler pulley on my wife's 128K 1997 528i, and late last fall my procrastination was rewarded by the pulley bearing disintegrating and taking out both belts and the fan shroud. I decided to let my independent BMW tech handle the repairs. While he had the car we decided to replace ... Read More
I agree, that amount of oil usage is somewhat high. I'd certainly bring that to your dealer's attention. At 130K my 1997 528i used less than one quart every 8000 miles. I'd want some answers if the oil consumption hasn't settled down by 10000 miles or so.
. . .rich folks vs really rich folks. One group of rich folks has good income, some wealth and decent cash flow, they are usually under 40. They drive the Audi, BMW and Mercedes high five and low six figure cars, if they are the more gregarious types (not that there is anything wrong with that.) The really rich folks seem to drive nice, but oddly inexpensive or older versions of ... Read More
You won't have to buy only the BMW to get the Bangled look . . . the way it's revealing itself even on the new MB's and Lexus. Going to have to disagree here. I don't know about Lexus, but Mercedes isn't following Bangle in the least. The rear of the S-Class is from the Maybach and the Maybach concept was shown way back in 1997 - long before anyone named ... Read More
Yikes, talk about maintenance problems. :( RAVENNA, Ohio -- A man facing a big bill because he had blown the engine in his 1997 BMW decided to bury his car instead and collect $20,000 from his insurance company by claiming it was stolen. Avoiding Repair Costs
People told me afterwards that BMWs are notorious for auto transmissions failing around 100K miles My 1997 528i had 130K on it when I sold it and the transmission shifted as new. Did you change the ATF before 100K miles? On another E39 board there are several cars with over 170K and still on their original autobox.
There are no good sources for BMW owner's documentation. BMW started putting the manuals online beginning with MY 2000. This is from the BMW Owner's Circle website: "On-line Owners Manuals are currently available for vehicles of model year 2000 and greater only. If you would like to order an Owners' Manual for your vehicle, please contact your preferred BMW center:" Other than BMW, eBay is a good place to look. Good ... Read More
Hello, Please does anyone know where i can find a user guide or manual for BMW 528IA 1997? Also for the radio guide. Also, does anyone know how to change the language from German to English? Thanks in adavnce,
While I've always liked BMWs they have slipped behind Audi in design, imo. My favorites of the past are the original 6-Series Coupe, 1989-1995 5-Series and the 1991-1997 8-Series, which I'm most likely in the minority on. The current models: 2006 3-Series - Not nearly as bad as the 2002 7-Series and about tied with the current 5-Series. Since I know a coupe and a convertible are coming I'll wait to ... Read More
I changed the fluid on my 1997 at 99K miles, and I understand that Munich now calls for a change at 100K miles. My car has the four speed GM unit that was fitted up to 8/99 so I only have to pay for Dexron III; the dealer charged me just$110 to change the ATF and the final drive oil. Having said all that, many of the techs I trust recommend ... Read More
I've observed that the radiators on the V8s tend to fail near the point where the upper radiator hose is attached; sometimes the hose breaks off completely. If the needle even approaches the red zone you should switch it off. As for me, I've owned seven BMWs since 1983, beginning with a 1973 Bavaria 3.0. My current stable consists of a 318ti Club Sport and a 1997 528iA.
I had a mechanical alternator belt that did the same them that was replaced.
Maintenance is everything on this car. Plan on spending real money to keep in perfect running condition. The PLUS side is my car at 103000 ('97 528i) drives perfect and looks like almost new inside and out. The material quality and build quality make these cars defy age. BUT a vehicle service history and inspection by a real BMW facility is very important. I think with 80k and it being 8 ... Read More
I doubt that you need an xi. I also live in Kentucky; I have a 1997 528i that serves as my wife's commuter sled. I have a set of Michelin Artic Alpine winter tires mounted on steel wheels with BMW OEM wheel covers. In early December I install the winter tires(a very easy 45 minute job) and in mid to late March I re-fit the summer tires and wheels. Your car ... Read More
My 1997 BMW528i has a cold start problem. When vehicle starts it runs rough as though running on four cylinders rather than six. Once I press the accelerator and bring the rpm's up to 1000 every thing smooths out and vehicle behaves normally. Vehicle then behaves normally for the rest of the day unless I let it set for a long period. Then the rough idle problem occurs again. There are ... Read More
1. I have a 1997 528iA with over 122000 miles. I'm still running the original o2 sensors. When they finally start tripping codes I'll replace them. I'll use BMW sensors; with a CCA discount the cost should be close to the Bosch sensors. 2. The OEM plugs(assuming the plugs in your car are OEM) should not be causing detonation. I run 93 octane and have never had any problems. There must ... Read More
I have a 1997 528iA with 122000 miles on it. It still looks, runs, and drives like new. In the past 40000 miles all it has needed is scheduled maintenance and brake pads. 1997 was the first year for the E39 platform and thus they did have a few more gremlins than the later cars. That said, a car with 80000 miles has probably had those problems sorted out by now. ... Read More
My information comes from Consumer Reports, where they show high incindence of problems with cooling, electrical, and power equipment systems for earlier E39 models, with problems decreasing dramatically in '00, '01, '02, and '03. The ratings show '02 and '03 models to be almost Camry-like in reliablity (my '02 has been virtually trouble-free). So I'd look to see if any problems in these areas have come up and been addressed--also suggests ... Read More
For several weeks I have been researching the reliability of a 1997 or 1998 BMW with 80,000 miles and haven't found too many recent reviews. With strong research on the specific vehicle's maintenance record, can anyone give me any specific feedback or advice on whether purchasing such a vehicle is a good or bad move and what to look out for?
The "E" numbers are BMWs internal codes to refer to a specific vehicle platform, so I guess I said it wrong before. Sorry about that. Anyway, the current E60 5-Series is a completely different platform from the ground up than was the previous generation E39 5-Series. The E60 5-Series has been/will be offered with a total of seven engines so far, and the E39 5-Series was offered with a total of ... Read More
In any current car from any of the LPS companies (BMW ONLY excluded) the only choice is an auto. I fully expect some "tip" lag from the Audi. I also expected it from the Infiniti. This is different from saying I "like it" or I "want it" -- I do know how to somewhat to mostly mitigate it. I didn't want a BMW 5 series x or non-x. The US transmissions ... Read More
The first thing you need to do is join the BMW Car Club of America. Club members get discounts of up to 25% on parts and/or service at hundreds of dealers and shops. Next, go to www.iaibmwsp.org -the web site of The International Association of Independent BMW Service Professionals. They have several member shops in your area. Finally check out my E39 home page in my profile. As for your current ... Read More
It seems that your 5 isn't a particularly good one, and you should get rid of it, if another dealer's service department can't fix it. Obviously, you'll want to move to another make. I wouldn't know what to recommend to you. I'm on my 3rd 3 series and I'll agree that my BMW's haven't been as perfect as the series of Acura's that I drove before them. Still, I do believe ... Read More
"Why do you think MB or BMW would be bad if she wanted NAV?" Because this woman is a technophobe, and you have to use COMAND or iDrive in order to actually use the Nav systems in BMW or MB cars. You cant tell me that these complex, multi-button systems are easier to use than a Lexus or Acura touch screen. "In truth, the current ES is reputedly even more of ... Read More
High miles? You must be kidding! My wife's 1997 528iA has 120K and is still going strong. At 62k you might be looking at a water pump before too long. If it goes replace the thermostat and thermostat housing while you are at it. Parts and labor shouldn't amount to much over $200, though it's a fairly simple DIY job. I would still have the car inspected by a good BMW ... Read More
You know what, you're right I'm thinking about the previousx2 5-Series the 1989-1995 model not the 1997-2003 model, yep the two you mention did have the same style of interior, but that 7-Series was first to market so thats why it sticks out to me. I remember the previous 5-Series coming to market in spring of 1996 as a 1997 model. I'm thinking about the 535i from the late eighties. Your ... Read More
My dealership sells about 50 cars per month -- they are an exclusive Audi only dealership. There are two in Cincinnati, both stand alones. I do not know how the other dealership is doing. The Dayton Ohio dealership (1) sells 10 Audis a month. The dealer that I have been buying from through my current 2 Audis (both 2003's) claims to have 30 A6's on hand and more in port and ... Read More
I have owned a 1997 2.8 Z3 and a 2002 E46 M3 Coupe. Both had styling that had a hard to define sexiness quality. I was recently in the market for a larger car, and really wanted to take a serious look at the BMW 545. I just couldn't do it. The front looks like a pontiac with squinty asian eyes, and the rear, oh my, the rear. I don't buy ... Read More
The dealer is trying to hose you big time-tell him I said so...;) Is the car cranking slow? You need to top up the battery cells with distilled water every six months or so. Do that and your battery will last quite a while; my 1995 318t1 and 1997 528i still have their original batteries. The BMW OEM batteries don't seem to be as robust as the ones that come with ... Read More
Hey everyone. I am in the market for a new car. My choices are Nissan Armada, Inifiniti QX56, and BMW 545i. All cars loaded. I am leaning towards the Armada and QX. I got one dealer to get the price of the 2005 QX down to $50997 (LOADED). I test drove the 545i yesterday, and it was beautiful. I did not want to get out of the car. Problem is, the ... Read More
I can't say that I've found BMWs to be expensive to run; the repair and maintenance costs on my wife's 1997 528iA work sled have averaged about $84/month over the last two years/30K miles-and that number includes an Inspection II as well as changes of the AT, final drive, brake system, and cooling system fluids, a set of BMW OEM brake pads, and four V-rated summer tires. And by the way, ... Read More
BMW's, like alot of cars, can be very expensive to repair if they have major damage. So, at the 5 year point, a major accident could very easily total the car from the insurance companys standpoint. I was just talking to an independent BMW mechanic, this morning actually, that buys cars under salvage, rebuilds/repairs them and then drives them for many years. It sounds like you are not worried ... Read More
If I had to drive my wife's 1997 528iA all the time, here's what I would do: 1.Larger front and rear anti-roll bars @$400 2.Bilstein HD Shocks @$500 3.540i front calipers and rotors @$350? 4.16 or 17 inch wheels and summer high performance tires @$1200-$3000 5.Conforti Shark Injector and Cold Air Intake $710 The brake upgrade really isn't necessary, but it more than doubles the front brake pad life and you ... Read More
Here's an excerpt from a post I made in the 5er forum a few weeks ago: >My wife uses a 109000 mile 1997 528iA as her commuter sled. Aside from a failed windshield washer motor($35), the fuel door hinge($12), and a power steering hose($80), it has only required scheduled maintenance over the past two years and 32000 miles. City/suburban fuel mileage averages 21 mpg while an 80 mph interstate cruise will ... Read More
You really need to get a second opinion from a good independent BMW tech. My wife's 1997 528iA work hack has 109,000 miles on it and, aside from a radiator cap-a whopping seven dollars, NONE of the items you mentioned have needed attention. As for the suspension, one tie rod end has been replaced. The autobox is also operating perfectly As a matter of fact, I service her sled by the ... Read More
The 1997 E39s suffered from the teething problems most new BMW platforms experience(by comparison, the 1992 E36s were a real nightmare). My 528iA has a 5/96 build date and had a few problems(water pump, thermostat, and the emissions air pump) all of which were covered by the BMW CPO warranty. In each case the part that failed was replaced with an improved part and the problem has not recurred. I later ... Read More
My wife uses a 109000 mile 1997 528iA as her commuter sled. Aside from a failed windshield washer motor($35), the fuel door hinge($12), and a power steering hose($80), it has only required scheduled maintenance over the past two years and 32000 miles. City/suburban fuel mileage averages 21 mpg while an 80 mph interstate cruise will net 28 mpg. In most cases, the best way to keep maintenance costs reasonable is to ... Read More
My wife's work sled is a 1997 528iA with 108k on the clock. In the past couple of years the only non-scheduled maintenance has consisted of a windshield washer pump($31), the fuel filler door hinge($12), and a couple of tail lamp bulbs($4). I wish that BMWs weren't so darned expensive to maintain-those repairs are killing me... :0
One point... Even if you buy it for the same price, you won't own that BMW for the price of a '99 Accord. At 168K miles, even if the parts weren't more expensive (and they are), the extra maintenance and repair of a car with 168K miles, will eat you alive.. You'd be better off spending $8K more for a '97 or '98 with low miles, in the long run. regards, ... Read More
thanks -- I stand corrected. It is, in fact, a 528i. Its at a BMW dealership. Is there any sort of a check list I should make sure they have taken care of or anything like that? It sounds like there are not any real known issues with this model....
Ummm, for starters, there is no such a thing as a 1997 525i (at least not in the USA). In 1997, there were only two models, a 528i and a 540i. The question is, which one are you looking at? Assuming that it is a 528i, and assuming average condition, average maintenance and average equipment (auto, sun roof, leather seats), $6,800 is probably a fair price, but no steal. Regarding what ... Read More
Although both designs are polarizing, the 7 does have a certain "presence" on the road. I'm even acclimating to the new 5, but as a 2003 530 SP owner, my biggest complaint is with the interior control interfaces. Seats are wonderful, it's screwed together nicely, but BMW has instilled a "coldness" and an impersonal nature to the interiors of both the 5 & 7 IMO. The 7 has the requisite luxury ... Read More
In my meager and limited experience(21 years of owning and maintaining most everything from a couple of 3.0S sedans, an M6 and an E39)ZF slushboxes have NEVER been particularly robust-fluid change or no fluid change. OTOH, the GM autoboxes have proven to be reasonably durable. My wife's 1997 528iA work hack has 104,000 miles on the clock and we have experienced no drivetrain failures. This matches the experience of most all ... Read More
sdg380... Think the issue isn't where BMW was in comparison to others but where it is today. Review after review of the E60 5 Series points out the ambivilence (sp?) of so many reviewers. The new 5 Series just doesn't stand out like the E39. It always has one or more issues with each reviewer: in areas like styling, price, electronic gadgety, iDrive, value, etc. That wasn't the case in 1997 ... Read More
If I remember correctly, the annual price increase of an existing BMW model is typically less than the inflation rate. For example, I think the price increase on my 2002 540i was a few hundred dollars more than the 2001 540i. Anyone remember the base price of the 540i for MY 1997? Curious to see the percentage increase from 1997 - 2003 for the E39. As a side note...I was next ... Read More
I take it that you are using the dealer for your service/repairs? No wonder you've spent over $4000. Are you using your CCA discount? My BMW independent shop performed the Inspection II on our 1997 528iA at 66476 miles and the cost was $441. That price also included front pads, one tie rod, an alignment, and a new fuel filter. I spent $963 over the next 31600 miles. I replaced the ... Read More