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Buying Tips
How to Buy a Used Car
Step 4: Test-Driving a Used Car
By Philip Reed, Senior Consumer Advice Editor
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The moment has arrived to inspect and test-drive the car you are considering buying.
This is, of course, an essential part of the process. You need to weed out the
lemons and find the cream puffs. Here are some tips on how to do that.
When you evaluate used cars, keep in mind these two main considerations:
- Do you like the car? It could be a good car, but maybe you don't
like the color, the interior or the options. It might not have enough legroom
or headroom. You might decide you don't like the styling. But once you've
decided you like the car, then you need to ask:
- Is the car in mechanically sound condition?
In other words, you might find you like the car. But then you have to turn
off your emotional side and become rational. Ask yourself, will this car serve
you well in the long run? Or, in six months or so, will it begin to break down?
Faced with these questions, many people throw up their hands in despair and say,
"But I don't know anything about cars!" You can work around this by exploring
the following options.
Shop for a Certified Used Car
In recent years, the sale of certified used cars has become increasingly popular.
A certified used car is one that has passed a thorough inspection and is backed
by a manufacturer's warranty. Volkswagen, for example, subjects its cars to a
112-point inspection and then certifies the car with a two-year/24,000-mile limited
warranty (a roadside-assistance program is also included).
But while buying a certified used car removes a lot of the guesswork about the
vehicle's mechanical condition, you pay for this service. Certified used cars
that sell in the $10,000 to $20,000 range are estimated to be $500 to $1,000 more
expensive.
Look for Used Cars Still Under Warranty
Most new cars are sold with a three-year/36,000-mile warranty. Therefore, if you
buy a car that is from one to three years old, with less than 36,000 miles on
the odometer, it will still be under the factory warranty. If anything goes wrong
with the car you just bought, the problem will be fixed for free.
How can you use this to your advantage when used car shopping? If you look for
cars less than three years old, and with less than 36,000 miles (cars are typically
driven 12,000 miles a year), you can rely on the warranty. In other words, if
you don't take the car to a mechanic, and it breaks down, you can still get it
fixed for free under the factory warranty. (Warranties vary from one manufacturer
to the next. Always read the restrictions of the warranty before buying
the car.)
In some cases, the current owner may have purchased an aftermarket warranty. If
so, be sure to verify that the warranty can be transferred to your name when you
buy the car.
Take the Car to a Mechanic
If you are serious about buying a used car but have doubts about its condition,
take it to a mechanic you trust. A private party will probably allow you to do
this without much resistance. But at a dealership, it might be more difficult.
If you are considering a car that is more than five years old and has close to
100,000 miles on it, an inspection by a mechanic is basically a necessity. (This
should cost less than $100.) "On site" inspection services are also available
in some areas where a mechanic will inspect the car on a car lot or at a private
residence. However, if the car is newer, appears to be in great shape and drives
well, you might want to rely on the warranty. If it is a certified used car, there
is no reason to take it to a mechanic.
What can a mechanic find that you can't spot on your own? For one thing, the mechanic
will put the car up on a lift. Oil or fluid leaks are easier to spot. The mechanic
can also do a compression check that will sometimes uncover excessive engine wear.
And finally, the mechanic's expert eye might spot a problem you overlooked. Additionally,
mechanics have knowledge of which cars have chronic engine or transmission problems
and can steer you away from such vehicles.
You may want to inspect the car yourself before determining whether to pay a mechanic
to go over it. Here are some things to look for.
Inspecting a Used Car
Before you drive the car, walk around it for an overall visual inspection. Crouch
next to the front bumper and sight along the sides of the car. Make sure there
are no ripples in the door panels that might indicate it has been in an accident.
Also, look for uneven gaps between the doors and along the hood. Look underneath
for evidence of fluid leaks such as coolant (greenish), oil (black), transmission
fluid (pink) or gasoline (easily identified by the smell). If possible, examine
the car where it is normally parked; spots on the pavement make it easier to see
leaks.
Open all the doors and the trunk. Test all the lights, controls, heater, air conditioner
and the sound system. Open the hood and make sure there are no leaks or sprays
on the underside of the hood lining that would indicate a burst hose or fluid
leak. With the engine running, listen for noises that might indicate a mechanical
problem such as knocking, ticking, hissing or whining. Finally, check to see if
the tires all match and have enough tread left on them. Matching tires indicates
a level of conscientious care that is likely to extend to the entire vehicle.
Test-Driving Used Cars
Once you get behind the wheel, your first impression will be the way the car feels
when you sit in it. Is it a good fit? Does it offer enough headroom? Legroom?
Are the gauges and controls conveniently positioned?
Try to arrange your test-drive so that you start the engine when it is completely
cold. Ask the owner if it has been sitting overnight. Some cars are harder to
start when they are dead cold and, when doing so, will reveal chronic problems.
For example, blue or white smoke coming from the tail pipe can signal problems.
Unusual noises — which quickly disappear — might mean the timing belt
is severely worn and needs replacing.
Before hitting the road, adjust the seat and the mirrors. Ask yourself if it would
be a comfortable car to take on a long trip or drive every day on a grueling commute.
Turn off the radio before you begin driving — you want to hear the engine
and concentrate on the driving experience.
On the test drive, evaluate these specific points:
- Acceleration from a stop
- Visibility (Check for blind spots)
- Engine noise
- Passing acceleration (Does it downshift quickly and smoothly?)
- Hill-climbing power
- Braking
- Cornering
- Suspension (How does it ride?)
- Seat comfort and ergonomics
- Rattles and squeaks
- Interior controls
- Audio system (but don't test it while driving — you'll want to listen
to the engine)
- Cargo space
On the test drive, take your time and be sure to simulate the conditions of your
normal driving patterns. If you do a lot of highway driving, be sure to merge
and take the car up to 65 mph. If you go into the mountains, test the car on a
steep slope. You don't want to find out — after you've bought the car —
that it doesn't perform as needed.
After the test drive, ask the owner if you can see the service records and if
receipts are available. If so, note whether the car has had oil changes at regular
intervals (at every 5,000 to 7,500 miles). Be cautious of buying a car that has
had major repairs such as transmission rebuilds, valve jobs or engine overhauls.
If the car passes your inspection, and performs well on the test drive, you will
want to make an offer to buy it. We'll show you how to do this in the next step.
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