Used 2007 BMW 3 Series Sedan Consumer Reviews
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Plastic engine parts - really?
maxradin, 01/07/2015
2007 BMW 3 Series 328i 4dr Sedan (3.0L 6cyl 6M)
81 of 85 people found this review helpful
Just spent a bundle fixing an oil leak caused by a PLASTIC valve cover that cracked. This is apparently common for these models after 60K. Mine had 76K and was regularly serviced at the dealer. In my case, oil leaked onto the ignition coils, causing the engine to misfire. Unbelievable that the 'ultimate driving machine' uses plastic on a part that is subject to such heat.
I have owned 2 335i sedans
funnn25, 04/21/2012
2007 BMW 3 Series 335i 4dr Sedan (3.0L 6cyl Turbo 6M)
47 of 50 people found this review helpful
Fun and fast. However, water pump failed at 84kmi $1033 to fix. Thermostat broke at 80k $500 to fix. Door locks fixed under warranty. Turbo wastegates fixed under warranty. Camshaft sensor replaced $330 at dealership. Fuel pump defective and replaced at no charge due to recall. Tires can't be rotated with sport pkg so need new tires frequently. Michelin sport tires are the best tires, a little more expensive but worth it. Cupholder broken still havent fixed. Replace spark plugs every 45k mi and oil changes $150 every 15k miles.
Best car I've owned when things didn't break
Cj, 05/07/2016
2007 BMW 3 Series 335xi 4dr Sedan AWD (3.0L 6cyl Turbo 6M)
12 of 12 people found this review helpful
Fantastic car. Powerful. smooth. Expensive to repair when repairs come up. But generally awesome vehicle. Perfect size.. And handles amazingly.
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Nightmare
footdoc, 08/23/2010
2007 BMW 3 Series 328i 4dr Sedan (3.0L 6cyl 6M)
26 of 28 people found this review helpful
Since I purchased this car as certified pre-owned it has been back to the dealer for repairs 1/3 of the time. After multiple complaints to BMW-USA the dealer finally contacted me. Before that the dealer ignored me. I am still using a loaner car and the computer module must be replaced.
Going Downhill Fast
Torina, 01/04/2018
updated 01/13/2022
2007 BMW 3 Series 328xi 4dr Sedan AWD (3.0L 6cyl 6M)
16 of 17 people found this review helpful
When I first got in this BMW 328xi I was completely excited. It felt good and was tight. I finally was able to afford a car that was going to get me from point A to point B without continually having to work on it. It only had 112K and being a BMW its gotta have another 100K. Right? The first thing I noticed was that the breaks had a bad chatter, but at that mileage it was expected. So, I had them and the rotors replaced ($800). At 130K the AWD quit work and that also makes the cruise control not work. It ended up being a transfer module (of some sort) and was $1400 to fix. After that was fixed, the check engine light came back on. I took it back ($120 for scan) and they said that the catalytic converters needed replaced ($1800). I didn't replace them because they were just starting to go bad and they said they'd probably last another 10k. I soon started to smell an awful oil smell and it was from the gasket leaking in the oil filter housing ($400) Right after that, the cross (under) pipe for the coolant system got a crack in it ($228) and I had to have it towed back to the mechanic ($98). At 140K the car picked up an annoying surge and I knew that I had a misfire. So, when I took it in to have the airbag replaced (for a recall) , I had them scan the motor and they said that cylinder 6 coil was bad ($200 for coil, $120 for scan). Now I have that oil smell back again and BMW says that I have a valve cover leak ($900). I replaced the valve cover, gaskets and spark plugs and still have an oil smell and there is an engine surge. The scan codes say something about Bank1. It appears that there is something with the PCV or ventilation system. BMW tells me that the PCV is integrated within the valve cover. Well, that's not true. I found a crack in a vent hose on the back of the valve cover. BMW just sent out a recall for that part so I took it in to get replaced. I still smell oil but it doesn't appear that I am loosing any. At 185K it start to run rough and sounds like I officially have the nortorious knock. I don't know if it's in a lifter or what. After I start the motor, I have to give it a minute to do what I call a "burp" The initial RPM is around 1100-1200 but it will drop down to 700-800 and sound like its going to die, but something takes over (electronically) and the RPMs come back up. If I don't let it "burp" it will run like crap the entire time I drive it. Afterwards, it does okay. I now have 190K miles and find that if I let it sit for a couple days it drives better for a day.
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